OBD1 D16, getting ready to turbo, so I swapped in some 550 cc injectors from the 220 cc factory. I carefully soldered all the matching clips (because it was not plug and play), being careful to match wires.
The clips came from a 90s Eclipse. Now car wont start, im guessing not getting any fuel.
Where should i start to troubleshoot...check continuity? voltage? resistance?
any chance these are the wrong clips? reverse polarity?
Just looking for some helpful advice.

 

OMG. These probably need a resistor box to run. Without it there's a good chance you fried your ECU. You can't just drop in bigger injectors like they're an intake or something. The engine has to be tuned for them.

I don't think you did enough research.

 

BTW. You don't "get ready" for turbo. You do it all at once or you don't do it.

 

ive got Hondata s300, so in the fuel compensation i swapped the values from 220 - 550, and kept the pressure the same.
FYI, i have been studying on my turbo setup for over a year, got most of the knowledge and parts i need. but first things first.
I know the new injectors are OBD1, or at least that is what i ordered.
Try not to jinx me and say i fried my ecu.

 

Agreed with the above. Pretty sure most if not all DSMs require resistor box.

It's an impedance difference and maybe even saturated vs unsaturated.

Cliff notes? Get a resistor box. Hopefully its not too late.

 

both injectors are high impedance.
the 220=12 ohms
the 550=13 ohms

 

can injector clips be wrong? maybe not connecting the pins?

 

Doubtful. When I got my 450s I got adapter clips and a proper resistor box.

 

If that's correct then double check your wiring.

 

the difference is you are OBD2
when i was OBD0, ineede the resistor box, when i converted to OBD1, I did away with the resistor box.

 

first get a noid light. hook it up the clips and see if you get power and ground. and those injectors use a resistor box

 

do you think that if i possibly got one or two wires mixed, it wont even try to start. i would think it would start, just run horribly. BTW, im not trying to be a smart ***, just thorough.

 

ok will do. TY
why do you say these injectors need a resistor box, they are for Honda, not DSM's

 

You can not wire an injector "backwards", they are not polarized.

The first thing I would check for is there power to the injectors when ign, switch is on and when cranking to start.

If there is, then next I would chect to make sure the fuel pump is running, do you hear it prime, [run for a few sec.] when you turn on the ign.?

If so, then I would check for ground pulse to injectors, a noid light is the best way to do that although and LED test light will also work. 94

 

Beat me to it.......

 

no power when the ignition is "on".
will try to crank it and check when i get another set of hands over here.
(hard to do by myself since its a standard)

 

If you do not have power at the injectors with ign. on, you already have a problem, you do not need to check to see if there is power when cranking to start.

You are going to have to drop the PGM-FI Main Relay to do some testing.

What is the MM&Y of the car?

First thing to do is unplug the PGM-FI Main Relay and test the plug for a 12V+ constant, [hot at all times] then turn on the ign. and test for a 2nd 12V+, [switched, ign. on] and then turn ign. key to start and test for the 3rd 12V+, [switched but only when cranking], if you unplug the starter lead from the starter motor, you will not have to worry about engine cranking while testing.

The PGM-FI Main Relay needs all three (3) of those powers, the 12V+ constant power lead is what supplies power to the injectors and IPG1 and IPG2 of the ECU/ECM, and power for the fuel pump relays coil.

The 12V+ switched, [ign. on] is what turns on the fuel injector relay and is also power for the fuel pump, [through fuel pump relay]. 94

 

Also make sure you have a ground for the relay otherwise the coil wont be induced and the tips wont close. Sending volage to your ecu inputs and injectors

 

noid light indicates good voltage when cranking, spark plugs gets spark.
i think the clips are not making contact.

 

engine is 95 d16z6.
car is a 91 civic hatch.

 

this is all i know so far
fuel injectors are not opening.
the clips are getting power,but not spraying.
they have been sitting in a box in bubble wrap on a shelf for a year in the garage.

could all 4 be seized or froze up? or do i need to add fuel pressure? (it is at 44 psi now)

 

44 PSI is OK, engine should run.

You have confirmed you have spark, "spark plugs gets spark".

You say you have power, [12V+] at each injector, "the clips are getting power".

You say you have pulse at the injectors. "noid light indicates good voltage when cranking" although a noid light will give you an indication of voltage it is not what it is for, it is to see if there is a pulse at the injector plug/connector, does the noid light blink, if so, you have both power, [from the PGM-FI Main Relay] and ground pulse, [from the ECU/ECM] a multimeter would tell you what the actual voltage is.

The injectors should have worked.

