So I rebuilt my trans with new syncs and sleeves and it just started grinding my 2nd gear. I've had a gut feeling my clutch was not engaging completely so I set my launch control at 7,500rpm and pushed my clutch all the way in and revved it while the car lurched forward a little bit.


I went home and adjusted the clutch pedal out a little, went out to do it again, and same thing. Now I'm at the point where the pedal is pretty much adjusted out completely and the car still lurches forward when I rev it up.


I've bled the clutch line twice, I've got a fairly new OEM clutch master cylinder, and an O'reillys slave cylinder. Am I going to have to look into a new clutch?


I've got a spec stage 2 pressure plate and act stage 1 disk. The old spec disk popped a spring out.



Any suggestions? TIA

 

Bump

 

From my knowledge, its not a good idea to mix and match pressure plates and disks. Especially mixing brands and stages. Though they are made for the same car, one manufacturer may use a different design that changes the air gap between between the disk, pp and flywheel.

What sort of shape is your clutch fork in? A worn or bent clutch fork can cause this. Did you carefully inspect and clean the splines on the input shaft prior to installing the disk? Did you use grease on the input shaft? Did you ensure the clutch disc slid freely on the input shaft. Did you torque the pressure plate bolts to specification and use loc tite? How well did the trans install go? Was the insertion of the input shaft into the clutch go smoothly? Did the trans ever hang with the shaft in the clutch?

Bleeding the clutch can be a major pain, especially when you do it the old two person, bottle and hose way. I have spent a ton of time before trying to get a clutch system bled with no prevail only to have it bleed all the air out all of the sudden. I find a good trick is to manually operate the clutch slave piston by pumping it with the system closed and the reservoir cap off, you will see a lot of air work out through the fluid in the reservoir. Make sure the pedal is up and properly adjusted. You should set the max height that you want the pedal to rest and return at by adjusting the push-rod and setting the stopper. Then set your desired free-play with the push-rod. You should have some free play, there is a spec for this but in your case your going to want to have a minimal amount.

 

Are there any other clutch symptoms? Chattering, harsh engagement? Also, a small possibility that there is motor oil contaminating the friction material, though that would cause more chatter than anything.

 

Clutch fork was great condition, we moderately greased the imput shaft, I've seen what happens when you overly grease it so we tried to steer clear from it. Pressure plate bolts weren't exactly to spec but all were loc tited. The trans did at one point sit on the clutch for a second while we were sliding it into place. It seems like i've always had this problem. It didn't take long for my gsr trans from HMO to grind and obliterate the syncs, then my b16 trans I purchased shifted very smoothly but after a few thousand miles the trans started grinding as well. Then I figured out I had an adjustment problem on the pedal so I adjusted it out a little which took some of the "scratch/grind" between shifting away but shortly came back.

The clutch used to vibrate really bad if you slipped it at the wrong spot, since I've adjusted the pedal out I haven't gotten it to do it gain. Also, before I adjusted the pedal out more the engagement was harsh, like there was no slipping point between gears most of the time.. It's like you could never get a good feel for the clutch so shifting between gears wasn't ever smooth. No oil is on the friction material I'm sure of, the motor is still fresh and doesn't leak anything. I've had oil contaminated disks and they made a squeal noise I'm familiar with.

 

Any other questions I can answer? They're all mumbled together, if you need more clarification just lmk

 

so i need to purchase a new clutch?

 

ttt