converting to coil on plug setup
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From: MARYLAND, united states
converting to coil on plug setup
So I have been kicking the idea around about converting my integra to coil on plug setup to replace my unreliable distributor. I'm not really looking for any performance gains but more new technology in older car type of deal. I was looking at the aem c.o.p. conversion kit. Rywire sells for $775 but not sure if I have to buy the aem ecu to make it all work or if I can reuse my chipped ecu. I know hondata has a setup to but it still realize on the sensors in the distributor. I want to eliminate the distributor completely. Any info on aem kit?
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From: South Florida
Re: converting to coil on plug setup
You can use the hondata setup and buy a cam position sensor in place of the dizzy. Looks just like the one that AEM sells. The only reason why hondata still needs the dizzy is for the cam sensor.
Re: converting to coil on plug setup
youre a bit misinformed on why your OE distributor is unreliable. its not the sensors thats the problem, its the coil and ignitor thats housed inside it.
cant speak for the AEM, EPM, etc stuff, as I do not use it. I do however use the Hondata COP kit w/my S300.
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From: Mustard Belt
Re: converting to coil on plug setup
Honda/Acura built a pretty stout ignition system from '89~'02 (still some carbed motors before, coils after). the only cases i've every seen with reliability issues were where cheap parts had been used or the car had just been totally neglected. IMO cap, rotor and plugs are wear parts and should be replaced at regular intervals to keep things working properly. ignitor, coil and wires can be proactivly replaced as budget allows to stay ahead of the game. but, if you don't use good quality parts and insure proper, leak free install.. you'll keep having issues.
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From: MARYLAND, united states
Re: converting to coil on plug setup
Problems I been having were mainly coil and igniters going bad, replaced with known good oem ones from other distributors and would go bad shortly after. My tach goes ape **** after 5 grand or when I get on the car hard. I swapped my distributor with my friends and tach worked flawless all the way through redline. So then I put my distributor back on and swapped the coil And igniters and the tach would would still bounce around. And mine seem to have a burning smell which leaves me to think the sensors are going bad and Honda has dicontiuned the distributor and I don't really wanna take a chance on carquest, napa etc replacement distributors
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Re: converting to coil on plug setup
Could be the coil/ignitor wiring inside the distributor or at the plug. If sensors were bad you'd get a check engine light....
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From: MARYLAND, united states
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,082
Likes: 1
From: MARYLAND, united states
Re: converting to coil on plug setup
Yea I have no cel and car runs perfectly fine other then the bouncing tach. In the past I ignored it and ended up with a dead car at the gas pump for 3 hours til I got it running. So im sure its only a matter of time before this bouncing tach leaves the car dead again so Im trying to get this annoyance fixed
Re: converting to coil on plug setup
If Im not mistaken the tach pulls its signal from the ICM, if youre tach is bouncing, then its probably because the ICM is going bad.
What are the signs of a bad igniter?
<------- NEC is a good known brand. If you don't have an NEC or HITACHI then that could be the problem.
The tachometer quits abruptly or jerks around before stalling.
Once the car warms up and the igniter gets hot then the car dies. Occasionally it'll start back up or when the car has to sit and cool then it'll repeat the same symptoms.
For manual transmission, no spark, but when push start down hill, rpm won't shoot up.
Engine cranks but RPM needle on the gauge won't show a hint of life. (Remember, you won't be able to see the differences. The movements are very hard to point out. This is reserved for the keen observer and those with an extra strong car battery.)
No spark at the coil or No on/off voltage at the coil's (+, - ) terminals when cranking but find injectors pulsing or clicking. See section 4 of this page.
OKI brand was used.
<------- NEC is a good known brand. If you don't have an NEC or HITACHI then that could be the problem.
The tachometer quits abruptly or jerks around before stalling.
Once the car warms up and the igniter gets hot then the car dies. Occasionally it'll start back up or when the car has to sit and cool then it'll repeat the same symptoms.
For manual transmission, no spark, but when push start down hill, rpm won't shoot up.
Engine cranks but RPM needle on the gauge won't show a hint of life. (Remember, you won't be able to see the differences. The movements are very hard to point out. This is reserved for the keen observer and those with an extra strong car battery.)
No spark at the coil or No on/off voltage at the coil's (+, - ) terminals when cranking but find injectors pulsing or clicking. See section 4 of this page.
OKI brand was used.
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From: MARYLAND, united states
Re: converting to coil on plug setup
Tach still bounces when I replace my igniter with a know good one but if I replace the whole distributer with same known igniter it the tach works fine. Basically I swapped my igniter with a friends working one my tach still bounces but if I put his whole distributer on my car my tach works fine. This where I'm not sure what's going on with my distributer
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From: Florida
Re: converting to coil on plug setup
Newer technology just makes sense. Uninformed people will try to tell you distributors are better because they see them on race cars. No, those are magnetos that create their own power. Just think, every plug has it's own coil versus a single coil that has to recharge between all of that which gets difficult at higher RPM. Needless to say I'm excited to get mine fired up. $313 into the whole setup when a new cap, rotor, and wires is every bit of half of that.
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From: MARYLAND, united states
Re: converting to coil on plug setup
I mean don't get me wrong I would rather keep the distributor if I could get it to work right and save the money but its getting to where I should convert to c.o.p. as it may be cheaper in the long run. I'm just unsure I have to run the aem ems with their c.o.p. or if I can just order the kit and still use my current chipped ecu
Re: converting to coil on plug setup
Newer technology just makes sense. Uninformed people will try to tell you distributors are better because they see them on race cars. No, those are magnetos that create their own power. Just think, every plug has it's own coil versus a single coil that has to recharge between all of that which gets difficult at higher RPM. Needless to say I'm excited to get mine fired up. $313 into the whole setup when a new cap, rotor, and wires is every bit of half of that.
This dude is better off buying a new, reman distributor he has no need to spend $870 (locashracing prices) for Hondata's S300 and COP or $2000+ (summitracing prices) on AEM EMS and COP stuff.
I mean don't get me wrong I would rather keep the distributor if I could get it to work right and save the money but its getting to where I should convert to c.o.p. as it may be cheaper in the long run. I'm just unsure I have to run the aem ems with their c.o.p. or if I can just order the kit and still use my current chipped ecu
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From: MARYLAND, united states
Re: converting to coil on plug setup
I would prefer brand new oem honda distributor but they are no longer available per acuraoemparts.com. reman would be option if I knew where to get a good reputable one that will compare to oem quality
Edit** so I picked up a used 99 oem si one and tach is no longer jumping at wot
Edit** so I picked up a used 99 oem si one and tach is no longer jumping at wot
Last edited by dc4teg95; Nov 9, 2013 at 12:56 PM.
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From: davie, fl, usa
Re: converting to coil on plug setup
Came across these the other day doing some COP research for my integra. Anyone have any experience
http://www.jbtuned.com/products/hond...onversion.html
http://www.jbtuned.com/products/hond...onversion.html
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From: Chicago, IL
Re: converting to coil on plug setup
Yeah True that! Recently experienced a check engine light with my 97 EK. I did a wiretuck on mine about 3 years ago, and the other day the TDC Input Wire that links from the ECU to the Distributor went lose, and the car ran like ****. After that, it automatically triggered the MIL.
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