Cause o2 sensor voltage to jump out of it's range???

I have a Canadian model Civic ( which from my understanding do not have ELD's-
Electric Load Detectors ) with an american integra ls motor...

My air/fuel gauge hasn't been reading right for the past 4 o2 sensor's ( I now realize that there was nothing wrong with the o2 sensors, but something else ). This is the only thing, else, that I can think of that can cause this to wrong...

I understand that the ELD checks for excess amperage in electrical components...but I don't know what it does with it...does it regulate it or something...

So, I'm thinking that the amperage of the o2 sensor is going out of it's range ( because it is ) and the ELD isn't there to regulate it....

Does this make sense??? Does it sound like the ELD, or lack of, could be my problem?

 

Here you go t-doggy

Code 20 - Electric Load Detector

First make sure you have a good battery....


Open the Main Fuse box lid (Right side shock tower).
Disconnect the 3 point connector, from the ELD unit. (Follow the harraness that runs through the box).
With the ignition switch ON, there should be battery voltage between the BLK/YEL(+) and BLK(-) terminals.

If there is no voltage, check for:

Blown No. 14 (10A) fuse in the dash fuse box.
An open in the BLK/YEL(+) wire between the dash fuse box and the main fuse box.
Pour ground (G201)
If there is voltage then goto the next step.....

Check for voltage between the GRN/RED terminal and body ground with the ignition switch ON. There should
be approximately 5V.

If the voltage(5V) is not specified, check the alternator control system.
If the voltage is as specified then goto next step.....

Connect the 3 - Point Connector to the ELD unit.

Check for volatage between the GRN/RED terminal and body ground, with the ignition switch ON and turn on the
headlight low beam's.

There should be approximately 2V.

If the voltage(2V) is not specified, replace the main fuse box (ELD unit is not available separately)
If the voltage is as specified above, ELD unit is OK.

Trey the electronic load detector basically does what is says it will do. IT detects load. When a load is detected, it regulates the alternator/charging systems % of duty.
When load is present, like when you turn your headlights on, the ELD gives the correct voltage to the ECU then to the IACV to bump the idle up just a tad to compensate for the alternator drag, making your honda engine run smooth and so fourth.

So I think you are barking up the wrong tree. Do you know how inaccurate those pretty guages are? Are you running OBD2? You may have to convert, this could purge your system from the bullshit.

 

Nice reply by 4g4me. Only want to add that the O2 sensor output is an output only. The element generates a voltage when heated depending on the oxygen content in the gas stream it is in. It does not draw current from the electrical system, unless it's a heated type and is cold.

 

Hey aaron... I would do what you suggest, but there would be no point in checking the ELD's voltage because I don't have one...

Not running OBD 2...well obd2 motor, obd 1 ECU...




[Modified by HondaCutter, 5:51 PM 2/20/2003]

 

looks like you already have replies, but a quick answer would be that the o2 sensor and ELD system are NOT related at all.

 

I don't know what else my problem could be caused by though...

Could it be a relay problem?

 

Problem: Air/fuel gauge isn't reading right

Possible Causes: Air/fuel gauge is somehow miswired or poorly connected.

Air/fuel gauge is loading down the O2 sensor output.

Air/fuel gauge is reading correctly, but an ignition, fuel, or
other engine problem is causing the exhaust to be too rich
or lean, and the O2 sensor is just reporting that condition.
(In other words, the O2 sensor is working correctly)

 

His car runs fine, a little hesitation off idle....his autometer a/f guage is reading...off, compared to simular turbo'd hondas.

par·a·noid ( P ) Pronunciation Key (pr-noid)
adj.
Relating to, characteristic of, or affected with paranoia.
Exhibiting or characterized by <U>extreme and irrational fear or distrust</U> of others: a paranoid suspicion that the phone might be bugged.

n.
One affected with paranoia.

 

i'm not paranoid...

the gauge worked for a while right when we did the swap, then I was racing someone one night and when I hit second (there was wheel hop and stuff) it stopped working correctly...

after that night the gauge would work right sometimes, and wrong other times...
then I changed the o2 sensor, it worked correctly for while with the new one, then the problem came back...

since then I have put two more o2 sensors in and the problem is still there...

I've tried the gauge on someone elses car and it worked, so it's not the gauge...
I tried switching ECUs with another car...didn't work...
I tried running a wiring a wire from the o2 sensor signal wire straight to the ECU and tapped the gauge into that...didn't work
I bought new spark plug wires, new distributor cap and rotor...didn't work

I don't know about it being a fuel problem or an ignition problem...because it never works right...
it seems like if it was a fuel or ignition problem it would work before that problem would occur...

what do you mean by this?




[Modified by HondaCutter, 9:03 PM 2/22/2003]

 

bump

 

bump

 

Air/fuel gauge is loading down the O2 sensor output.

What that means is the output is around 1 volt maximum, and very little current. In other words, it wouldn't light a 1 volt bulb. If the gauge was faulty it could be loading down the output (sucking the volts down to zero), but you stated it works OK on another car.