Here is a link to how I modified the manifold to fit on my h22a. You might have to register on my site to see it, so I apologies if this is an inconveinience. (it is listed on the MSG board under how to's.) I am posting this so people can get Ideas on how to do this for themselves or to see if it is too much work and wait for the Skunk2 manifold to come out.

http://www.collectiveracing.ne...?t=10


Modified by 2point6 at 9:16 AM 8/16/2005

 

copy it in here. I want to see it, but too lazy to register.

 

There's appreciation for ya

 

Here it is:

****

This upgrade can be done several ways. It is not a difficult Install, but there is a lot more to make it work than just bolting it on. The steps I took here are just for suggestion and can be modified to fit different cars. Look closely at all of the pictures to get a better understanding of what was done. The pictures are not step by step, but are here just for reference. The following steps are what I took to make the manifold work on my 90 Accord Hybrid. Please note that I also use a Hondata intake manifold gasket, so some of the coolant lines to the IAC are deleted. I also HIGHLY recomend porting out the manifold to match the stock gasket. This will open the area up around the fuel injectors cosiderably. (not pictured) First, I bolted the Euro manifold flange to flange with the stock manifold. I then used a scribe to mark the area I intended to remove (arches). I carefully ground out the area to match the stock manifold. This took more time to do, but if you place the manifold on the head you can notch out smaller sections which will make istallation faster.



I also ground down the top of the flange to clear the oil passage on the head. Note the small holes above the port. These I drilled, tapped and locktited some set screws in place to plug them.




I then moved the vacuum port for the brake booster from the top to the rear of the IM. I tapped and plugged the old location.





I also plugged the port on the front of the IM.



In the following pictures, it shows that I reused the stock IAC. This was a little tricky to do and my pictures are somewhat vague, but if you look closely in some of the other pictures you can see where I used a thin piece of aluminum to "adapt" the IAC valve. For this I placed the aluminum plate on the manifold and from the inside I used an angle scribe to make the 2 ports. I then mached up my marks with the IAC and drilled 2 respective holes. placement for this can be tricky but a little experimentation will prove positive results. after making sure that the ports line up, I used Hondabond between the plate and the manifold to insure a good seal then I secured the IAC with 2 (10mm bolt head) bolts. The lower one I had to drill and tap into the IM. This was fairly easy. I also had to lengthen the wires for the IAC as well.











Here are some pictures of how I mounted the Fuel rail. Again these are just suggestions.

The rail I used was a stock 90 accord rail that was slightly modified. as well. The bracket for the fuel rail was made out of metric all thread, Aluminum tubing (used as a spacer) and 12mm square bar stock. On the bar stock, I drilled and tapped holes that lined up with the 2 outer bolt holes on the fuel rail. For the aluminum spacers, I placed the fuel injectors in place with the fuel rail. I had holes drilled in the bar stock whick allowed for some movement to get the right placement. I placed 12mm nuts (seen in the pictues) to secure the all thread, then I measured measured between the nut and the bar stock to get the right length for the aluminum spacers.







This is what the IM looks like with the fuel rail set in place. I chose not to use the AEM rail, because I use different fuel injectors.



The Pictures of the manifold on the car will be posted soon. The Intake air temp sensor will have to be from a late model CRV or Accord (1999+)

In my opinion, the manifold was a nice improvement over the stock set up in responsiveness and feel (butt dyno). It looks a lot cleaner as well, but the true test will be on the dyno to see if it was all worth while.



[Modified by YumVTEC, 10:05 PM 11/19/2002]

 

Gee, thanks YumVTEC. I didn't post it here for a reason.

 

There's no need to be snarky.

Some of us are already members of 8+ boards and rather than clogging boards up with useless memberships, we'd just like to see the link without going through the hassle

 

Umm... that's gratitude for ya. I was under the impression i was doing you a service as you were too lazy to post it here on another board.

 

I didn't post it here because of bandwidth. (due to the pictures) Thats all...

 

Don't worry, I'm hosting them...

 

2point6 can u tell me about ur 229hp 180tourq setup??? Those are very impressive numbers.

 

Search in the prelude forum, the thread is called "I love my engine"

 

You can look for the thread, or you can check out my site http://www.collectiveracing.net

 

explain to me the small holes drilled in the flange on the arches in a little more depth please

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by junbb1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">explain to me the small holes drilled in the flange on the arches in a little more depth please</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

pictures don't work,

 

That's because this thread is horrendously old.

 

I know, but I was hoping someone could post a more current write-up or something. I have the manifold laying my garage, but I'd like to read about it before I install it. And I'd also really like to know if there is any actual benefit to using it or not.

 

So you bought it without knowing if it actually had any benefit?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RotiEatter &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I know, but I was hoping someone could post a more current write-up or something. I have the manifold laying my garage, but I'd like to read about it before I install it. And I'd also really like to know if there is any actual benefit to using it or not. </TD></TR></TABLE>

here are some tips from my install.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=740328

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by importpower &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So you bought it without knowing if it actually had any benefit?</TD></TR></TABLE>

no *******, i got it for free

 

When Putting RC Injectors in the Euro R head, Buy 8 O-rings for the dipstick. They work perferct for sealing the injector to the intake manifold. I think you have to stack them 2 high, but I don't remember...

 

Well it looks like this thread starts with a dead link and continues with dead pictures, and the newer threads on this are not getting FAQed so I'll paste them here:

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1960750

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1970637

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by flyrod &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well it looks like this thread starts with a dead link and continues with dead pictures, and the newer threads on this are not getting FAQed so I'll paste them here:

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1960750

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1970637

</TD></TR></TABLE>


Yeah, ummmm........ one would kind of expect that to happen when bumping a five year old thread, wouldn't you agree?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slomofo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah, ummmm........ one would kind of expect that to happen when bumping a five year old thread, wouldn't you agree?</TD></TR></TABLE>

This thread is in the FAQ, which is why I am updating it. What are you contributing?

Anyway, here are a few pictures I found of modifications to an accord fuel rail for use with the Euro-R and a throttle cable bracket (from PirateMcFred):






Modified throttle body to fill gap at the flange:

 

Another thread from Rosko:

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1857171