I have an appointment at a shop in SLC on Monday for Hondata 3B install + dyno tuning. I was supposed to have Crower 63402 Cams installed today along with valvesprings and retainers. I just got a call from the shop telling me they must pull the head to install the valvetrain, but don't have B16 headgaskets in stock... so would I be alright if I let the shop in Salt Lake do the Cam/Valvetrain install, then slap the car up on the dyno to tune it? Or should I postpone my appointment?

Tryed a search...

TIA


[Modified by xThexHeadx, 9:00 PM 7/11/2002]

 

they must be broken in by revving the car up to about 3000 and letting it fluctuate for about 20 minutes. this will allow the cams to develop an even wear pattern. there should be no problem with installing cams, breaking them in with the parked revving pattern, and putting the car on a dyno.

 

wait wait wait. I want to know WHY they "must" pull the head to install the valvetrain.

What shop is this and how reputable are they?

 

I would like to know to.

 

yeah, drive out to my house in SE Denver, and I'll put 'em in and not take the head off. What's their problem? I can see maybe, maybe if you were changing out the springs and retainers that you might want to take it off.... that is if you don't know the nylon rope trick. Take the sparkplug out and feed some nylon rope down into the combustion chamber so you can use the tool to get the valve keepers out (so the valves won't open, so you have something to push against). I don't know why they'd need the head off... call the guy a jackass for me, ok?!?

 

You wont believe this, but it's my local Honda dealership I forgot what their excuse was, but I'm taking it to a local import repair shop and they said they could do it w/o pulling the head, they mentioned the Honda place might have been missing a certain tool...

 

you can pressurize the cylinders and change springs and retainers..
but the valves... thats a head removal.

 

Skunk2 says their cams don't need to be broken in..What's the story?

 

I'm taking a stand here and saying Cams need no break in. Just re-adjust the valves, let it idle a couple minutes to make sure that you bolted everything down right, and you should be cool.

 

Cams require a "break in" period.

Because they do not have beaings, they need to be heated up slowly, and evenly.

After installing the cams, of course make sure you apply the assembly lube generously, do your valve adjustment cold, and then start the car.

Listen for any problems, like valve tick, or mis-firing. If all seems good, rev the engine to about 2k, and hold it there for about 5-10 minutes.

That's about all you need to do.


[Modified by B18C-EJ1, 9:51 AM 7/12/2002]

 

Thanks everybody. I had to reschedule my appointment, so I will have the cams installed before I head to SLC for the Hondata install and dyno tuning. I should have the cams in the motor about a week before I go there, so they will have plenty of time in the motor before I rev the hell out of the motor on the dyno.

 

after everything is all done, shouldnt u do an oil change? i thought the lube gets all sucked and trapped in ur oil filter and can cause leaks, so u supposed to change ur oil right after the cam is installed and broken in. maybe i'm wrong tho. but i think i remember the lube in my oil filter after i installed mine. can anyone verify?

 

you really don't need to do an oil change but i went ahead and did one just to be on the safe side so just do the oil change


[Modified by drvfast, 3:22 AM 7/14/2002]

 

I understand how using compressed air keeps the valves up. Nylon rope ? Could you explain this one a little more ? I've never heard of this before.

 

yea im interested in this too. with this "nylon rope thing" u dont need the spring compressor AND the compressed air? so u can remove the valve springs without using those tools? or i just read wrong?

 

Nylon rope is inserted into the cylinder at BDC, you then rotate the crank until there is a BIT of pressure, then you use your spring compressor, removing the keepers. Take the retainers, and springs out, replace them, re-install the keepers. Rotate the crank SLIGHTLY clockwise, and remove the rope. Move to the next cylinder.

I like the air method better.

 

One thing about the spring compressor.... I had a mechanic change the springs/ret on my H22A.

The spring compressor he had was based on 'leverage'. He bolted up a a part of the spring compress to the head. About 6 inches above the head was a bar that ran paralell to the cylinder head. He used a lever that had a hollow cylinder about the size of the spring at the end of the lever to compress the spring.

Has anyone seen this before ? It was a real nice piece.

 

yeah, I've seen a spring compressor like that. Team L'Natural uses one like that, but I think they made it themselves.

I'm thinking of making my own spring compressor.