yes, you can change the crank and rods to change your R/S ratio, but that brings me back to my first question... WHY NOY JUST GET A GSR/ITR BLOCK?!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dcb16 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes, you can change the crank and rods to change your R/S ratio, but that brings me back to my first question... WHY NOY JUST GET A GSR/ITR BLOCK?! </TD></TR></TABLE>

i dunno, its been mentioned and he said no...i dunno either

 

the h22 being a heavy motor is bullshit. When you factor in many people have a lighter header, hood, no ac or ps and possibly a smaller battery it does'nt weigh anymore in the front than stock

 

Why not get a machine shop to build you a vtec pin long enough to connect all 3 rockers together.. Then youll have vtec all the time with no oil pressure.. You can also then remove your lma's..

 

well the weight diffence between b and d series is very noticeable if uve ever handled both out of a car ie: carried one. an h2 is even bigger than a b series so im sure even without all the extra bs its still gonna weigh at least an extra 50lbs over a b series, and then if ur talkin about a civic that comes with a 1.6 or 1.5 d then theres a pretty great difference

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tgreaves &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why not get a machine shop to build you a vtec pin long enough to connect all 3 rockers together.. Then youll have vtec all the time with no oil pressure.. You can also then remove your lma's..</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah thanks buddy good idea.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM96SpecCTR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well the weight diffence between b and d series is very noticeable if uve ever handled both out of a car ie: carried one. an h2 is even bigger than a b series so im sure even without all the extra bs its still gonna weigh at least an extra 50lbs over a b series, and then if ur talkin about a civic that comes with a 1.6 or 1.5 d then theres a pretty great difference
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So are you saying that it would or would not affect the handling of the car probably not by much but i already own 2 ls motors and 1 gsr motor,and i think im going to use what i have,h22 wuld be nice though maybe another build.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM96SpecCTR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i dunno, its been mentioned and he said no...i dunno either</TD></TR></TABLE><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dcb16 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes, you can change the crank and rods to change your R/S ratio, but that brings me back to my first question... WHY NOY JUST GET A GSR/ITR BLOCK?! </TD></TR></TABLE>

This brings me back to were i said im replacing all my internals so ANY r/s ratio will be obtainable, correct????????? What im asking is, is there a better r/s ratio for a boosted app. for higher revs, to match my valve train setup?What does it matter between the LS, GSR/ITR blocks which r/s ratio you use i have one of each pal and all of the stock GSR/LS internals are going to be removed and replaced with quality forged pieces.So now ill ask again
[QUOTE=cxVtecC1]I figured that the r/s ratio was determined by rod/crank length an size,(options) so it should be possible to build a better r/s ratio that will allow me to rev higher and boost,(better than GSR/ITR)but why does the actuall block itself matter?isn't the r/s ratio determined by the above?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cxVtecC1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
This brings me back to were i said im replacing all my internals so ANY r/s ratio will be obtainable, correct????????? What im asking is, is there a better r/s ratio for a boosted app. for higher revs, to match my valve train setup?What does it matter between the LS, GSR/ITR blocks which r/s ratio you use i have one of each pal and all of the stock GSR/LS internals are going to be removed and replaced with quality forged pieces.So now ill ask again
[QUOTE=cxVtecC1]I figured that the r/s ratio was determined by rod/crank length an size,(options) so it should be possible to build a better r/s ratio that will allow me to rev higher and boost,(better than GSR/ITR)but why does the actuall block itself matter?isn't the r/s ratio determined by the above?


</TD></TR></TABLE>

well a gsr block will be better since u are using a vtec head anyway. the block is set up for vtec already, and with the oil squirters for the pistons. thats why a gsr block would be better