You must have the original injectors with the plugs with at least short pigtails, [a little wire], strip a little off the wire, unplug one of you injectors on the engine and plug the stripped wires of your old injectors, [that I assume worked] into the cars injector harness, hold the injector in your hand and have someone crank the engine, [or do a bypass jump, then only one person is needed], if you feel the injector "clicking" all the wiring is correct and relays, senors, solenoids are working, including the ECU/ECM.

The problem must be the injectors, maybe all four are seized, or you do need the resistor.

You could also just pull the fuel rail along with the injectors, leave the fuel line and injector plugs in place, crank the engine, is fuel "spraying", if not, mount one of your old injectors and connect it up, crank the engine, does it "spray" fuel, if so, it confirms everything up to the the injectors is working.

The problem musy be the injectors, [or you need the resistor, although I am pretty sure they would pulse anyway] if your old injector does not pulse and spray fuel then the noid test was not correct. 94

 

a little more investigating and am closer to figuring the problem.

What i did was remove the clips and send 12v power to the injector,
it clicked as did all of them.
next thing i did was to put the clip back on the injector, and send 12v power to the injector via probing the wires...
what i have concluded thus far is that polarity DOES matter.
probed it one way...nothing swapped probe position...VOILA! it magically worked.

I learned that the injector reacts like an electromagnet as it will open one way and close the other way depending on polarity.

I will inform you guys of the outcome after i resolder the 8 wires around.

 

theory was all wrong.
i checked all the wires and #4 was swapped around, looking at it from the front of the car, all the right hand side wires at the injectors measured 12.7 v and the ones on the left measured 11.6v. All except #4, which was vice versa. When i put 12 v to one wire, it purges the pump.. When i put 12v to the other, it activates the injector.

Any way, i reversed #4 clip wires and tried to start the engine. It would only turn over for one crank. tried about 3 times, same thing.

 

First, injector polarity should not matter, the injector is an electronic/mechanical solenoid, much like a relay, it is either open or closed, just like a relay, power and grounds can be reversed, either way the relay will close and an injector will open.

I know of no injector that would have a diode in line with the solenoid coil to polarize it, give it a pos.(+) and a neg.(-) terminal, there may be injectors that are polarized but not any I know of.

Sorry, I do not have wiring diagram for the 95 D16z6 engine harness, however the 12V+ lead to each injector is the same color, he "ground" for each injector is a different color.

Unplug the injectors and test for power, only the leads that are the same color should have 12V+ on them when ign. switch is on, [if you test the lead when still plugged into the injector both sides will show power, the one with the lower reading is the power through the injectors solenoid coil.

When unplugged the lead that is the same color is supplied 12V+ by the injector relay in the PGM-FI Main Relay, [ign. in run and start] the lead that is a differant color at each injector is the "ground" the ground pulse is supplied by the ECU/ECM.

Also your tread has become very confusing/unclear, so to clear some thing up, confirm some things...

1- Do you hear the fuel pump prime when you turn on the ign., yes or no?
2- Do you have power at the injector clips, wire that is the same color at all 4 injectors and when injector is unplugged?
3- Does noid light flash when cranking engine to start?
4- Have you unplugged the PGM-FI Main Relay and tested the leads in the plug like I suggested?
5-What are you using to test for powers and grounds?
6- What does, "It would only turn over for one crank" mean???
Does it mean engine turns over, [cranks] one revolution and then stops, or does it mean engine starts, [fires] and then stalls right away?
7-

Please tell me you did not connect 12V+ to an injectors ground lead, "When i put 12 v to one wire, it purges the pump.. When i put 12v to the other, it activates the injector" feeding 12V+ into an ECU/ECM ground output lead?

Putting 12V+ to an injectors power lead would "back-feed" power, [assuming it has no power] to the PGM-FI Main Relay and in turn to the fuel pump relays coil, if ECU/ECM was supplying a ground the fuel pump would prime.

Putting 12V+ to an ECU/ECM ground output lead is a nono and can, [and usually does] result in damage to the ECU/ECM.

In your situation I would probably start from scratch, starting with valve timing, confirm valve timing is correct.
Check and confirm you have good spark.
Check and confirm firing order is correct.
Check and confirm PGM-FI Main Relay has it's 3 powers and it's ground.
Check and confirm fuel pump primes when ign. is turned on.
Check and confirm batt. is at full charge.
Check and confirm your main power and ground connections are good.

Unless you confirm all the above are good and correct, trying to diagnose what the problem is will be very hard. 94

One last thing, 13 OHMs is a high impedance injector and does not require a resistor, installing one would severely limit injector operation, [not enough current to properly "open" the injector] on the other hand a low impedance injector. [2-3 OHMs] would need a resistor or injector would burn out or worse ECU/ECM injector drivers would burn out, too much current.