If f series engines are coded like b series then the block will have letter/number codes stamped on it, and same for the crankshaft

 

There are letters and numbers like you say but I can't figure out what bearings I need... And would that be the problem? I have king bearings in there now. Like I said 2 engines both same problem

 

Frankly,it is impossible to say with out having been involved with the rebuild. Id say the likely culprit is your mains selections. They are color coded/numbered for a reason. You want a simple answer,try changing the oil filter and see what that does, a bad filter will have a greater detrimental effect on oil pressure than viscosity will. Try using a Honda filter.

Changing viscosity isnt going to fix the problem. Using too thick of an oil will eventually result in engine damage,particularly on cold starts,when the most engine wear occurs anyway.


No one here is going to have your answer because your problem is unique to your build. Youre gonna have to tear down and recheck your work.......

 

It's just kinda weird how this can happen on 2 engines and I didn't have a problem before and I have had probably 5 or 6 different filters on it different brands and I also have been inside it a few times Checking clearance and it's still within honda specs.. I was wondering if anyone would know if using standard king bearings would make the pressure drop instead of using the colored bearings. 2 engines low oil pressure same king brand bearings... I don't think there would be anything else I am missed checking.

 

Would that little difference in bearings cause this big of a pressure drop?

 

Does anyone have a chart to determine the colors I need?

 

I believe the answers are in the FSM

 

I looked in the fsm and can't find anything about it

 

Can't find anything about what?

All of your bearing clearances are indicated right on the block and crank of your engine. Honda engines are blue printed from the factory. If you are looking for bearing clearance info the colour codes and bearing thicknesses required are all listed in the free PDF shop manuals.

Sounds like it is a bearing issue. Considering you have two blocks running std King bearings and they are both having oil pressure issues.

 

I'm looking for the chart that shows the number and letter code to tell you the color you need. I know the numbers and letters on the block and crank

 

The b series color chart should be the same. Blues are the thickest, reds are the thinnest.

So just look up a b series bearing chart.

 

Can anyone confirm that? Those bearings are over $300 just want to make sure

 

Nobody?

 

I already told you the bearing chart is in the FSM. Section 7-8.



Starting to see why this build went sour....

 

No 5w20 will be going down in weight. Get some Mobile 1 15w50 Race proven oil.

 

Did you measure your clearance(s) when you put the rotational assembly together? How tight were they?


If you didn't measure, I would at the least consider that an option at this point before you do any damage to anything.

 

Ok I've built many engines in my life I'm not a ******* idiot like some of you so that'd enough of this **** all I do is ask for help this is how people get treated obviously you can't read so you probably have never built one. Probably never turned a wrench I will go elsewhere for help. And yes like I said I did measure clearance I'm not new at engines. Been doing this for years built many 800 hp engines

 

Just not honda

 

All I'm trying to find out is why honda will give a spec of 0008-0015 and be within spec and be lower than 7 psi at idle obviously you can't answer that. Good job at showing ignorance

 

Had a bunch of **** to offer, but, screw that.


Good luck with you problems that are obviously over your head




Nobody is going to help you with that attitude.


BTW, I have been ASE certified for almost two decades as an engine assembly specialist among other things. So don't give me that you don't know **** attitude.

These guys are offering solid advice, and you just don't want to hear it.

 

That makes perfect sense being that everything they have said has been everything I already SAID I have done. And you haven't given one bit of advice yet so don't talk stupid ****.

 

^^^^^
Lets not forget how this thread started-You asking for help with something you couldn't figure out on your own.




So lets try and play nice, hows that sound?







Did you actually measure the bearings before you put them in? I know they are marketed as a certain size, did you confirm that before assembling the motor? Have you verified your measurements on the crank and journals as well?


You mentioned the head being worked on, was any other machine work done?


Did you replace the oil pump? If not, have you replaced any of the seals?

Do you have balance shafts?

Did you clean the oil pickup tube? Have you inspected the tube? is the o-ring installed correctly on the pickup?

Where are you getting pressure readouts from on your gauges?

Are they reflecting the same pressure?

Have you driven the car?

If you have, what does the oil pressure do when you drive it?

You could send the oil off to be analyzed and that will tell you if there is friction in your rotational assembly. Most of the time anyways the test will show the signs of metal in the oil long before any damage has really been done.

I always turn the crank on an assembled short block with a torque wrench and consider anything over 30ft/lbs as too tight(force required to rotate an assembled lower end)


Did you do any testing of the sort?

Did you measure crankshaft endplay when the rotational assembly was put together?

What torque procedure did you follow when assembling the shortblock?



If you can confirm that your clearances were correct, your crankshaft endplay was within spec and the shortblock was torqued correctly, that helps rule a few things out.


I honestly get the impression that you did not measure everything, otherwise you would be 100% confident that your clearances were right.


In your first post you suggested otherwise. Machines all basically work the same. Honda's are among the best built. So, If its not working right its something you are doing wrong. No offense, I've been doing this a long time and its easy to overlook measuring something you bought that was assured to be correct (bearings).


Most of the time, they are not exactly perfect across the board but novice engine builders assume they are.

If you measured your crank diameter, journals and did the math it would be very simple to figure out what size(color) bearing you needed. It really isn't rocket science here. Buying the size you need and assuming that they are in fact the right size, well, thats a mistake that most engine builders make once.


Just because it should be the right thickness, doesn't mean it is.

 

I have already said I have measured everything with plastiguage and it was within specs per honda but the bearings I have are equal to honda green and my bearings were black and brown I believe.. I'm not around them now

 

New pump and seals when driving have about 45 idle about 7

 

Plastigauge has been proven time and again to be inaccurate when measuring something this precise. I'd never trust it, and no, you didn't measure anything then.

You'll need a good micrometer and dial bore gauge if you really want to assemble a shortblock the right way.


Hopefully it has nothing to do with this, but, what you are describing can be related to clearance issues.

Good luck