so i took the gsr to emissions today

engine runs good accelerates and idles great no smoke etc

chk engine light was off


failed miserably and chk engine light was on by the end of the test

b16a2 stock with boltons and AEBS intake manifold
running a p30 ecu with knock board and chrome chip with p30 basemap

it was throwing a code for o2 sensor heater initially so i disabled it in crome
no codes were shown after

drove around for a bit before the test and put 2 bottles of isoheet in it since it sat for about 3 weeks with 3/4 tank of gas in it

looks like it has stock cat on it and it looked pretty clean

heres the emission sheet
it failed everywhere worse than my single cam civic with busted everything... even that thing passed 2 tests

theres no vaccuum leaks i checked everything
the fuel pressure is at 40 psi at idle
no stumbling or hesitation.
engine was just rebuilt with new seals and gaskets and clean valves reseated timing valve lash idle speed etc was all adjusted to oem specs by service manual.

i never checked o2 sensor tho

does this sound like a wiring problem or just o2 sensor? becasue with stock p30 unchipped ecu it was giving me a solid CEL
when i disabled the o2 heater in crome the cel went away

 

from my smog experience, you will fail because of your chip ecu. Remember these basemap that are provide for you isn't from the factory. Your fuel and timing will be off. I suggest maybe run the stock p30 ecu and fix the check engine light. Try to find the stock intake manifold and exhaust header (if you have after market header) that will help. Let go from there.

 

Umm yea thanks thats not really much help.
how much do you know about crome chips and how they work

I passed 4 cars with basemaps and boltons already with flying colors

theres something wrong with this engine or one of the sensors im asking if anyone has experience with the combination of the symptoms above.

my best guess would be o2 sensor but i wanted to see id theres anything else known to produce same effects.


From neptune it seemed like all sensors were working. And o2 sensor was showing voltage that seemed to be ok but it was throwing code for heater element.

Does that mean o2 sensor is dead even if it still shows voltage output?


Or is this a wiring problem since crome chipped ecu shows solid cel and p28 neptune ecu shows code 41 heater element. I know the p30 is 100% functional i plugged it in my other car to test and no codes


Code 41 only shows for o2 heater element so im guessing its an isolated code for that specific fault unlike code 43 for o2 sensor or fuel system.

 

Normally when it throws a code for heater element you replace the sensor and all is well. I'm guessing that since your results are so god awful the sensor itself is bad.

I"m guessing you already know to go Denso and not Bosch.

 

yep i already tried boschschshc

it passed emissions but engine ran like crap couldnt get uphill in 3rd gear and gas mileage sucked

switched to USED oem sensor and it got better

ill try that hopefully its as easy as that

 

ok tried again and almost passed. they did the tailpipe again *******

i found a p2t ecu for the b16
fixed the problem with o2 sensor
it was not throwing any codes when i drove it
except the cat and (eva) sensor lights flashing on obd2 scanner
what do those mean?

and then right after i failed the emissions again the code P0170 came back


the car had very low CO emissions
and passed the cruise HC

failed the idle HC by just few points


does that mean its running lean or ignition or timing problem?

 

what is EVA and CAT icons flashing on obd2 scanner how do i get rid of those.

i drove on the freeway idled for some time drove around town and they are still there

 

this guy was spot on, you should have listened to him.

with the p2t ecu, those are flashing because you either don't have a cat or you don't have a downstream (post-cat) o2 sensor, and (eva) means evap, for evaporative emissions controls system, which I'm assuming you also don't have. so by using that ecu which is looking for those things, you're going to fail every single time until: 1) you install those systems and get them to function properly, or 2) you go back to one of the other obd1 ecu's and GET IT TUNED PROPERLY.

quickest way would be to use the unchipped ecu and replace your o2 sensor (with an NTK (NGK) or denso sensor).
best way would be to use the chipped ecu, get it tuned properly, and replace the o2 sensor and keep the o2 active running it in closed loop especially for the emissions test.

P.S. if this car is 96+, I'm actually quite shocked they're even allowing a sniffer test. everywhere I've heard of, if the car is 96+ and their obd2 scanner doesn't communicate, they just say instant fail and send you on your way.

 

everything is there cat post cat sensor and all the evap stuff
I passed 4 times with chipped ecu snd basemaps and also passed with the engine in my sig
First timebi was running a p30 with basemap before i found the o2 heater issue it failed because o2 wasnt working at all

I also just found that my fuel pressure is not stock. Gonna fix that later


This car been fuxored with for years by self proclaimed mechanics every time i work on it i find more issues

 

those flashing cat and eva are monitors that are not set yet. You need to drive it more to set those monitors. Most likely a p0420 code will pop up if the cat monitor will not set. post the results and maybe i can help. I have a smog license.

 

hybridmiklo do you know if a same model different trims have different emission standards?


for example a 95 del sol with a d15b7 vs 95 del sol with a b16 or a 95 integra gsr?

i drove the car for about 10-15 min before test. about 5 min on the freeway and 10 min around town and they still didnt set.

what else can trigger the EVA blinker besides not being set?

 

ok update

changed thermostat cuz it was blown out
rerouted the evap solenoid to IM instead of the throttle body outlet(obd1 throttlebody)

reset the ecu again and drove for about 30 min and 40 miles cleared the cat blinker but the EVA is still blinking and scanner shows orange emissions light


wtf is up with this damn eva light
how do i get rid of it

 

They are a bitch to set in most vehicles,but if you only have that monitor not set,then youre good to go for smog.....

