Fuel pump relay problem
I have a 1990 civic DX with a d16y7. My fuel pump wouldn't crank and I had a spare relay laying around so i through it in and the car started right up. I assumed the old relay was bad. Well 18 hours later the exact same thing happened. I tested the continuity on both relays and they are good. I'm semi new to working on cars and this is my first Honda that I've had for two weeks. Not sure what I should check for next or if I should just replace fuel pump. Thanks for your time.
I'm 100% positive the relay is good. I'm just wondering what the next thing to check is. I'm a little lost I just a noob that needs a push in the right direction.
Ok. I'm trying to get a list of stuff to check so I can just keep going if something is good. If fuel pumps good is there something that would be likely to go wrong other than fuel pump? Tomorrow I'm going to spend all day on it. It's my daily driver so I really need to get it going again.
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Unplug the PGM-FI Main Relay and test the leads for power(s), sorry I do not have a wiring diagram for a 90 Civic, however, you should find 3 leads with power...
1- 12V+ constant, [hot at all times] yellow/white or white/yellow.
2- 12V+ switched, [hot in run and start] most likely a black/yellow.
3- 12V+ switched, [hot in start only] most likely a blue/white.
You must have all 3 powers above.
Check the black ground lead for continuity to ground, use a jumper, [paper clip works] to jump from the 12V+ constant, [yellow/white or white/yellow] to the fuel pump power lead, [yellow/black].
If the pump runs, plug the relay back in, hold it in your hand and turn on the ign. switch, you should hear/feel at least one "click", [fuel injector relay turning on] if you do, leave ign. on and use the paper clip to jump from the black ground lead to the ECU/ECM fuel pump relay control lead, [most likely a green/black lead] if you get a click and fuel pump runs, try starting the car.
If the engine starts and runs, turn ign. off, remove paper clip turn ign. on and test for power at IGP1 and IGP2 at the ECU/ECM. 94
1- 12V+ constant, [hot at all times] yellow/white or white/yellow.
2- 12V+ switched, [hot in run and start] most likely a black/yellow.
3- 12V+ switched, [hot in start only] most likely a blue/white.
You must have all 3 powers above.
Check the black ground lead for continuity to ground, use a jumper, [paper clip works] to jump from the 12V+ constant, [yellow/white or white/yellow] to the fuel pump power lead, [yellow/black].
If the pump runs, plug the relay back in, hold it in your hand and turn on the ign. switch, you should hear/feel at least one "click", [fuel injector relay turning on] if you do, leave ign. on and use the paper clip to jump from the black ground lead to the ECU/ECM fuel pump relay control lead, [most likely a green/black lead] if you get a click and fuel pump runs, try starting the car.
If the engine starts and runs, turn ign. off, remove paper clip turn ign. on and test for power at IGP1 and IGP2 at the ECU/ECM. 94
IGP1 and IGP2 are 12V input signals from the PGM-FI Main Relay, [fuel injector relay] to the ECU/ECM, almost always the same colored leads as the fuel injector power leads, both IGP1&2 must have power for ECU/ECM to supply the ground signal for the fuel pump relay. 94
Unplug the PGM-FI Main Relay and test the leads for power(s), sorry I do not have a wiring diagram for a 90 Civic, however, you should find 3 leads with power...
1- 12V+ constant, [hot at all times] yellow/white or white/yellow.
2- 12V+ switched, [hot in run and start] most likely a black/yellow.
3- 12V+ switched, [hot in start only] most likely a blue/white.
You must have all 3 powers above.
Check the black ground lead for continuity to ground, use a jumper, [paper clip works] to jump from the 12V+ constant, [yellow/white or white/yellow] to the fuel pump power lead, [yellow/black].
If the pump runs, plug the relay back in, hold it in your hand and turn on the ign. switch, you should hear/feel at least one "click", [fuel injector relay turning on] if you do, leave ign. on and use the paper clip to jump from the black ground lead to the ECU/ECM fuel pump relay control lead, [most likely a green/black lead] if you get a click and fuel pump runs, try starting the car.
If the engine starts and runs, turn ign. off, remove paper clip turn ign. on and test for power at IGP1 and IGP2 at the ECU/ECM. 94
1- 12V+ constant, [hot at all times] yellow/white or white/yellow.
