Yes I researched before posting. I have a JDM B16a in a 94 integra, fully built turbo on 14lbs
with about 10k miles. Last week I installed a Neukin radiator with shroud and slim fan and samco radiator hoses. Ever since then my check engine light has been coming on and Hondata is throwing error code 11 engine overheating, but my temp gauge remains the same as it did when operating at normal temps. I have spent the last week researching and changing ECT sensors and even the fan switch today and now the fan comes on then stop then come on. very weird. i read a thread where this happened to someone and they said to unplug the fan switch for a bit then replug and it should go away- that has not worked. My CEL comes on at 220 and I just changed the thermostat from a low temp to an OEL. If someone can please help Im getting very frustrated with this. I am aware that some say it could be a head gasket but I dont beat my car and the engines practically new and i have no other head gasket signs of failure. One more thing I looked up Error Codes and No List has code 11 on it. it goes from 10-12 so does anyone know about code 11. thanks in advance for any help i'm getting tired of sharing my girlfriends car.

 

I forgot one thing what should the coolant temp under normal driving conditions for a turbo engine?

 

Come on guys I've got 59 views and no responce help a fellow Honda lover out!

 

check your slim fan, if its working, blowing the right way, and blowing hard enuff

 

yeah I checked and the fan is blowing air into the engine bay so its drawing cool air from the outside. Can anyone at least tell me what normal operating temps are for a turbo b16 so at least i could drive while monitoring the temp on hondata. thanks

 

you should be under 200 degrees.

 

Ditto the above, the rad fan should be turning on when engine coolant temp. hits 194 degrees F.

Did you bleed the coolant system?


When you say, "now the fan comes on then stop then come on" what exactly do you mean?
The rad fan is supposed to turn on and off, depending on engine coolant temp., if it is just turning on and off repeatadly check the rad fan relay and fuse, [replace the fuse even if it looks good].94

 

Thanks for the replies, with the fan I assumed once the engine went above the 195-200 mark that it should be on continuously until the temp goes back down right? I did bleed the air using the bleeder valve. I took the rad cap off started the car and opened the valve until I got a solid stream for a few minutes the whole process took about 20minutes. I have replaced every ect sensor, fan switch and temp sender. All were corroded I replaced the temp sender today but had to got to work so couldn't test everything. Would the fan shroud cause excess heat due to the extra metal and could it be possible I got a faulty radiator? The fluid flows good in the radiator so I think I can rule out the water pump- plus no leaks. If it's none of this could it really be a head gasket even though I have no othe hg symptoms? I'm dying here very frustrating dealin with this on top of full time job! Thanks again eveyone

 

Rad fan will stay on as long as engine coolant temp. is over 194. 94

 

BLEED BLEED BLEED the cooling system. If all was dandy before hand its airbound plain and simple.

 

Bleeding I have found out is great advice. Last night I replaced the ect sensor again just to be safe and proceeded to bleed the he'll out the thing. After the initial fill and bleed I let it cool down then put a big funnel(the one for a bottle) filled it up with water and ran the car with the bleeder open for about 20mins. It was shooting atriaght liquid for a while but the every now and again it would spit and sputter. So definite lots of air in there and not sure if the ect sensor had anything to do with it. But for the first time today after the 2nd bleeding my fan kicked on at 197*F and dropped the temp to 192* and turned off. This is the first time since the new radiator that it has idled without overheating. I'm gonna do one more bleed session and drive it to work in the morning. I'll keep you posted thanks for the help glad it was the head gasket. Oh is it necessary to raise the fron end while bleeding?

 

Update: I officially drove to work today( only 10-15 min drive) and I didn't overheat!! That's with no boost And my fans turning on at 197 degrees and cools to 192 and stops. So this is good but I'm using Hondata s300 and would like to set my fan temp to 185degrees but when I'm in s manager I pull up the parameters and it doesn't allow me to input my own temp and it doesn't allow me to select anything. I see it but it's not selectable. I am tuned already so does anyone know how to input your own values in s manager? It says I'm online and can datalog just no inputs, appreciate the help.

 

The only way to change rad fan operation would be to change the ECT switch to one that closes at a lower temp.

Rad fan operation is not controlled by the ECU/ECM, it is controlled by the ECT switch.

You could install an aftermarket adjustable ECT switch.94

 

WRONG !!

Hondata S300 will control fan.

Perameters/Protection
Check "override radiator fanc"
Set perameters
Fan turns on at desired temps

Been running my fan this way since hondata launched this feature a few years ago
you can also wire to one of the outputs on the ecu to a relay and set perameters that way but no need

 

I was talking about the stock ECU/ECM.

The 94 Integra rad fan is controlled by the ECT switch, that supplies a ground to the rad fan relay, turning on the fan.

Does the Hondata S300 have an output lead that goes to the rad fan relay? 94

 

Stock obd1 ecus have fan control built in but for some reason honda thought it should be controlled by the thermo switch instead. No additional wiring is nessesary with s300 to control fan

 

OK, I see it now, checked the wiring diagram in Alldata, [the one I have does not show a connection to the ECU/ECM] it also shows in my Haynes manual, green lead, [FANC].

You learn something every day. 94

 

Okay so check this sh*t out, yesterday I decided to try and bleed some more air out and after 30mins I closed the bleeder valve and just keptthe rad cap off and all I have are big bubbles coming up! I pulled the funnel and I had oil residue on it. After sticking my finger in the rad fluid it came out covered in oil! Can't believe it's a damn head gasket! When I replace my radiator I broke the bleeder valve off when the car was hot and spilled all the coolant out my mechanic thinks this could be why I have a blown hg out of now where. The car will be in the shop tues and I'm gonna go ahead and get my valves checked out and seals replaced with new head bolts and water pump. Thanks for the help people