I have had an oil leak for awhile, so I have replaced the oilpan gasket and now I have a small drip coming from under the crank pulley, so Im going to change the front main seal on the oilpump. Well I have one problem...the crank pulley! My car is not at the shop so I dont have any air tools and I cant get the bolt loose. Im not going to do the screwdriver in the flywheel ****, so I want to use a chain wrench to hold the pulley still and then the socket rachet. Here's the thing, I cant find a chain wrench anywhere!!! All the places I go have and recommend those strap wrenches that have the rubber strap! For some reason I just dont think that'll work. Any thoughts????


Also Im using a GSR oilpan on my LS block, could this be why header doesn't clear the oilpan????

 

I doubt the rubber strap would do it by its self,but it might help.The gsr pan is about 1/2 to an inch thicker than the LS pan were the header goes under.
Glenn

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NJIN BUILDR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I doubt the rubber strap would do it by its self,but it might help.The gsr pan is about 1/2 to an inch thicker than the LS pan were the header goes under.
Glenn</TD></TR></TABLE>

Im just talking about using the strap to hold the pulley in place while I use a racket and 19mm soket to break the bolt loose. I went and bought a new seal today and said "**** it", and bought the strap to see if it works.

Have pics up soon on the oil pan

 

bump

 

why don't you try using the other tool that holds the crank in place, its 70 bux from honda, its a hex shape and fits inside the crank

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PrettyLude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why don't you try using the other tool that holds the crank in place, its 70 bux from honda, its a hex shape and fits inside the crank</TD></TR></TABLE>

one you get it from snap-on and not honda! And here in SAn Diego the mark up on it is insane. Try doubling the price you quoted. You can geta Moroso one for $70-80.

But why waste the money, I have access to the hobby shop on base I just dont want to tow my car to the base to do it(even though I have AAA). Its just too much of a pain in the ***! There are other methods of doing this.

 

The first time I saw one removed the kid took the jack handle,put it thru one of the holes in the wheel.Jammed it up against the bottom of the frame.Put it in gear and popped the bolt right off with a breaker bar.I've bought the Moroso tool,but he's done more than twenty timing belts his way.
Glenn

 

Remove your spark plugs and set any cylinder to BDC...Then stuff rope in that cylinder thru the spark plug hole, then rotate the engine and the rope will press against the combustion chamber and you can break loose the pulley bolt...Don't worry, you won't bend any valves...

 

i just jam the flywheel

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sunrise City Rider &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Remove your spark plugs and set any cylinder to BDC...Then stuff rope in that cylinder thru the spark plug hole, then rotate the engine and the rope will press against the combustion chamber and you can break loose the pulley bolt...Don't worry, you won't bend any valves...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Wouldn't you want to set the cylinder that is going to have the rope in it just prior to TDC on the compression stroke? That way as the piston is coming up, its pushing against the rope which is pushing against closed valves?? I don't know if I'd want my exhuast valves open when trying to do this....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sunrise City Rider &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Remove your spark plugs and set any cylinder to BDC...Then stuff rope in that cylinder thru the spark plug hole, then rotate the engine and the rope will press against the combustion chamber and you can break loose the pulley bolt...Don't worry, you won't bend any valves...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not a bad idea, thats how I changed my Valvesprings on my old motor!

I'll try these tonigt if the strap doesnt work. Thanx!

 

For the front main seal, do I have to remove the oil pump to change the seal? Also, do I need to put silcone on it before installing?

 

You should be able to change the seal without removing the pump.Don't use anything on the seal itself.If you take off the pump you will need to use sealant between it and the block when you reinstall it.Care you don't lose the crank key.
Glenn

 

I have the seal out now and the new one is ready to go in, but I have one question first.......


Do I need to use silicone or silicone spray on the seal before installing it?

 

The only thing I see the Helms suggesting is to put a light film of grease on the crank snout and the lips of the seal itself.

No mention of HondaBond or the like.

 

Like EE_Chris said just some oil or clean grease on the lip of the seal.
Glenn

 

Thats all I read in my manual too, but I figured it would be like a cam seal; use silicone to keep it from spinning.

 

how did you get the front main seal out? I am having trouble getting mine out.

Thanks

 

A small screwdriver works great in removing seals. I usually just put it inside the lip of the seal and pry it out. Works every time

 

I tried that for about 30 minutes and put screws into it and pulled it out by those. Worked like a charm. I just hope I have that new seal in correctly. if it isnt in perfectly even all around will it definitely leak?