At a complete loss...
Hey everyone so I have a 97 boosted Integra, Nippon turbo Pistons, crower rods, arp hardware acl race beAring set Css block has a pretty much full crower top end ss valves dual springs and retainers super tech valve seals 404 cams edelbrock intake manifold gt35r turbo, 1000cc injectors run on hondata
Now my problem as you see
It's a 97 so shitty for me I need obd2 inspection, so like I did last year plugged in the stock injectors and computer and map sensor worked great last year, now this time around the car is running super rich at idle and when I take it out of gear while driving it just wants to shut off unless I give it some pedal to keep it running. I am at a total loss a/f is great while driving no problems only when the car is warm and idling or if I take it out of gear.
I have read and read and read and now am at a complete loss, I put a new map sensor tried new injectors new crank sensor, check the coolant temp to make sure it was heating up, carb cleaned around all fittings for vacuum leaks nothing. Did a valve adjustment checked the timing.... The iacv seems responsive as I change it on the Hondata and it responds.... I am at a total loss with it right now and any help would be great could it be a faulty iacv? I just don't know.... Please help this has been plaguing me for about two weeks now
Now my problem as you see
It's a 97 so shitty for me I need obd2 inspection, so like I did last year plugged in the stock injectors and computer and map sensor worked great last year, now this time around the car is running super rich at idle and when I take it out of gear while driving it just wants to shut off unless I give it some pedal to keep it running. I am at a total loss a/f is great while driving no problems only when the car is warm and idling or if I take it out of gear.
I have read and read and read and now am at a complete loss, I put a new map sensor tried new injectors new crank sensor, check the coolant temp to make sure it was heating up, carb cleaned around all fittings for vacuum leaks nothing. Did a valve adjustment checked the timing.... The iacv seems responsive as I change it on the Hondata and it responds.... I am at a total loss with it right now and any help would be great could it be a faulty iacv? I just don't know.... Please help this has been plaguing me for about two weeks now
Where are you located? I run Hondata in my '97 Civic and never have any problems when running through emissions. I am in Arizona and I know that they can't read anything when they plug into the OBD connector, but as long as the CEL comes on with the ignition on and turns off with the engine running, they pass me. I know this doesn't solve your problem here, but have you ever tried to run it through as is with Hondata? If they start asking questions, just play stupid. At worst, they just won't pass you and you have 30 days to figure it out.
Has your tune changed at all since the last time you swapped stock parts back to go through emissions? My guess if you are running super rich would be to turn down your rail pressure for the time being. Then put it right back where it was when you put the Hondata back in.
Has your tune changed at all since the last time you swapped stock parts back to go through emissions? My guess if you are running super rich would be to turn down your rail pressure for the time being. Then put it right back where it was when you put the Hondata back in.
Thanks for the response I did try and run with Hondata New Hampshire isn't so nice... I have since swapped the stock rail
And stock fpr into the car with no avail the car is basically set as a stock 97 Integra that just run s on my wife and between 11.7-12.2 I tried to turn the fuel pressure down as well and I have to turn it so low the car is I driveable when I do it has to
Go down to 20 or less to get it to idle correctly
And stock fpr into the car with no avail the car is basically set as a stock 97 Integra that just run s on my wife and between 11.7-12.2 I tried to turn the fuel pressure down as well and I have to turn it so low the car is I driveable when I do it has to
Go down to 20 or less to get it to idle correctly
It was meant to say on the air fuel gauge it reads 11.7-12.2 when at idle when the car is driving it seems to run fine stoic but if u take it out into neutral it was to shut off completely I also replaced the upstream 02 as well
Hmmmm, with the stock injectors and ECU back in you should be able to run factory rail pressure just fine. CEL isn't on, is it? Have you checked for codes? You had this very same set-up (engine components) as before when you passed emissions? I'm wondering if you have an air leak somewhere, but that would cause you to run lean. Could have leaky injectors dumping fuel. Swap in a new set if you can.
I guess if you don't have any faults stored and the CEL is off, why don't you just take it through emissions and then put your Hondata back in. Do they actually drive the cars in New Hampshire? Where I am, they just plug into the OBD connector, see if everything is "ready", check to see that the CEL works properly, check the cap, and you are on your way. Sometimes they lift the hood, but that is rare anymore.
If all else fails, start from the beginning. Put everything back that you had in with the Hondata and make sure it is running perfectly like that. I just can't see how this worked before and is not now when you have the exact same set-up. Just try to think of anything you have changed from the last time you did this to now.
I guess if you don't have any faults stored and the CEL is off, why don't you just take it through emissions and then put your Hondata back in. Do they actually drive the cars in New Hampshire? Where I am, they just plug into the OBD connector, see if everything is "ready", check to see that the CEL works properly, check the cap, and you are on your way. Sometimes they lift the hood, but that is rare anymore.
If all else fails, start from the beginning. Put everything back that you had in with the Hondata and make sure it is running perfectly like that. I just can't see how this worked before and is not now when you have the exact same set-up. Just try to think of anything you have changed from the last time you did this to now.
I have tried 3 sets of injectors all from running motors, I have checked for vac and air leaks via smoke test and spraying carb cleaner around all of the fittings, I have hoped to be able to get it to pass but the problem
Is driving it to put miles on it to make everything readiness, the car ran beautiful on the Hondata but at the same point you can tweak everything that could be covering up a problem..... I have gone back over each thing and just am at a loss on how it could be running so rich once the car warms up I can barely drive it cuz I have to work all three pedals to keep it ru Ning if I left off the gas for one second while car is not in gear it will instantly just drop Rpms and shut off but I guess it's just one of those things thanks for the advice
Is driving it to put miles on it to make everything readiness, the car ran beautiful on the Hondata but at the same point you can tweak everything that could be covering up a problem..... I have gone back over each thing and just am at a loss on how it could be running so rich once the car warms up I can barely drive it cuz I have to work all three pedals to keep it ru Ning if I left off the gas for one second while car is not in gear it will instantly just drop Rpms and shut off but I guess it's just one of those things thanks for the advice
Well, I'm at a loss too. Without being able to diag the actual vehicle, I can only come up with suggestions. Only other things I can think of is maybe a bad ECU, but that's rare. Go back to the basics, fuel supply, ignition, and timing. Good luck and let us know what you find. May help someone out in the future.
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I am going to go through the timing again I recently checked it and everything was aligned but I will do it again fuel supply seems good I have a gauge on the the rail and it's getting fuel too much haha and all the ignition is new plugs wires cap rote and coil
What about the O-ring that goes between the MAP sensor and the throttle body ??? I have seen one of these drop off while changing MAP sensors and this allows a bit of air leakage... enough to move the idle into a very rich part of the fuel map and cause what you are experiencing.
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