They have been so many different views on this. The article from Overboost says to just start the car and go easy on it for the 1st 1,000 miles but then Mototune says get it to operating temperature and just rip it. I have also seen articles such as ImportBuilders and they say just to warm it up to check for leaks then go straight to tuning, hardly a break in until you get it on the dyno (if available). i want to know how thw real people do it, the ones who might not have access to a dyno and just have their wideband O2 and the street. I'm asking this since I'm almost ready to fire my new setup up and want to do the best possible break in.

 

whichever way you chose, you will need to warm it up first PERIOD. I've done some h/w on this too and to me it makes more sense just to rip it. I've noticed people who do that have the smoke go away quicker too!

 

I'm just about to go with Mototune. It actually makes a lot of sense. It's an all motor engine, so it won't be under boost to reap extraneous lean or rich damages.

 

i drove 500 miles on mine to it easy then went to tune. now i beat on her like O.J. did to Nicole

 

ive only built 2 motors but i warm em up a bit, just lightly revvin them, get them on the road and rod the snot out of them. if the motors goin to fail its goin to fail whether u rip on it or baby it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by murtnabila &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">whichever way you chose, you will need to warm it up first PERIOD. I've done some h/w on this too and to me it makes more sense just to rip it. I've noticed people who do that have the smoke go away quicker too!</TD></TR></TABLE>

this is a good way to waste a motor build and have your motor not last...listen to the guys form import builders. if you do not have acess to a dyno use a a/f meter of some sort and play with a vafc or even a fuel regulator to at least set the correct a/f ratio to seat your rings...

 

I've been reading a lot of articles and everyone is saying to get it warmed up to temp then go out and drive it to about 5k RPM's and let it power brake itself so it puts a load on the rings and get's them to seat properly.

 

mototune's got my vote. i think i'll go with his method if i ever get around to building an engine.

 

You break in a daily driven car a little different then you would a race car. If want to drive it everywhere and have it last. Give it AT LEAST 500 miles before you go rippin the crap out of it. If you are building a race motor then really just break in the cams and then go tune it and let er rip.

 

ok, thanks.

 

Depending on the build, will determine an easy break in or not. If the oil clearances are tight or factory, IMO an easy 500-1000 mile break-in is needed. Typically a race engine is clearanced on the looser side of specs, so this requires little or no break in.


Modified by 2point6 at 12:57 PM 7/18/2004

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2point6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Depending on the build, will determine an easy break in or not. If the oil clearances are tight or factory, IMO an easy 500-1000 mile break-in is needed. Typically a race engine is clearanced on the loser side of specs, so this requires little or no break in.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thats nice thinking and all but the bearings isnt whats breaking in its the rings you should be concerned with.

I build honda motors all the time, I go with a mototune like approach. I go around the block and make sure everything sounds good, then I rip on it a few times and give is a cool down. I break motors in all motor with stock ecu and injectors even if they are to be turbo, that way you dont have a/f issues and wash cylinder walls. I also feel its not the best thing to have it warming up forever before your first drive. Set the timing check for leaks and get a load on the rings before its too late.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostn420 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Thats nice thinking and all but the bearings isnt whats breaking in its the rings you should be concerned with.

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So what would fail first? a ring... no. A bearing, yes.

 

Perhaps a bearing would fail first, if you did a poor engine build. I dont think that a damaged bearing right away is going to be caused by a poor engine break in something like that is caused by a poorly built engine. A bearing just doesnt need a break in period, either it has good clearnace or it doesnt. The rings on the other hand are very important during the break in period and I belive that what is whats being discussed.

Take for instance a engine that was built with out boreing the cylinder one size over to ensure straightness but was instead just honed and stock suze pistons and rings. Well if the cylinder walls arenet straight then the rings will never breakin in causeing a a failed ring before a bearing.

It seems that this person in concerned with how to break in his engine not what he may have done wrong with abearing.

 

Yea, my setup is all motor. 11.5:1 compression B20VTEC with pretty aggressive cams. The bearings aren't oo big of a worry, although I would like them to last. I just put all the factory colors back in and the crank was micropolished. The rings are also running a tighter clearance for the all motor purpose.