I'm getting 3.5 on red green wire. When I test yellow/black instead of getting 12.21 battery voltage I only get 12.04 while I tested alternator and iacv and got battery voltage of 12.21. I don't get while I only get 12.04 and not the full 12.21. Also, when I turn headlights to one position, which I believe is parkling lights only I only get 2.10 or so on signal red/green. When I put headlights on I get 1.20.

Can someone translate these readings. I want to think my ELD is bad, but I don't understand why I'm only getting 3.5. I believe this should be reference voltage which for my map and tps is about 5 or so.

 

It would appear that my ELD is probably working correctly.

http://www.import-car.com/issue/arti...ontentid=81616

When I tested the signal wire, I tested it with the connector connected. This is probably why I got 3.5 instead of 5 reference volts. My 1.20 volts would appear to be correct as well. The only thing about it is that my system appears to work opposite of the way it's supposed to.

When I start the car the car appears to charge as it sits at 14.5 volts fairly constantly. When I add loads, it slowly goes down instead of up. I feel like my alternator isn't up to the task, but it's not completely going out yet since I need to put everything on for it to get down to around 12.25 or so, but it shouldn't be getting down below 13.5 at the lowest, with everything on.

What I also would like to know is why I'm not getting full battery voltage at the yellow/black wire, but now that I think of it that was with the connector connected so maybe something beyond it is bringing the voltage down. I will test tomorrow.

That article would appear to suggest that all you need to do is disconnect the signal from the ecu to the alternator to disable the ELD system and make the alternator work as most cars do, with no ELD type of system. I don't think most people have done that, I've read a lot about people using resistors.