i have a 95 honda civic with a 1995 jdm b16a turbo. i did a compression test a little earlier and my results were as follows
cyl 1 - 215 psi
cyl 2 - 215 psi
cyl 3 - 195 psi
cyl 4 - 210 psi
everything looked good to me except for cylinder 3, i got all my reading on the other cylinders after the motor turning over about 8 times except on 3, after 8 turns it said 140, then after 8 more got to 180, then 8 moe brought to the 195, i didnt try anymore after that but it did hold this 195 til i released it. good it be cuz i just didnt have a good seal, or does the fact that it took that many cranks to build this amount of pressure show that there is something that needs to be fixed, valves seals, whatever. thanks for any input

 

Why do you care what the compression is?

is the car not running well?

If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

 

Was the engine warmed up before you did the test? Honestly that doesent look too bad. I have seen alot worse. Are you running stock compression?

 

yes i am running stock compression, engine is completely stock except for turbo kit. and engine runs fine, also it was completely cold hadnt even been started for a day when i did the test. and reason for checking the compression was cause i put the turbo kit on at my dads and then drove the car 5 miles home to get it out of his way on the stock p30 ecu. i stayed out of boost for the most part, never got on it, havent got a tune yet cuz im still waiting on my 440cc injectos and 2.5 bar map sensor. so i just wanted to check compression and make sure everything was good, i know the numbers on the test are quite good, just concerned on how many cranks it took to build this pressure, anyone had this happen or may know of a reason why it would specifically take more cranks than usual to build up the compression or like i said b4 could it just be a mistake on my part like not getting a good seal

 

#3 is the cylinder that seems to have the most issues anyway's.

I can't remember what the directions are, but it may be the engine needs to be warm.

 

Try it again, make sure its warm, all plugs are out and fuel is disabled. Then post readings. The fact that the tester held the reading until released just tells you the tester doesent leak. There is a schreider valve at the end of the hose, so the reading is held between the end and the guage.

 

could i just unplug the fuel pump where the wires go in under the silver cover or what? backseat is still removed from changing to 255lph fuel pump so wont be hard to get to, whats the significance of motor being warm? not saying i dont believe you or anything just curious. and are you thinking this may fix the issue of it taking forever to build pressure when the car is actually warm and will my compression numbers end up being lower perhaps?


Modified by boostnbee at 9:58 PM 8/10/2008

 

all metals expand with heat so in theory your numbers should be higher because the motor will be tighter. You can just pull the fuse in the fusebox for the ecu to kill the fuel.

 

thanks for the input, just redid the compression test after letting the motor warm up for 10 minutes and results were great - (after 5 cranks of the motor per cylinder)
cyl 1 - 220 psi
cyl 2 - 220 psi
cyl 3 - 225 psi
cyl 4 - 220 psi
go figure the cylinder i was worried bout from b4 had the best results this time. Fraking awesome numbers i think, ordered this swap from hmotors a year and a half ago been running it everday since for hmotorsonline for sure. Just remember guys you get what you pay for