This problem has boggled me for a month now, and is extremely annoying not being able to roll down my damn window.

The car is a 93 Civic EX 2 door Coupe.

The problem is, I cannot do anything from the Driver switch. I cannot roll down the driver window, nor the passenger window at all. The thing that boggles me, is the passenger window rolls down just fine from the passenger switch. Absolutely no problems with the passenger window at the passenger switch.

What I have done thus far:

I have tested a new power window relay in the underdash fuse box, and still doesn't work. I have checked all fuses, and fuses are good. None blown at all.

I have also tested 2 different driver side switches, and same result comes in -- no response. I have also purchased a new window motor, and when I plug the driver side window motor into the driver harness, there is no response at all -- yet when the new window motor was plugged into another Civic EX, it works just fine.

So, I am thinking there is a break in the wire, but I have studied the Helms diagrams, as well as Haynes diagrams for hours, and I cannot track the damn problem down by using Continuity (Test) lights, nor an Analog Volt/Ohm meter.

Here are helms diagrams that I am looking at:







ANY help would be MUCH appreciated. This problem is annoying the hell out of me!

TIA.

 

Unplug the connector going into the front of the door and look for corroded terminals.

 

what he said, there was a factory service bulletin on that year of car that said the harness and connector at the drivers door jamb may collect water nad corrode the terminals. You can pull it abpart easily to check but may need some work to repair. Depending on how far gone it may be.

 

That sounds like the answer to me.. It happens to a bunch of cars..

 

Ok. thanks for the suggestion. I unplugged the connector and found 3 corroded terminals.

The wires that were corroded, is the power door locks (which I had a problem with this about a year ago, but have nailed the problem down and fixed it by wiring it myself to the fuse box), and the other 2 wires were the White/Yel wire, and the Blue/Blck wire.

To the helms diagrams, I'm assuming the White/Yel is the power to the master switch for the driver motor, but there is no White/Yel to the driver window motor.

As for the Blue/Blck wire, I believe that is the power to the passenger motor. So, what I did, is cut the 2 wires, and directly wired them together, as well as plug the harness back in from the door.

The result: nothing, infact, my passenger window from the passenger switch wasn't working anymore. So, I restored it back to the way it was, and the passenger window from the passenger switch continued to work, but I'm back from square one.



I am appauled and dry of ideas at this point.

 

Thanks guys, sounds like the issue. I pulled it apart and came across three corroded terminals.

What do you suggest for repair?

I was thinking a complete door harness, but those run about $125 at the junk yard, let alone from the Honda Dealership.

Any of you guys have suggestions for fixing this? I have a lot of wiring back ground, but for some reason this has me at a dead end. And getting a new harness at this point isn't in the ball park.......yet anyway. If it's wiring I know it can be worked around, or hardwired to work somehow to prove what the issue is.


Thanks for the replies thus far

 

THe repair in the service bulletin has you remove the door and replace the harness. If it were my car I would take that section of the door harness as far out as I could to get access to it. Back teh affected connentor ends out of the plug, chop and rewire with new terminal ends. Honda has a kit that has all the treminal ends available to the techs for such repairs. You might be able to get one of theguys at a dealership to give you a few if you brought one in and matched them up. I wish you luck in your repair.

 

Thanks for the service bulletin. I looked thru it, printed it out and brought it to the Honda dealership. They were seeing if they can do it under a warranty, but said it wasn't a recall, and the customer has to pay for it.

They quoted me $350 + the part (which is $90 for the repair kit)...

So, I gladly said, HAH, yea right. I'll be back to buy the $90 item and do it myself, or find another way of doing it.

Thanks for the help man

 

I honda-tech