Anyone got any bright ideas as to how to fix this? Weld the key in maybe? Possibly just weld on the crank pulley? Timing belt and oil pump are approx 8k miles old, so the pulley shouldn't need to come off any time soon as far as I can see. Trying to get out of this for as little $ as possible. Bigger pic available here: Bigger Picture.
Kinda of hard to see, but one side of the keyway sheered off. Check out the bigger picture to see more clearly.

 

hrm.

I'd weld the key in it, but don't go crazy on the welding and weld too much.

 

Crank pulley bolt just came loose, and the pulley just rattled its way off as I was pulling into my driveway. Took the key and aprt of the keyway with it i guess.

 

That happened to my h22, and it bent the key hardcore...but the pulley was okay...

The break is on your crank pulley right? Just replace it...and the key

 

Nope, unfortunatley the crank is what's broken. Really don't wanna have to replace the crank if at all possible. (cuz that includes replacing bearings too )

 

Anyone ever welded the pulley to the crank before?

 

If it was mine: I'd get a new key and a new(used) pulley if it looked chewed up at all, and some jb weld. Then i'd torque the crank pulley bolt as tight as I could, and hope for the best.

 

As long is the pulley is on there, I shouldn't ahve a problem with anything but timing my car (when the time comes), right? I mean it's timed properly now so as long as I get the pulley on there it doesn't have to be lined up with the key, does it? I plan on putting a key back in there, but if the key came out and the pulley turned (in relation to the crank), would anything happen?

 

No, but if the pulley slips it's going to loosen the bolt.

 

Good point.

Time for lots of JB Weld and a new pulley/bolt/key.

EDIT: Just how strong is JB Weld? Everyone's suggested it, is it strong enough to hold?


[Modified by 94TealGSR, 6:33 PM 1/3/2003]

 

Put it back together with a new key. File any burrs down and run it. Older Honda motors rotate ccw, and that's on the right side of the keyway.

 

Correct me if I'm wrong, but if the key were going to move, would it not go towards the side that's broken?

 

I have rebuilt the end of a crank before(if you can call it that) The front crank seal would need to be replaced,but if you good with mig and have some equipment, you can make it work....the heat from the welder tends to burn out the seal.

Just remember, not too much heat, don't weld for toolong of spurts, clean metal...

 

hmm.. how would one know if the seal is messed up? Do you have to take the crank out to replace it? I imagine the outcome would be catastrophic if it wasn't replaced once it needed to be.

I'm leaning towards putting some JB weld on the bolt, and just tightening it down to spec (130ft/lbs i believe).

 

the same thing happened to my d15b7 and i used J . B. Weld dont laugh cause its still on there and it held for about 10 months now and I dont exactly drive easy. I hammered in an oversized key filled in the crack with jb weld and slapped on a new crank pulley and i was set

 

Cool, where did you get the oversized key?