Crank and rod bearing?
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Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jul 2001
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From: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
What kind of crank and rod bearings should I use for my motor. It will be an all-out boost and high revving motor. Hoping for 600+ HP, which should I use???
ACL's are also a good option to the factory bearings (opinions will vary)
But the most important thing,reguardless of type of bearings used is the proper il clearances.
[Modified by SLPR, 6:00 AM 12/13/2002]
But the most important thing,reguardless of type of bearings used is the proper il clearances.
[Modified by SLPR, 6:00 AM 12/13/2002]
I would also recommend opening up the hole in the bearing for additional flow, as well as opening up the oil control jet for additional flow to the valve train. If you are really going to produce the much HP and heat, your bearing surfaces will enjoy the extra volume to help keep them cool.
Kirk
Kirk
Yes...use Honda ones. But are you turning/cutting your crank at all? Just so you know, Honda doesn't make any oversized bearings. They have a few sizes, but even their largest won't fit if you cut/turn your crank.
I did that with my setup, and I went with Clevite bearings. I hear that's what Nascar people use? Maybe I dunno.
I did that with my setup, and I went with Clevite bearings. I hear that's what Nascar people use? Maybe I dunno.
I read in a previous post where someone said that Honda cranks aren't supposed to be grinded; so is it trash when it's out-of-round or tapered? I really doubt that they're trash, can anyone else agree/disagree? And why don't the dealer have oversized bearings if you can regrind them?
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I rebuilt a JG motor and it came with a reground crank in it. It had .25mm oversized ACL's. Bearings were the only thing that was right about the motor.
Yea I hate those JG motors..... I've never heard to much or have been to impressed with them at all... But I've seen many people float their valves with those heads... For some reason everyone that I've seen with them thinks that they'll make power up to 10,000rpm and everything will be fine... Portflow headwork for me, and after GE sleeves it i'll assemble the bottom end
... Latez
... Latez
I would also recommend opening up the hole in the bearing for additional flow, as well as opening up the oil control jet for additional flow to the valve train. If you are really going to produce the much HP and heat, your bearing surfaces will enjoy the extra volume to help keep them cool.
So you CAN regrind Honda cranks and wouldn't sacrifice strength or anything?? Anyone? I have an LS crank that needs to be turned and I'm just waiting for some suggestions...
I would also recommend opening up the hole in the bearing for additional flow, as well as opening up the oil control jet for additional flow to the valve train. If you are really going to produce the much HP and heat, your bearing surfaces will enjoy the extra volume to help keep them cool.
I pretty much disagree with everything you say here. You don't touch anything on the bearing. You can champhor the oil feed hole in the crank but do not enlarge it. That would weaken the crank. You never want to open up the oil control hole in the head as the valve area would be overwhelmed with too much oil. Volume of oil is not a problem for a properly clearanced bearing.
I pretty much disagree with everything you say here. You don't touch anything on the bearing. You can champhor the oil feed hole in the crank but do not enlarge it. That would weaken the crank. You never want to open up the oil control hole in the head as the valve area would be overwhelmed with too much oil. Volume of oil is not a problem for a properly clearanced bearing.
So you CAN regrind Honda cranks and wouldn't sacrifice strength or anything?? Anyone? I have an LS crank that needs to be turned and I'm just waiting for some suggestions...
Check the cost of regrinding the crank compared to buying a used one.
I didn't say anything about opening up the holes in the crank - they are plenty large enough and I agree with you that it weakens the crank.
My experience comes from building all motor race engines - these simple modifications are done to ensure logevity of bearings and valve train by many motor builders...including myself. I have witnessed first hand that it does allow the bearings to run cooler and the cam lobes and exhaust valves to run cooler.
Kirk
My experience comes from building all motor race engines - these simple modifications are done to ensure logevity of bearings and valve train by many motor builders...including myself. I have witnessed first hand that it does allow the bearings to run cooler and the cam lobes and exhaust valves to run cooler.
Kirk
You can regrind cranks if you are willing to send it out and get it heat treated after you do it...when you grind the crank you are cutting through the nitride hardening and you need to replace it.
In our race motors we will not use reground cranks - we get new ones as removing any material from the crank journals make it weaker...you're application is different.
Kirk
In our race motors we will not use reground cranks - we get new ones as removing any material from the crank journals make it weaker...you're application is different.
Kirk
You can regrind cranks if you are willing to send it out and get it heat treated after you do it...when you grind the crank you are cutting through the nitride hardening and you need to replace it.
I have ground down cranks to find out where the nitride hardening gives out and have found it as shallow as .030"...I thought the nitride process was generally limited to about 0.040" in depth - I'll have to look up the process definition again - damn I hate forgetting things that are important!
I guess my bottom line - I wouldn't grind a Honda crank...
Kirk
I guess my bottom line - I wouldn't grind a Honda crank...
Kirk
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