I'm new here and have been reading for a couple days and have found a bunch of information. The question I have is: On an LS/VTEC conversion, I don't need the vtec valve because I'm going to be running a Ferrea roller cam follower that only uses the center lobe. I assume I don't need the external oil line that is common on the conversion, the rocker should get its oil from the normal oil route in the block? I'll be running as if the vtec never gets activated since the valves will always run off the center (the only) lobe. The engine will be in a lakester built for Bonneville, run in a rear wheel drive mode. I'm almost done with the bell housing to mate it to a Borg Warner T-10 4 speed. The engine will be running reverse direction. (have that worked out - that was the easy part)

 

we just went through this this year. we run a block off plate on one of our cars, with no problems.

we blew compressed air through the head to see where the oil travels

 

You really do not have to anything as long as the oil hole is blocked in the head. You can run a block off plate for the VTEC selonid. Add another tennsioner for the belt when running clockwise, also grind the little separator in the block where the water pump goes. You are obviously going dry-sump.

 

I've got most of the dry sump pan worked out, similar to the Moroso pan but reversed for the opposite rotation. I have an Avaid 3 stage pump that they just went through and o-ringed the body. I'm also going with a crank trigger feeding an MSD system. The distributor will just be used for the spark plug wires.
I wasn't sure if I was missing anything with the oil, I haven't gotten to figure out the little paths that are in that head yet. Just wanted to make sure I don't starve the rocker shaft by doing something stupid. As far as the water, I'll be running a block-off plate there also and run an external water pump. It will allow a little better control and less to run off the timing belt. I will have to put a tensioner on the other side, but haven't gotten to that part yet.

 

wouldn't leaving that oil supply line hooked up feed more oil to the head though?

seems like if its already there, why take it off?

and if the solenoid isn't there/isn't actuating, then the oil just flows to the head more

i've not tested this and its pretty much just rattling around in the old noggin, but i don't see why it would be an issue to leave it

 

We added another tennsioner along with the stock one. Bear wit me and I will try to discribe it. We added a stud to the plug in the center of the head, below the cam gears. Made a spacer and used a Mitsubisi adjustable belt tennsioner. The belt came from the intake cam, to just the outside of the water pump, to the crank, went approx. 200 degrees arond the crank, up to the stock tenn., kept going straight up the block to the new tenn, and then over to the EX cam gear. it gave approx 180 degrees of belt on the EX cam. Plus we could use stock belts. Your firing order will change to 1-2-4-3 unless you are getting custom billets made for the cams. If you are using current made cams the Keyways will be approx. 120 degrees different, both pointing to the plug in the center of the head. Remenber to gut the oil pump and block the passage in the block. I have access to m22x 10 or m22x12 fitting to replace the oil filter.

 

jlude90 - The line is not there, I thought that line just feeds the Vtec valve, not the rest of the head.

Don - I'm thinking since I won't have the water pump in place, I'd put the tensioner on the other side and leave the side the tensioner was originally on clean so nothing on that side will cause any timing changes if it were to move. The engine doesn't have one on it now, so it's just as easy to engineer it without the stock one.

As far as the oil, does the line that has to be added when doing an ls/vtec conversion feed anything other than the vtec valve?

 

No, the line goes directly to the selonoid, and flls the rocker shafts to move the VTEC pins. The cams get there oil in the middle of the head after the block restrictor.

 

Don, that's what I thought. There is oil supplied to the rocker shafts for lube separate from the vtec activation?

 

Yes.

 

to get the engine to spin is reverse direction do you have to use a different water pump with the impeller reversed or something? and will the oil pump still pump oil efficiently in reverse direction?

just curious about those 2 issues since its not a very common setup.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by non-VTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">to get the engine to spin is reverse direction do you have to use a different water pump with the impeller reversed or something? and will the oil pump still pump oil efficiently in reverse direction?

just curious about those 2 issues since its not a very common setup.</TD></TR></TABLE> Read above. DRY SUMP, gut the stock oil pump. Mugen did make a reverse water pump impeller. You can modify the water system to get a stock one to work, but it is 25% less efficient.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DonF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Read above. DRY SUMP,</TD></TR></TABLE>

my bad i should have read the whole post........cool stuff

 

One otherthing that has to be done is have the crank polished in the other direction. When it is polished it causes microscopic "changes" (for lackof a better word) and they should be in the direction of rotation. It will work without repolishing, but it is better for the bearings. Minor stuff.....

 

Are there any issues with the oil seals with reverse rotation.I know with the chevy and chrysler engines I have done the seals are directional.I have always used different seals with reverse direction (mostly marine) on these engines.

 

We did polish the cranks "clockwise" not sure it was necessary. The seals were never a problem, especially with the dry-sump.