UPDATE ON PAGE 2

I just finished installing an inline fuel pump. For a long time now I've been having this problem of the car's electrical system staying ON even when I turn the key to the OFF position. In the past I would just pull the neg. battery cable and it would shut off. I never had a problem with the motor staying on though; now I do. I turned the key OFF, the engine stayed ON. I pulled the neg. battery cable, of course the engine stayed running. So I ended up pulling the ECU fuse and it shut off. What could my issue be here? This is a full racecar that sees no street action. It has a built H22, its turboed, and the car is a 92 CX.


Modified by Mikey3000 at 8:33 PM 3/2/2007

 

Running any relays I presume?

 

yeah i'm running a relay for the pump.

 

Sounds like it is still being charged.

 

Yeah. I just need to know what happens when you turn the key off. Does it kill power to the ECU? My issue is, I just don't know where to start looking.

 

How is your relayed wired? Is the relay getting switched from a 12v or a constant?

 

the power to the relay comes from the wire that used to power the intank fuel pump. i just tapped into that wire so the pump turns on with the key in the 2 position.

 

You need a new ignition switch.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DonF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You need a new ignition switch.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Suuure.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mikey3000 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the power to the relay comes from the wire that used to power the intank fuel pump. i just tapped into that wire so the pump turns on with the key in the 2 position.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Post up your schematic for the relay. It sounds like instead of the switched power, you have a constant power to the relay keeping it charged even after the key has been turned off.

 

ok here it is. now that you say that about constant power, do you think its the wire straight to the pos. battery terminal?

 

Post that up with the terminal locations on the relay too. And what wire did you tap into for the fuel pump wire?

 

the 2 wires that go to the intank pump, one is ground, one is power, i tapped into the power wire. they are the 2 wires that go through the sheet metal cover on top of the fuel tank (inside the car).

you can see the diagram here near the bottom of the page: http://www.barrygrant.com/from...s.pdf

that is the relay i used and i hooked it up just like that diagram.

 

I forgot to ask your the first time but has this been happening even before the inline fuel pump install?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SlowReaction &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I forgot to ask your the first time but has this been happening even before the inline fuel pump install?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah, like it says in my 1st post the electrical system would stay on but the motor would usually shut off. now the motor is staying on. i would really like to fix this problem by its root cause so everything turns off like its supposed to.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mikey3000 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

yeah, like it says in my 1st post the electrical system would stay on but the motor would usually shut off. now the motor is staying on. i would really like to fix this problem by its root cause so everything turns off like its supposed to.</TD></TR></TABLE>

If the engine is still providing spark you need a new ignition electrical switch. If the motor is stumbling for a few seconds because your pump is still feeding it you have an wiring or relay issue. Test for voltage at the ignition switch harness on the acessory and ignition wires after the key has been removed. They are YELLOW and BLACK/Yellow Trace Both are heavy gauge wires located right in the steering column harness/ign harness. If you have voltage with the key removed your ign switch is trash. Let us know your findings

 

that sounds about right. i will check that.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Danny_EJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If the engine is still providing spark you need a new ignition electrical switch. If the motor is stumbling for a few seconds because your pump is still feeding it you have an wiring or relay issue. </TD></TR></TABLE>

it definately wasn't a stumble, it was running as if i didn't remove the key for a solid 2 minutes before i pulled the fuse.

 

i just thought of something....if the ignition switch is bad, would turning the key still start the car? it doesn't make sense for the switch to be bad if the car starts.

 

because the switch has numerous positions- the part where it connects the starter is a totally seperate contact on the switch - Test for voltage on the color wires I mentioned

 

alright i just tested my ignition switch. here's what i got:

With key in the ignition, white wire put out 12v
With key in #1 position, yellow wire put out 12v as well as white wire
With key in #2 position (fuel pump on), black/yellow put out 12v as well as the previous 2.
With key turned back to OFF position, black/yellow still at 12v.&lt;&lt; is that my answer?

 

the black / yellow is ignition wire and if there is 12v with the key off you have a bad ignition switch (electrical connector attached to the ignition key cyclinder)


WHITE is 12v constant. You should have read 12v on the b lack /yellow when the key is on and open circuit when the key is off

 

so the only way i can fix this is with a new ignition switch?

 

Ask blown90hatch. He seems to know.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DonF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ask blown90hatch. He seems to know. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I dunno. Have you followed the service manual to check the switch?

 

i didn't do it that way. i will do that tomorrow and let you know what i find. thanks for posting that.

 

alright, i just tested the ignition switch at the 2 harnesses for continuity like that diagram shows and all tests checked out OK. it seems like what is happening is; when the car actually gets started with the key, and is turned back to the #2 or #1 or off position, the ignition wires are staying charged with power. i do have some gauges tapped into the yellow (IG2) wire, do you think this might be screwing something up. another thought i have is that i grounded both my fuel pump and the relay for the fuel pump to the same ground. is that bad practice and could that have anything to do with this? on the other hand i've been having this problem BEFORE i hooked up this fuel system.