It is fianaly time the stock clutch is giveing out, and fast.

I have a 2000 civic si with:
jackson racing supercharger and other things giving it HP to the tune of 208 at the wheels.

I will be useing this clutch for daily driving and some auto cross. I will also want to replace the flywheel at this time, in favor of a lighter one.

I would like to know what you all would recomend, and if you have a step by step instructions on how to do the install, I have never changed the clutch on a FWD car.

Any advice would be mutch apricated

Alos if you know any palce to get a good deal I would like to haear about it.


Thanks, Take your pick
Conan





[Modified by Ski2001, 6:26 AM 1/4/2003]

 

bump

 

A Helms manual is your friend. It will come in handy, trust me.

 

Check out the how-to at http://www.c-speedracing.com

 

Yeah, if you're handy with your car then the C-Speedracing site should be fine. A Helms is definitely helpful though. I finally tested out my CM's Stg. 4 at the track and it felt great, showed me I need to address traction and wheel hop now . If you drag race more and just want something lighter and cheap, think about a Type R flywheel

 

Always gotta say for ACT... If you want a light close to stock pedal then I would just go with an ACT HD and a 6-puck disk... For a bit harder pedal and more clamping power the Xtreme with a 6-puck disk... And for a pretty heavy pedal and a lots and lots (more than you'll need) of clamping power the ACT Maxx Extreme with a 6-puck disk... Those Clutchmaster flywheels seem to work well but I haven't had good experiences with their clutches... If you got ~$1300 to drop check out the Tilton line up... Those clutches are meant to hold back a lot more power tho.. ~400whp+ but they do look cool!!!!! Latez

 

Well i have an Action 6puck dual diaphragm 3000lb pressure plate i got from Rocket, here on HT
i LOVE IT. engages almost like stock and holds like a ****. the clutch was going to be for my turbo b16 (250~ to the wheels to start) but im now selling my car.

I can get you a decent price on it, just let me know send me an IM

 

get ACT flywheel and clutch set.
Heavy Duty with Street Disk for smooth engagement or 6 puck for max power

 

Here are some things that you might want to know.
I replaced a clutch on a b18c1 so it should be very similar.

the clutch plate has 10mm 12 point bolts
the flywheel has 17mm 12 point bolts

If you get a aluminum flywheel and new clutch kit, you may need a few extra 10mm bolts - aftermarket may use more bolts than stock clutch uses.

It is a good idea to apply some thread locker to the flywheel bolts when using a new aluminum flywheel. You dont want to redo the whole job because the bolts come loose. Blue thread locker should work fine. Red thread locker is a high temp compound and will probably be a big pain if you ever want to replace the flywheel again.

Apply grease to the shift fork and the throwout bearing shaft. It may be squeaky/noisy if you dont.

Removing the shift linkage pin may be a pain. Simple solution, you can disconnect the linkage at the shifter end.

Seperating the ball joints can be a pain. Simple solution, unbolt 3 bolts on the other end of the control arm.

When putting the tranny case back on, use a jack and a couple of buddies to line it all up. This was the most tedious part of the whole swap imo.

hth

 

All good tips so far.

The service manual is your friend, I can't repeat that enough. The tranny is about 50 lbs so a couple people can remove it, but you'll need a jack to put it back. An engine hoist would make it even easier if you are so lucky. Take your time lining the splines up, and a clutch alignment tool is essential. And make sure your jack lifts the car high enough. Notice in this photo I had to dig a little trench to get the tranny out from under the car

 

i wish it was 50lbs, B-series trannies weight at around 100lbs or so. D-series are at 80lbs or so. lining up the tranny is indeed a bitch and require at least 2 peeps to go smoothly...

 

Really? Well, I didn't actually weigh it but I don't think it was 100lbs. In any event, one person on top and bottom was sufficient to drop it.

 

Very true on many of these things, I'll share my ideas from experience.
1. If you are alone and have an idea what you are doing- it can be done. Like Angry Joe said- the tranny only weighs 50 lbs or so. I had someone help guiding the jack when removing but I put everything back by myself with no difficulty (damn friends and family don't wanna help at 11pm )

2. For my balljoints- I just used a BFG (big f'ing hammer) to knock the lower control arm down. Your best bet will be to pull the driver side axle out of the tranny and let the axle and mid shaft dangle, but completely pull the passenger side axle out of the car.

3. Like tilt said- use threadlocker. I used blue.

4. Shift linkage- I prefer to use a 4mm (I believe) socket and an extension which fits the pin perfectly. Once I get it going an AC bolt will knock it right out.

5. I drained my coolant and pulled my radiator out for more room

Otherwise just label everything and keep it seperated. Make you if you do grease the clutch fork (which I didn't, had no problems) you do not get any grease on the throw out bearing surface or clutch surface. My friends at Honda said that contrary to the info that came with the clutch they do not pack the new throw-out bearing. Good luck

 

One other thing, don't bother separating the intermediate and driver's shafts from each other, it's not necessary and I ended up getting 7 stitches trying to do it

 

Thanks for all your help.

Were is a good place to order a ACT clutch online?

 

Contact Rocket on this board. give him a call and he should be able to hook you up. Tell him Nick sent you.

-Nick-