 

finally cleared. i took the car to work and on the way there it cleared and now its all good and green finally

that b16 torque doe crack vtec for 30 seconds and still going speed limit

 

well that was a waste of time. the tards at the station told me i will be able to do an obd2 test last time i was there
and now they are saing i have to keep doing tail pipe tests untill next time i take emissions.
again failed by much i dont know wtf is wrong with this **** its hella frustrating.


it just throws random codes out of the blue and then they never show up again

i was getting these codes randomly

P1163 Primary HO2S (No. 1) Circuit Slow Response
P0131 1 Primary HO2S Circuit Low Voltage (Sensor 1)
P0171 45 System Too Lean
P0172 45 System Too Rich

 

i dont know wtf happened between test 2 and test 3...
all i did was replace the thermostat after test 2
test2



test 3

 

damn this **** is never ending

every time theres more broken ****. why are people so ******* stupid and dont maintain their **** at all and then trying to be low life bitches and sell it as a good car.

so far everything i touch needs to be either fixed or replaced.

this is what you get when buying a car at night, i went against my own rules and i blame myslef for that, but the dude kept swearing he drove the car daily. how the faq qith all the problems im surprised it didnt catch on fire... he was full of ****

found a pinhole right before the O2 sensor in the header(header was cracked in 3 plases besides the hole)


compression is good in all 4 cylinders 215-220

but cyl 1-2 spark plugs look lean
cyl-3-4 look kinda rich.
or maybe i jsut suck at reading plugs

heres a picture if anyone can read them (this is at idle where it was failing)




then went and bought a itr style header and now is WTF im not sure which flange is incorrect header flange looks like original welds just some dude was messing around with welder on top of that.

so im guessing the tards also messed with the cat flange because its been cut and rewelded. im about to do something stupid and return some parts to sender(through his windshield) for wasting my time and money

 

first things first you had multiple codes for o2 sensor and fuel trim. The o2 sensor code is going to be causing the fuel trim issue.

I buy cars to fix and flip. With hondas every assclown thinks they are a mechanic and try to fix what isnt broken.

 

im switching back to p30 with neptune and wideband since they gonna keep doing the tailpipe test no sense in keeping the p2t especially with upgraded intake manifold and boltons i can at least street tune it

 

so i found more problems after that major fail

header had about 6 holes total and i fixed 4 of them first time...

replaced header replaced O2 sensor
checked timing. oil coolant leaks none
compression good
injectors are clicking
no codes and all sensors cleared with p2t ecu

i decided to plug in the neptune ecu and tune it. it needed alot more fuel in vtec than stock ecu could do and even part throttle was way off with the mods

tested again and almost passed

cruize HC was 240
and idle HC was 270
CO2 was way down

mostly failed because the colsed loop wasnt working right it was kinda slow to adjust

now after other problems are fixed i got more new problems

timing set at 16 degrees new plugs and wires are good, havent checked the coil yet

never threw a misfire code


i checked exhaust leaks-good
checked intake manifold leaks-good
idle is set according to service manual to 750rpm
i cleaned and tightened FITV and IACV

but

when starting the car has fluctuating idle only at around 1200-1000 rpm in the middle of warmup cycle and then goes away once fully warm and rpm drops to normal idle

in the middle of warmup cycle when i restart it sometimes sounds like its running on 3 cylinders and then runs normal and smooth idle like butter.
when fully warmed up i can feel vacuum pull through the fitv inlet

heres the thing with iacv disconnected in test mode
i can plug the iacv and fitv inlets and completely close the idle adjusting scres and engine will still idle...

i checked and rechecked for vacuum leaks and theres none from outside

and i also checked the evap box valve that seems to be working ok

can it be that its pulling too much crank vapors at idle because of wrong type of evap valve?

 

got some d16y8 injectors and soldered obd2 connectors back on

while replacing the current obd1 injectors i noticed they are all different
2 have green paint one has yellow and one white

2 of them say 4he6 one 4he7 and one 1go1
2 injectors were also missing the top inlet filters

what do those numbers mean anyway?

the 2 sets of y8 injectors all have identical numbers...

 

damn man that is quite the experience. I had a similar one getting my obd1 b18c to pass cali smog. I had numbers similar to your beginning ones. I did a bunch of stuff to make the car right as well. Here are some of the things I did (this was on a fresh rebuild as well).

When rebuilt I replaced the pcv valve and cap and rotor. Tested and still failed.

Replaced O2 sensor and still got the same numbers.

Replaced old ignition wires with stock wires
Replaced the air filter since I was using a crummy one with the stock air box.
Cleaned fuel injectors had 1 dripping one and improved their floe rates.

I tested with these and passed 2500rpm but failed idle.

symptoms were pointing to a tired cat now. Also cleaned the iacv and TB just incase, and replaced the cat and it ran really good, way below average numbers. (stock injectors and ecu)

My suggestion is you may want to replace the cat and see what that does.

 

i think it is the cat also. after i found the article explaining how to check the cat with the o2 sensor graphs it shows the signs of bad cat

the bad part is i passed with no cat before on LS motor with stock ecu boltons and old *** o2 sensor and ho knows what else
but this engine has great compression its all clean and checked and readjusted all to factory specs. and still wont pass... thats a problem somewhere..
maybe also IACV

or maybe the dumbasses messed with the distributor or some other sensors that i havent found yet

when i got the car the map sensor was held by one bolt

 

From what I have been told by some honda mechanics the LS ECU actually runs the car really clean. They told me to cheat my way through emissions by using and LS ECU in on my gsr. They didn't have an obd1 version so I went with my stock obd1 p72. The CAT was the final touch. Cleaning the IACV and TB wont hurt a bit and will help when the test drops back down to idle after the high rpm test assuming it is done the same way as in Cali.