<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1 2 NV &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im like dude, **** that send it to RS, GE or anyone. dont trust some stupid *** machine shop to attempt to install sleeves. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Every block Ive seen personaly from GE is ****. they all have sucken sleeves. I wouldnt send them my block ever.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostn420 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Every block Ive seen personaly from GE is ****. they all have sucken sleeves. I wouldnt send them my block ever. </TD></TR></TABLE>

this was a joke right??? come on, every GE block u have seen has sunk??? do u realize what u just said??? ur on crack dude. i think all the major sleeve places do great work. i personally went with GE because of the great price i got on the work. we will see what happens when my block gets back.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1 2 NV &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i personally went with GE because of the great price i got on the work. we will see what happens when my block gets back. </TD></TR></TABLE>

you'll see who's on crack when you get your block back and drive it for a short while. Every one gets great prices. They probably have to because they suck ****. Yes I realize exactly what Im saying. Ive seen it first hand too many times, youll get your chance to see for yourself soon enough. I personally would've gone with Benson's.

 

up agen

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by maxxborist &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">up agen
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Thx this is a old post how your project going ?

 

send it to rs if you love the down time and excuses

 

And Dropped Sleeves the first time you push it hard.

 

Well after talking with Suprdave and hearing that his sleeves dropped i started to get scared. my cousins car will be done in a couple of months and i have yet to tell him the situation that RS machine is having. i feel bad because i am the one that told him to go there. i will keep you guys updated on his build up (hopefully it goes well) and Suprdave, im sorry to hear about what had happened to you. thanks for your input earlier.


Modified by maxxborist at 11:11 PM 5/3/2004

 

how much did that job cost anyways at RS...

 

$900, i have to admit the turn around time was quick on mine...took only 2 weeks, but i paid only 10% up front and fast turn around time doesnt mean good work. so cross your fingers and hope that mine turned out okay.

 

my block is at rs now and is taking for ******* ever! When I call, I get nothing but excuses. I'm starting to get pissed, I hope the quality is worth the wait.

 

do any of you understand what has to be done to a block in order for it to be sleeved? most of you would make fine employees at the machine shop that supposedly "fucked" the block up. in actuality, they just didnt finish the job. when you sleeve a block, you have to machine the sleeves out of it in order for the new ones to "slide" in. they use two different bore bits, one is large that will take the complete sleeve out down to the mounting surface, then a second that will slightly open it up to allow for the new sleeve to "slide" into. just look at a darton sleeve, use some common sense, and you should be able to understand what im talking about. like one guy said, they have to freeze the block before the press the new sleeves in so when the block comes back to ambient temperature, it will become nearly one peice.

im shocked that only one person could see the difference. i mean come on, the sleeves were siamesed to what looked like 1mm, then in the next picture, after a machine shop machined the rest of the old out, then installed the new, the siamesed sleeves had much more metal between them.

furthermore, a CNC shop would do it for much cheaper. then take the finished block to a machine shop, give the man the pistons youre gonna run, have him hone it with either a 400 stone or plateau it, tell him the cylinder-to-wall clearance desired, and damn near any machinist can do a good job.

a properly honed cylinder will be smooth when you run a finger down, and have a very slight bite when you pull your finger up the bore, that is, if they do a simple hone with a 380 or 400 stone.