whats the correct way to block off the FITV?? do u no if they make a block of kit?? or plate of some sort and also could i use them coolent lines for my turbo ??? ovesly its oil and liq cooled thanks for the help to everyone hondatech is great alot of people on here got some f**king knoledge!!!

 

Anyone???

 

just bypass the coolant from the side of the head to the back of the head with a hose
And you can put something in the holse of the FITV, I do this with doing thread in the hole and then put a bolt in it with silicon

 

Or, just get a soda can, cut out a piece from the can big enough to cover all three holes in the FITV. Also dont forget to make 3 holes for the bolts to go through. Then either get a little nipple adapter to connect the two coolant hoses or just get one long hose to do the job. Tried and tested, works like a charm

 

if u block the fitv off ur going to have a erratic idle, u dont have to run the coolant line to the turbo but if ur going to u can splice into the with 2 t fittings so u can still run the fitv

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostedh22lude1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if u block the fitv off ur going to have a erratic idle</TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't have any problems with my idle with the FIT valve completely removed. No starting or idle problems during the winter either -25c/-13f.

I used a piece of sheet metal.
1. Trace the shape of the valve onto it. mark the bolt holes.
2. Cut out the shape and drill out the holes.
3. Buy a roll of felpro gasket maker
4. Trace the steel plate onto the gasket material. Cut that out, punch out the bolt holes and bob's your uncle. No more FITV.

FITV coolant line bypass (This is how my lines are run 96 Accord)
1. Line from coolant tube on the back of the block goes to IACV,
2. Line goes from IACV under the throttle body and attaches to where the FITV line used to attach to the manifold.

These lines could be used to pass coolant threw to your turbo but I'm not 100% that they would flow enough. I'll leave that up to the FI guys to let you know for sure.


Modified by GhostAccord at 12:43 AM 1/26/2008

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GhostAccord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I don't have any problems with my idle with the FIT valve completely removed. No starting or idle problems during the winter either -25c/-13f.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I didn't know how it would respond to our weather, but now I can block off my FITV in my H2B

 

Yeah it works, you do have to keep one of the systems either the IACV or FITV if you want the car to start in our climate. With the FITV removed you will notice that the cold weather idle is at 1200 vs 1500-2000 w/FITV. That is the main goal of the FITV, to get a cold engine up to temp faster. If you have two feet and a heart beet on a cold morning you can keep your car @ 2000 RPM to warm it up faster. The average engine will actually be up to a driveable temperature within less than 5 min of running at any RPM. I usually never let my car sit and warm up any longer than that. Your coolant/interior heater will actually warm up faster with the higher RPM's of nornmal stop and go driving that is what the thermostat is for. 5 minutes on the road = 15 minutes @ idle.