i just rebuilt my b16a and been having problem after problem with it. newest one is that is smokes pretty badly. the engine has plenty of power and runs really nice, only problem it smokes like a train. i've heard that the engine will probably smoke for a little while til the rings seat, is this true, and if so for how long will they smoke? i do believe that the engine is still out of time and it still needs tuned properly. would these factor the smoking somewhere? i'm in the process of getting a set of adjustable cam gears and plan on getting it tuned later this fall. any thoughts?

 

did you install the rings correctly?

 

pretty sure, i followed the instructions of the service manuel that i had, gapped them properly and used lube to press them into the block.

 

bump

 

It shouldn't be smoking a lot, just a little haze when you get on it hard. If it's a lot of blue smoke, or any white smoke, something might be wrong. If it's black, like it's running rich, you might be washing down the cylinder walls, and causing ring and piston damage.

 

i was planning on checking the compression today and hopefully find something out from that. i know that the compression should be higher, but how much higher with .25 over ctr pistons?

 

checked the compression today and everything seems ok from the rings side of things, i got 190-195 across all four cyclinders with no leaking off. i'm pretty happy with this but still have smoke. i was wondering if it could be a leak in my head gaskett, but there's no coolant in my oil or vice versa. i hope with the new cam gears and a nice tunning everything will work out.

 

still have smoke, haven't gotten it tunned yet , but i think the situation is worse than i thought. the car run great, no problems anywhere even has all the power i was hoping for after the rebuild. but the damn thing still smokes! i drive down the street and it's like i have my own smoke screen, sometimes blue, sometimes grayish white. could not having an ecu tunned for the higher compression pistons be causing this? HELP!

 

its not coolant isnt it?
did you do the cap of oil in the cyl. thing when doing the compression test?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sir2sol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">could not having an ecu tunned for the higher compression pistons be causing this?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Um, yes! What did you replace in the motor, what are you currently running?? Detonation due to not enough fuel or too much timing can cause the pistons to contact the cylinder walls and grind away the rings and pistons, amongst other things...

 

i replaced the old p30 pistons with new ctr overbore pistons. and of course i changed the piston rings and wrist pins as well. other than that the bottom end was pretty much assembled using oem replacement parts. i did have the head rebuilt earlier this year.

 

oh yea and when i did the compression test i didn't put oil in the cyclinder. i always thought that would give a false result?

 

190-195 isnt that good, I would think it should be 220+, you should try a leak down test

 

is it so much the numbers that are important for a compression check, or just the fact that the numbers are within say 15 psi either way?
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i just checked my compression numbers again with the car up to op. temp. and i got 215,215,225,215 respectively. so they did go up quite a bit.


Modified by sir2sol at 2:11 PM 9/19/2005

 

what kind of break in oil are you using?

 

valve seals?

 

i'm using pretty much the cheapest crap oil i could find in 5w30. i don't think it's valve seals because it doesn't do it at start up or idle, just when driving plus the head was rebuilt by a pro just this spring. one of my buddies followed me tonight and he said it looked and smelled as if maybe it was unburnt fuel, too light and whispy to be oil. also i just relized an important part of my rebuild that might be a bullet in the chamber, i'm using a oem replacemnt headgasket. could that cause any type of screw ups?

 

tech6023 said it,you need to do a leak down test.you should not have more that 15% leak down on each cylinder.it sounds like there is something wrong with your piston rings.did you have any machine work done on the block before you changed the pistons and ring's.please tell me you didnt install a block guard.

 

me myself i dont beleave in that whole thing about breaking rings in.if all of your dimension are corect than there shouldnt be anything to break in.

 

haven't had a chance to do a leakdown test yet. yes i did have a machine shop bore the cyclinder walls and i didn't install a block guard.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jonsswapshop &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you should not have more that 15% leak down on each cylinder</TD></TR></TABLE>

It better be a whole lot less than 15%...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by drdisco69 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It better be a whole lot less than 15%...</TD></TR></TABLE>

damn right skippie

the cap of oil is to see if #'s jump up dramatically; kinda rough estimate to see if rings are leaking.
as everyone is saying leakdown test will pinpoint whats going on...the rest is internet guessing..

 

you might be running rich.. but anyway do you have a chipped ecu.. it might be the cause.. cuz i have the same problem.. but only when i turn on my a.c. then thats when i spit out smoke..

 

i adjusted the timing on the distributor today and i noticed it affected the smoke a little and that was at like a degree's difference. i'm pretty sure that it is the fact that i've still got a lot of issues address with building this motor. i read a posting and i've pretty much got to upgrade everything to make things right. i'm pretty much going to have to upgrade my whole fuel system to feed these new pistons right. and an upgraded ecu of some type, probably going to go with hondata on this one. anyone think of anything else i might be overlooking?

 

The only fuel system upgrade you'll need is injectors, 310s should work, but 440s are cheap and easy to find from the DSM guys. The pump and fuel rail are good for way more power than us NA guys can hope for. As far as engine management: http://www.pgmfi.org