Thank you, I think any distributor will work 92-95 non-vtec. The vtec seem to be marketed seperately.

 

I think the VTEC & non-VTEC distributors (for the same years) only differed in the position of their mounting tabs. If you borrow one just for troubleshooting, a VTEC distributor will be missing one tab for a mounting screw, or something like that.

 

Thankyou. It shouldnt be very hard to find a non-vtec somewhere anyways.

 

your problem is a faulty TW sensor

 

how much should i expect to pay for a new main relay? also, what other hondas/acuras are interchangable with them?
i have a 95 civic ex. throwing code 16, i think it may be this

 

Code 16 is 'fuel injector' for whatever that's worth...

I think (without actually looking at a circuit drawing) your injectors are powered from the main relay, at the same terminal that powers the ECU itself. So if it were the main relay's fault, your ECU wouldn't run either.

Check wiring out to the injectors. Each injector has a power wire (yellow/black?) that should have battery voltage all the time. If that's good, your main relay is doing it's job.

The other wire on each injector goes to the ECU. The ECU closes that wire to ground when it wants to fire the injector. Look for loose/dirty/corroded connections or broken wires.

 

try opening up the relay and look at the solder joints closely,if there are cracks heat of the day will cause solder joints to expand not allowing contact.Common problem i see at work alot.You can even crank the car while tapping main relay with wrench if it starts you got a bad relay.

 

the TW senso is located on the trans end of the cyl head , it has a 2 wire round plug, the sensor can be either black or white. it will cause a hot eng no start condition. the main relay everybody talks about will usually only fial when the inside(cabin area ) in hot. hope this helps

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondatech58 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the TW senso is located on the trans end of the cyl head , it has a 2 wire round plug, the sensor can be either black or white. it will cause a hot eng no start condition. the main relay everybody talks about will usually only fial when the inside(cabin area ) in hot. hope this helps</TD></TR></TABLE>

thank you, i will look into that as well because that seems more reasonable than the main relay since i aim getting spark and fuel.

 

I was just about to suggest the ECT as well.

Cold start injector PW is on the order of 60-70ms (not that I've scoped this, but I do have some literature stating these #'s). When the engine is up to operating temp, idle pulse widths are like 1-2ms. If the ECT was busted and showed a cold engine, when its really hot, you'll get a no-start.

 

ECT sensor would explain hot non-starting with fuel. It would be flooded. If that's the case you might be able to start by holding the gas pedal to the floor while cranking. (That shuts off injector pulses entirely.)

I looked back & couldn't see whether you have had the chance to pull the plugs & see whether they get wet.

Somewhere you can probably find what resistance the ECT sensor should be at different temperatures. It's in the Helm book.

But a bad ECT sensor won't explain your code 16. That should be an injector circuit that's open or something like that.

 

Where did Code 16 come from? I didn't even see this mentioned by him...

As for resistor values - 300 ohm is roughly 180*F. Lower resistance value = a hotter engine.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by raiden571 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">... i have a 95 civic ex. throwing code 16, i think it may be this</TD></TR></TABLE>Dang... wrong guy.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EE_Chris &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">As for resistor values - 300 ohm is roughly 180*F. Lower resistance value = a hotter engine.</TD></TR></TABLE>So an open circuit (really high resistance) would be interpreted as a cold engine. Seems like this would completely screw up the way it runs once you manage to get it started. So it's not as simple as an unplugged ECT sensor. Still might be faulty. What's room-temperature resistance?

 

No, the car has been operating properly lately, (its not hot enough outside yet i think) Once it gets into june and july the problem will occur more frequently (couple times a month.)

Also, i have tried the pedal to the floor whenever i cant get it to start and that doesnt seem to matter.