Alright guys, I can't figure it out...

I was at the dyno today to tune my built D16A1 (1987 Integra). The turbocharger I'm currently using is a Garrett T3 ( .42/.48 ) "45" trim. Fuel management is the S-AFC w/ 450cc injectors.

Dyno results:

10psi
140whp/140wtq

The AFR was perfect, timing looks correct. Compression is 170psi across all four cylinders (9.1:1 pistons - everything looks right).

I made the same power at half the pressure (same turbo) on the stock D16A1 a year ago.

Where is my horsepower?

Possibly related: my idle has been stuck at 2,000rpm since I first started this block two weeks ago. I had a coolant overflow (large) on the third run.

Modified by redteg_87 at 7:15 PM 6/25/2004


Modified by redteg_87 at 5:36 PM 6/27/2004

 

hrm, the coolant overflow maybe something to watch. headgasket?

 

Are you sure you have the cams in time with the bottom end? I had mine off by a couple teeth after I installed my cams and the car ran like ***. If you are off by just a little bit on your cam timing it will make your engine very angry. Are you throwing any codes? A shot TPS would make it run doggy too. Is your MAP sensor seeing any boost? Maybe your check valves are not working or something.
The coolant loss scares me though. I would check compression again. I blew my head once and it would boil over real quick.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crxhybrid85 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are you sure you have the cams in time with the bottom end? I had mine off by a couple teeth after I installed my cams and the car ran like ***. If you are off by just a little bit on your cam timing it will make your engine very angry. Are you throwing any codes? A shot TPS would make it run doggy too. Is your MAP sensor seeing any boost? Maybe your check valves are not working or something.
The coolant loss scares me though. I would check compression again. I blew my head once and it would boil over real quick.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I checked many times over on the timing. No avail.

No codes, MAP sensor isn't seeing boost, TPS reads correctly.

Compression is perfect.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by redteg_87 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">MAP sensor isn't seeing boost</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yup, that's your problem. How's the AFC going to provide fuel if the MAP sensor doesn't see boost?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by J. Davis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yup, that's your problem. How's the AFC going to provide fuel if the MAP sensor doesn't see boost?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Let me clarify. The ECU is not seeing any boost.

I ran the old engine at 8psi for an entire year with the exact same setup and had no problems. Now, with the new engine, I'm making less power at 10psi than I did when I dynoed the old engine at only 5psi.

 

Here is what I have done (plus other things I can't remember at the moment):

Bled coolant
Blocked FIV
Checked, double-checked, triple-checked, quadruple-checked all vacuum lines
Sprayed carb cleaner everywhere
Adjusted fuel mixture via S-AFC
Checked, double-checked, triple-checked, quadruple-checked mechanical timing
Checked, double-checked, triple-checked, quadruple-checked ignition timing
Tightened idle-screw all the way down
Sealed idle screw from any possible leak
Cleaned EACV/IACV
Disconnected EACV/IACV (brought idle down 200-300rpm)
Checked throttle cable
Replaced camshafts back to stock 1987 camshafts
Reset ECU
Checked electrical circutry to/within/from EACV/IACV

The engine still idles at 2,000rpm. The idle is rock-solid; does not surge at all. Warms up around 1,500rpm before easing to 2,000rpm.

On the dyno, car put out pathetic numbers (140whp/tq @ 10psi). &lt;- this may have been from the other camshafts?

Why won't it idle around or under 1,000rpm?

Help?

 

I fixed the idle problem. Ends up, the assembly that connects the throttle cable to the butterfly valve was somehow bent - thus not allowing the throttle plate to seat correctly.

I still am lacking power in the neighborhood of 100hp.

I'm going to check the compression yet again.

 

Change spark plugs, too. You may be suffering from glazing.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by J. Davis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Change spark plugs, too. You may be suffering from glazing.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Spark plugs look perfect.

Here's a dyno sheet. No AFR on this one, though:

 

i think it was the mosquito that you put in your headgasket but on a more serious note, are you using lower compression pistons then stock? thats the only thing i can think of that would cause lower #s at higher boost after a build

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sideout &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i think it was the mosquito that you put in your headgasket but on a more serious note, are you using lower compression pistons then stock? thats the only thing i can think of that would cause lower #s at higher boost after a build</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm starting to fear Mosquito Joe's revenge, too. Heh heh...

The new pistons are 9.1:1 compression ratio. Stock is 9.3:1. I don't see that as a significant enough change to lower my numbers this much.

 

Compression test results (today):

1 - 170psi
2 - 170psi
3 - 165psi
4 - 165psi

Last night I took her to the 1/8 mile track to see if my trap speeds increased much (ie: see if it is making more power with the original cams back in). Best trap was 78mph. That is around 150whp...

I had a major coolant overspill problem after racing, so I filled her back up. On the drive home from the track, the coolant level dropped dramatically (at home she was a quart low).

Today, I topped her off with coolant and let her run with the radiator cap off in an attempt to bleed the system. There were no bubbles for the first minute of operation. After that, there are a few bubbles every five seconds or so (regular rate) the whole time that the engine is on - even at temperature.

I can't imagine the head gasket is blown... I used ARP studs and a new OEM gasket that I even copper sealed.

This sucks!

Where can you buy the head gasket test strips?

 

what arp studs did you use since they do not make for the d16a1 or zc

 

I also have ad16a1 and made weak numbers at 22psi with a set of JG 1001 cams,It only made 249whp I changed the cams out and it made 301whp.At 10 psi you should be atleast 200whp.

 

Made a custom set...

(9) ATP-6.500-1LUB &lt;--- short studs
(1) ATP-7.100-1LUB &lt;--- long stud
(1) 300-8333 &lt;--- 12pt. nuts
(1) 100-9902 &lt;--- probably assembly lubricant?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 86si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I also have ad16a1 and made weak numbers at 22psi with a set of JG 1001 cams,It only made 249whp I changed the cams out and it made 301whp.At 10 psi you should be atleast 200whp.</TD></TR></TABLE>
What do you use for fuel management and what turbocharger?

 

Zdyne gold ecu and aT3T04b

 

Cool. I didn't know that the Zdyne supported our engine. You are running a browntop, right?

Any ideas on my problem?

 

No,it is a blacktop 88 integra with a hasport coversion harness to run an 88 teg ecu

 

Why a conversion harness to run a blacktop engine to a blacktop ecu?

 

additional wires for distributor are needed such as ignitor and sensors in the dist.Also several connectors need to be changed like for the tps.Keep in mind my car is an 86 civic si and is abit diff. than the integra What piston and rod combo do you have, I am using wiesco 9-1 with eagle rods from Race Eng. in Fla.Only place other than Endyn to stock them for a d16a1.Good price too, 385.00 for pistons

 

this really sounds like my civic when it had a blown HG, wasent somking alot but when i got on it, it would start to get hotter and the overflow tank would shoot coolant everywhere

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 86si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">additional wires for distributor are needed such as ignitor and sensors in the dist.Also several connectors need to be changed like for the tps.Keep in mind my car is an 86 civic si and is abit diff. than the integra What piston and rod combo do you have, I am using wiesco 9-1 with eagle rods from Race Eng. in Fla.Only place other than Endyn to stock them for a d16a1.Good price too, 385.00 for pistons</TD></TR></TABLE>
Exact same combo, bro.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sideout &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">this really sounds like my civic when it had a blown HG, wasent somking alot but when i got on it, it would start to get hotter and the overflow tank would shoot coolant everywhere </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah, it's acting like the old block when it had a blown head gasket.

I don't understand how it happened, though... I used a brand new OEM gasket, copper sealing spray and ARP studs.