cold cranking amps
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Joined: Jul 2001
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From: virginia beach, virginia, usa
cold cranking amps
im in virginia beach and its starting to get pretty cold here...ive been having problems with my car cutting on...its taking longer than usual...what you be signs of the battery not having enough cold cranking amps and how much should i have ...right now the battery i have has about 450cold cranking amps..
Thread Starter
New User
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 628
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From: virginia beach, virginia, usa
Re: cold cranking amps (Jared)
well maybe thats not the problem....when i turn the car on...its trying to turn over..but then like in the morning when i first start it...it wont even do that..i can hear the fuel priming, i wonder is it the spark..any suggestions??
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Joined: Dec 2001
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From: Saint Paul, MN, USA
Re: cold cranking amps (B18C-RnVA)
You pretty much answered your own question.. Yes, I believe the problem is your BAttery..
If you've got a TEg, it needs at least a 410 CCA BAttery.. I bought a 490 CCA just to be safe..
But unlike the other dude, I don't think you've got a Dead Cell in your Battery. You might have a Shorted Cell because Batteries don't have Dead Cells.. Because how can it be dead?.. It was never alive..
But I doubt it's a Shorted Cell.. But if want to test it.. Take your Trusty Multimeter and get a Voltage REading from the Battery.. But before doing so.. Make sure that it is fully charged and that you've gotten rid of the Surface Charge on it. To get rid of the Surface Charge, turn off the Engine and turn on your headlights for about one minute and then shut them off and wait another minute.. Now check the Voltage at the Battery. If you've got something like 12.4V to 12.6V, then you don't have a Shorted Cell.. But if you got a reading like 10V or so, then you've got a Shorted Cell, not a Dead Cell..
But what I think you should do is take your car in to a shop and have them do a Starter Draw Test and a Load Test on your Battery. Your Battery should be able to put out at least twice the Starter Draw. Because you see, at Zero degrees the Starter will draw 200% of the Starter Draw.. And if your Battery can't handle that high of a load. Then it's junk...
But that's jut me though.. Do whatever you want..
If you've got a TEg, it needs at least a 410 CCA BAttery.. I bought a 490 CCA just to be safe..
But unlike the other dude, I don't think you've got a Dead Cell in your Battery. You might have a Shorted Cell because Batteries don't have Dead Cells.. Because how can it be dead?.. It was never alive..
But I doubt it's a Shorted Cell.. But if want to test it.. Take your Trusty Multimeter and get a Voltage REading from the Battery.. But before doing so.. Make sure that it is fully charged and that you've gotten rid of the Surface Charge on it. To get rid of the Surface Charge, turn off the Engine and turn on your headlights for about one minute and then shut them off and wait another minute.. Now check the Voltage at the Battery. If you've got something like 12.4V to 12.6V, then you don't have a Shorted Cell.. But if you got a reading like 10V or so, then you've got a Shorted Cell, not a Dead Cell..
But what I think you should do is take your car in to a shop and have them do a Starter Draw Test and a Load Test on your Battery. Your Battery should be able to put out at least twice the Starter Draw. Because you see, at Zero degrees the Starter will draw 200% of the Starter Draw.. And if your Battery can't handle that high of a load. Then it's junk...
But that's jut me though.. Do whatever you want..
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