 

thank you thats all that needed to be said so even with no vtec the oil squirters will still work?
and will oil pressure be an issue not running the vtec mechanisms,Does the vtec solenoid being gone effect oil pressure or will that part still be needed for function, if it does how can it be corrected?or will it be ok throughout the rpm's.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cxVtecC1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thank you thats all that needed to be said so even with no vtec the oil squirters will still work?
and will oil pressure be an issue not running the vtec mechanisms,Does the vtec solenoid being gone effect oil pressure or will that part still be needed for function, if it does how can it be corrected?or will it be ok throughout the rpm's.</TD></TR></TABLE>


umm the vtec solenoid needs to be there for wiring reasons if you are using a vtec ecu and not to mention that with it not on the motor u will have oil shooting out from where it goes. as for your other questions, i dont know. u will have to get a new valvetrain setup or custom cams or something along those lines

this thread is making my head hurt

 

yeah thats kinda what i thought about the peice not being there, but didnt know if there was something that would take the place of that,with that part there but not in use which plug gets removed off the vtec solenoid,And what are its other functions if any on the other clip.Anyone with good bottom end building knowledge?I could use the stock r/s ratio but is there a better combination?I want my bottom end to match my high end setup so it wont be struggs to keep up,I know it will be strong enough but im talking about engine speed,and that is were my rod ratio comes in correct?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by egsleepercivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">would it be possible to hard wire the vtec solenoid so that vtec would always be engaged or control it with the ecu??</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well you couldnt have it on all the time since there isnt enought oil pressure at really low rpms to keep the vtec pins engauged..

 

to keep vtec on all the time you could also use 2 of the long rocker cyl. and machine 1 a little


Modified by mmuller at 11:38 PM 12/7/2004

 

Youll get an uneven load then.. All 3 of the rockers need to be locked together..

 

dude you seriously should do some reading of the previous threads THERE WILL BE NO VTEC TO TURN ON/OFF so i dont think that oil pressure is going to be an issue because if the only thing that oil pressure affects is the switch from on to off for vtec it wont matter because there wont be vtec i really think your missing the point from this and your previous thread, of what im trying to do. and adding a pin (weight) to the vtec mechanism to hold them together,makes no sense since im replacing for a rocker follower setup to Lighten the valvetrain of moving components.So thanks for all the professional advice.lol

 

The one guy that I replied to asked if there was a way to rig the vtec noid to be on all the time.. Thats why I said that there wouldnt be enought oil pressure to work correctly..

And I did read a few post up and I saw posts that people were telling you how to get rid of it without the elimation setup.. I was actually trying to help you out by giving you some ideas of ways to try it without spending the money for the kit..

 

And i thank you for your help and sorry now i see what you meant about relplying to the other kid my bad,Any of these other setups mentioned would feasibly work but work correctly,? maybe.You said yourself there would be insufficient oil pressure to activate vtec at a low rpm, and i agree with you there but im not just trying to be rolling on the secondary lobe constantly, its more to gain x amount of hp from a lighter spinning valvtrain and more efficient head design thats why i chose to go with the gsr head and not the ls.Some might say im spending wasted money but you have to admit there isnt alot of this setup out there,and im kinda new to the game so why not try something new?Ive got a daily driver so i wont be dependant on the car.I dont want to hack any of this car together so thats why im getting help from reputable companies, such as ferrea,this setup will be sick,and different at least where i come from anyway

 

Aside from the lighter rockers and all that.. Wouldnt it also work good if you removed the vtec rocker and lma's and just put a spacer to keep the "low cam" rockers where they are and get a custom ground cam to push the "low cam" rockers on the profile that you want.. Basically instead of the vtec lobe on the cam pushing the vtec rocker which it connected to the "low cam" rockers pushing the valves, just have the "low cam" rockers push the valves like it does when you not in vtec except the cam would be setup so that the "low cam lobes" are acually vtec lobes..

 

yes that makes sense but how much does a custom cam grind cost would something like that be very expensive?and what exactly does ima stand for,also the ferrea kit seems reliable and seems to be almost the same as what your saying to do except that the ferrea kit would add lightness to the mix and have a better end product ie: more hp higher revs longer powerband.

 

lma is the lost motion assembly..

 

mind explaining the lma's role with vtec?


Modified by cxVtecC1 at 12:47 PM 12/7/2004

 

well, here is a brief desciption of vtec.

vtec is activated through oil pressure(as im sure you already know). so your computer has the vtec selenoid closed from xRPM-xRPM. When you reach yRPM , the vtec selenoid is activated (by the ecu) and this sends the oil though the oil passage to the pins in the LMA's and then locks the LMA's together. Now the Vtec rockers on the LMA's are touching the vtec lobes on camshaft. Thus allowing the larger lift/duration lobes open the valves allowing more air and fuel into the cylinder.
this is the almight VTAAAAAAAAAAAK haha

 

thanks tied that up good answer