hey guys i just threw a rod on my D16z6 and i have a great deal sitting in my lap for a D16Y8... my problem is my car is setup for OBD-I so what i need to know is can anyone give me a list to everything i need to swap over from my z6 to my y8 to make it work? so far i know i need to switch:

1.injectors
2.alternator
3.dizzy

what else do i need to swap over and what problems am i going to run into? also i just bought a new dizzy for my z6 from dist. king and i would like to keep it... will it bolt up to the y8? thanks for all the help guys
-Josh

 

you can use them all!!
just stick the obd1 alt on the y8 block
use the injectors from the z6
and you have to use an obf1 dizzy if you keep the car obd1, which i assume you are doing. all the holes wont line up exactly, but it will be close, just make sure you use a timing light to set your timing
good luck

 

so all the sensors on the y8 block are good to use with my obd1 setup? thanks for all the help man
-Josh

 

oh and you may have to change a couple sensors to use the y8 mani. if you want you can bolt up the z6 intake mani, but the y8 intake mani is better. the iacv may be different with the plugs and wires for it, just use the z6 one and there is no place on the intake mani for a iat on the y8, so you will need to put a hole in you intake tube and sitck it in there.
when i did it in my car, i didnt have the y8 mani, so i just used the z6 one and it was all gravy
good luck!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Crimson_Tide &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so all the sensors on the y8 block are good to use with my obd1 setup? thanks for all the help man
-Josh</TD></TR></TABLE>

the block sensors should all be the same, except you will not need the crank flucuation sensors on the y8 block that is down next to the crank pulley

 

awesome guys... thanks
-Josh

 

cool... would i notice any difference between my old z6 and the new y8? i only have basic bolt-ons... also ive heard that the z6 head flows better than the y8- should i keep my z6 head to swap on the y8 block and keep the y8 IM?
-Josh

 

i honestly would not mess with it. just leave the y8 head on the block and go to town. if you turbo it, i would just get some headstuds and call it a day
good luck

 

how much boost could i run on the stock headstuds? ive heard that if you run too much boost you can actually see the head bolts expand and the head rise... is this true? i wasnt looking to run more than 7-10 lbs on the stock bottom end anyways
-Josh

 

thats doable on stock head bolts, but you will probably eventually pop a head gasket cause its a d-series when you do, just get some head studs and boost away. i have two friends, one with a 14b, z6, headstuds, 15psi in a hatch running 13.2's on slicks. my other buddy has a tiny t3, 17psi, y8, 98 coupe, head studs, 13.1 @102 on drag radials!
just get her tuned and the d wont treat you wrong

 

you mean i wont be able to run more than 5 psi without blowing a headgasket soon? the car will be daily driven at around 4-5 psi but at the track or when im feeling frisky i would like to have it set at 7-10 on the t3/t4... also would i be able to use the stock fuel pump and injectors? i have rc 370 cc injectors in case i need more fuel... and for the moment(until i get the hondata s300) i have an safc to tune them
-Josh

 

if you run that 10psi on a t3/t4, dont be suprised if you the head lifts and you pop a head gasket. d-series are known to pop hg's quite easily compared to the b's.
i cant garauntee it. but if i were you, i would just toss some some studs and new hg on there while the motor is out of the car and never have to worry again.
i would get a walbro while you are at it, i seriously doubt the stocker will hold up. hell a walbro is only $85 and is super easy to change!
i would be weary running the s-afc on that large of a turbo with that much boost, i would feel better running a chipped ecu with a basemap, and then getting it tuned on crome or uberdata.

good luck and keep the questions coming. we have all been in your boat before

 

well im not going to be able to get arp head studs and a headgasket soon enough because i have just enough money for rent, the motor, and $10 to eat on this weekend... lol i hustled the guy at the junkyard from $450 for the motor to $300 and its off a '99 civic with 46k miles!! and the 30 day warranty is just an added bonus... my only concern is that the car was in an accident and the bolts on the drivers side motor mount broke off in the motor... but theres easily 1-1.5 inches of usable thread in both holes... should this bother me? im not planning on drag racing the car much at all- i mainly race autox... id like to swap out the fuel pump(i have a brand new eg pump) but its a pain in the *** on EF's... i have to drain the fuel tank, drop it, disconnect all the lines, and take out the fuel pump ... its not easy like on eg's
-Josh

 

also should i worry about the timing belt being off a couple teeth? the guy at the junkyard said that he would check if he were in my shoes... but it looks like it was a clean break and there isnt any damage besides the bolts... ive just never learned how to make sure timing is correct and i dont have a timing light or anything
-Josh

 

ok well i just found out that the motor was out of an automatic car... will this affect anything? also where is the IACV on this thing? theres a box on top of the IM just behind the fuel rail... is this it? ive also done a little research and i guess the Y8 is supposed to be 12* ignition timing while the Z6 is 16*... will swapping over to the Z6 dizzy fix this problem and if not what will i have to do? thanks for all the help guys
-Josh

 

bump for answer

 

auto should really effect anything. the iacv is on the back of the intake mani, 2 bolts hold it in with coolant lines running to it.
just set you timing with the marks on the y8 pulley and you will be fine

 

ive heard that the auto IM are different from the manual IM... whats different between them? theres a lot of sensors on this manifold that i dont recognize... and i think i found a spot on the back for the IACV but im not sure... how much of a gain will i see between this intake manifold and my old z6? if its such a pain i would just rather swap them if theres no real difference in hp... one more question- later down the road i plan to pnp my z6 head and slap that on the y8 block... which cam would be better to use for my app? if i go aftermarket what cams should i look at for good mid-top end power? thanks
-Josh