Does anyone have any experience with this crank trigger? I would rather use a couple of teeth on my crank trigger than the 60-2 setup but it looks like a nice piece and Im having a hard time finding someone to machine this for me. My main concern is having it machined accurately so nothing is out of balance. The original goal was to mount it to a Fluidampr crank pulley since we need to buy a crank pulley anyways. The Electromotive kit is a trigger and pulley in one, so I kill two birds with one stone. However, I have been told time and time again to avoid using crank pulleys such as the UR pieces since they do not adequately balance out the engine. The Electromotive kit is built with help from UR. I understand that what Ive been told may or may not be 100% accurate, but I am still concerned since it does make sense.

If anyone has any input or experience here I would appreciate it, thanks

-bill

 

All I know is that crank trigger is a touchy bastard. We are using one on our (WMU) FSAE car a Suzkuki GSXR-600. The wheel has runout of about .006" and its enough to not work at all. Can't even get the car started with it yet, we have to remachine a custom piece that bolts into the end of the crank. I believe it was a 60-2 wheel as well.

 

wouldnt the setup on a GSXR be a little different than the B series? Anyone else have any experience? Im more or less just concerned with the balancing of the UR pulley

-bill

 

Yes I'm sure the setup would be different. There is an unending debate over aftermarket crank pullies... some people say that since the UR doesnt have a balancer it is bad for the motor... well honda make the CTR N1 pulley which is solid as well... and plenty of high revving, high abuse motors are using that one.. Personally I believe its a bunch of crap, but if the entire rotating assy is balanced with the pulley its definetly going to be fine.

 

I was thinking about using an Electromotive crank trigger wheel with an ATI Race Super Damper on our AEM EMS.

I sent the tech dept an e-mail and this is the responese I received on January 12, 2008.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Our race only style B-series damper has a provision for the alternator drive only and also has 3 bolt Chevy pulley bolt pattern. So you can bolt a trigger wheel to the face of the damper or we can make a custom 60-2 trigger shell for the damper which would start somewhere around $700. Thank you.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The biggest issue with mounting the crank trigger wheel to the crank is that it might interfere with the frame rail and if the frame rail was relieved, it may be too far into the wheel well.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sackdz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yes I'm sure the setup would be different. There is an unending debate over aftermarket crank pullies... some people say that since the UR doesnt have a balancer it is bad for the motor... well honda make the CTR N1 pulley which is solid as well... and plenty of high revving, high abuse motors are using that one.. Personally I believe its a bunch of crap, but if the entire rotating assy is balanced with the pulley its definetly going to be fine.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Kind of closed minded for someone building a SAE project.Balance is not the issue,it's harmonic damping that is the issue with a solid pulley.