2- 12V+ switched, [hot in run and start] most likely a black/yellow.
3- 12V+ switched, [hot in start only] most likely a blue/white.
You must have all 3 powers above.
Check the black ground lead for continuity to ground, use a jumper, [paper clip works] to jump from the 12V+ constant, [yellow/white or white/yellow] to the fuel pump power lead, [yellow/black].
If the pump runs, plug the relay back in, hold it in your hand and turn on the ign. switch, you should hear/feel at least one "click", [fuel injector relay turning on] if you do, leave ign. on and use the paper clip to jump from the black ground lead to the ECU/ECM fuel pump relay control lead, [most likely a green/black lead] if you get a click and fuel pump runs, try starting the car.
If the engine starts and runs, turn ign. off, remove paper clip turn ign. on and test for power at IGP1 and IGP2 at the ECU/ECM. 94
oh ok. im about to do all that now. I'll post back. Im kinda of a slow worker just cause im unsure about my work so it may take so time. Thanks.
Ok a possible problem is the blue and white that is supposed to get 12v on start is only getting 8.9v. Not sure if that would be it or not. I jumped wires and my fuel pump did kick on. I then jumped from ground to the black and green and the relay clicked in my hand then i herd a pop somewhere else so i stopped. I don't have blown fuses but it scared the crap out of me. I'm not too comfortable with electricity.
SO what should I do next. I also pulled the back seats up and there are four wires right there. 2 yellow and 2 balck. I'm assuming that 2 of the four go to the fuel pump. Both the black have continuity with the ground but the yellow does not get power when the key is turned. Doesnt make since to me since I jumped the fuel pump wire and the pump spun up.
The 8.9V on the blue/white is not the problem.
The "pop" is, it sounds like you have a blown fuse, retest all the fuses, both under dash and engine bay fuse box.
Fuel pump power lead should be yellow/green or yellow/black.
What color is the lead you jump power to at the PGM-FI Main Relay to get the pump to work?94
The "pop" is, it sounds like you have a blown fuse, retest all the fuses, both under dash and engine bay fuse box.
Fuel pump power lead should be yellow/green or yellow/black.
What color is the lead you jump power to at the PGM-FI Main Relay to get the pump to work?94
Ok. I am at work right now. I'll be home in 4-6 hours and I'll repost. Also I don't know if it matters but I should throw it out there. The guy that had it before me did a wire tuck so my battery is in back seat and the fuses that were in engine or under dash too. I've ran into other problems with stuff being wired wrong.
Check the black ground lead for continuity to ground, use a jumper, [paper clip works] to jump from the 12V+ constant, [yellow/white or white/yellow] to the fuel pump power lead, [yellow/black].
That is exactly what i did to get the pump to Work
That is exactly what i did to get the pump to Work
OK so update... My father in law told me to check and see if I had spark. I do not. I do have V going to my distributer. I do not have any spark coming from my coil. He said that the computer will not turn on the fuel pump unless there is spark. So he told me to change my distributer. Not sure if that is correct or not but thats what I just did.
If there is no spark, you can pull the coil and ICM, [igniter] from the coil and test them, replace what is needed, no need to replace the complete distreibutor assembly if all that is bad is the coil.
Did you test for power on IGP! and IGP2? 94
Did you test for power on IGP! and IGP2? 94
as far as the igp1 and igp2 I'm not sure what wires are what. The guy before me did a really confusing wire job... I'll try and post a pic so you know the wire situation
Im trying to find the igp1 and igp2 but I really can't. My wires change colors everytime the go through a conector or an adapter from the guy before me. I pulled my buddies distriputer off that is good and I still have no spark.
Ok going off this diagram... http://www.phearable.net/tech/wiring...schematics.gif both IGP1 and IGP2 are not getting any voltage. I am also curious as to why changing the relay worked for half a day. Both relays passed the continuity check found here... http://autorepair.about.com/od/engin...nrelay_tst.htm
So not realy sure where to go here. Thinking about shelling out the cash for a new ecu but not sure.
So not realy sure where to go here. Thinking about shelling out the cash for a new ecu but not sure.
Not really sure. What could I do to fix the harness. I don't know how it is supposed to look I bought it like this. Stupidest purchase ever...


