crazy eyez killa

99 B16, 50k miles, had synthetic since 20k, always Mobil1

Can I go back to conventional? Should I go gradual, with a synthetic blend?


-A

Tad

why?
synthetics better,

I dont see any problem going to regular,
but who knows, maybe someone will come up with something,

only oil type change problems that I know of are oil leaks when you go from reg to synthetic,

and even then the leaks were there before, its just synthetic has detergents that cleaned em out

aznxphreak

Mineral based oils lubricate just as well as synthetics. Just that synthetics are less prone to viscosity breakdown. That's why they can last beyond 3K miles.

crazy eyez killa

I'm done with spending $30 a oil change to do it myself, and now my oil is dissappearing, probably seeping through my valve stem seals... any suggestions?

Tad

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KURRRWA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm done with spending $30 a oil change to do it myself, and now my oil is dissappearing, probably seeping through my valve stem seals... any suggestions?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

well regular oil is thicker, hehe, maybe it wont seep as easily.
just a thought

aznxphreak

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

well regular oil is thicker, hehe, maybe it wont seep as easily.
just a thought</TD></TR></TABLE>

Regular oil is not thicker at the same viscosity rating. 10w-30 synthetic, is just as thick as 10w-30 regular or else it would have the same viscosity rating.

I still question the value of synthetics. Changing your oil twice as frequently as synthetic, is not only still cheaper, but it will probably be more beneficial. You'll get clean new oil every 1500, and you don't have to worry about viscosity breakdown cause you're changing so frequently. Then again, it is troublesome...

crazy eyez killa

You're saying to change conventional every 1500?? I was going to do 3k like I have been

lothian110

I think he is saying basically you can change your conventional oil every 1500 miles for about the same cost (maybe less) then it would to change the synthetic every 3k... cleaner oil, no chance of viscosity break down... sounds like a plan.... u just gotta get out there and actually change it every 1500 miles... a slight pain in the ***... but not a bad idea

riceboy

its just fine to switch from synthetic to dino.

and as far as synthetics, everythig you need to know is in the thread titled "Mobil 1 SuperSyn" in the ITR forum, its probs archived by now.

XDEep

ya its fine to switch back, just make sure you use the same brand, which would be mobil1 driveclean. i made the same decision you did after i started burning more.

crazy eyez killa

What about Valvoline

Mike_C

what would be the reason to use the same brand?

XDEep

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JMU1337 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what would be the reason to use the same brand?</TD></TR></TABLE>

if you use a different brand, different additives might upset the current ones youre using.

nolimits

That's a Myth...different brands are fine.

XDEep

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nolimits &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That's a Myth...different brands are fine.</TD></TR></TABLE>

uh, so every brand uses the same additives? one chemical may not affect another chemical in a negative way? please back your claim.

That Dood

I use part syn right now. Heats up quicker. Use castrol if you beat on your motor or Valvoline if you drive it like a regular car.

nolimits

Back up my claim? I don't have any more evidence than all of the other speculations I constantly hear about oil and it's additives. I believe it's a myth. I have never seen an actual test result showing mixed oils causing issues. I've mixed brands, weights, syn&dino's, and have had many of those motors torn down...I have never had problems with excess wear or buildup from doing this. I wouldn't consider that solid evidence, but it's enough to convince me.

cstem

You can definitely go from synth to fossil oil. If you were changing your synthetic @ 3K while doing everyday driving, that may have been excessive. If you are beating her good then that's okay. I prefer Castrol GTX. I have run it in everything (cars, roadracing bikes, moo-x, lawnmowers) and NEVER had a single problem. Use a good Fram oil filter, change it religiously. Sythetic is more slippery than fossil and on high mileage motors can cause seepage or blowby. As far as staying witha certain brand when doing the switch- that is hilarious. When you run your oil (no matter what brand) it catches all kinds of contaminants from burnt and unburnt fuel and dust that is missed by your air filter (or that $30.00 cone filter from Pep Boys). This is the oil's job in addition to lubricating. Fuel additives can change from day to day from manufacturer to manufacturer, so in effect you can say you are changing the formulation of your oil. Has anyone's engine just blown the oil pan off, rusted solid while running or just turned into a pile of goo just from regualrly changed oil? Most likely not. Run whatever quality brand you like. And save that money for the honey's!

ejprimo

if you wanna use dino oil id suggest chevron supreme 10w-30. its the best bang for buck oil (about a $1 a qt. at costco) and many used oil analysis on bobistheoilguy.com can back up this claim.