clutch bleed. need help ASAP
#1
clutch bleed. need help ASAP
I have followed every instruction on this that I could find. I have literally been bleeding the clutch in my accord for 12 1/2 hours straight. I have to move halfway a cross the country in a week and have a ton that I need to get done. I need this car on the road NOW. I have checked the entire line master and slave, bleeder valve and reservoir for leaks where air can get in and there is nothing. I have no idea what I'm doing wrong. I have a hose from the bleeder nipple running down into a container filled with just enough fluid to keep the end of the hose under. I push the clutch in all the way, open the bleeder, let fluid run through, close the bleeder, slowly lift the clutch peddle, repeat. I don't let the reservoir run low. I have no help with this so I've been using a brick to hold the clutch peddle down until I've opened and closed the bleeder. I get a little pressure on the clutch but no improvement for a while now. I don't know what I'm doing wrong, I've never done this before. If it isn't done tomorrow then I will miss my deadline and might as well junk the car and move into a homeless shelter since my replacement at work has already been hired.
#2
Honda-Tech Member
Re: clutch bleed. need help ASAP
Call in a favor from a friend and bleed it that way. Pump the pedal 5-10 times, have your friend hold the pedal to the floor without lifting on the last pump. then open the Valve. There are other methods to try as well, take the slave cylinder off and slowly push the plunger in hold it for 10 seconds or so then release. Be sure to keep the slave cylinder as low as possible. why are you bleeding the clutch system anyway.
Last edited by civic-steve-94; 06-08-2016 at 09:58 PM.
#3
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: SF Bay Area, USA
Posts: 327
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: clutch bleed. need help ASAP
The way that I bleed my brakes and clutch is to use a bleeder bottle (like ), and to then out a little brake fluid in the bottle to cover the bottom of the hose, and to then have the bottle somewhat higher than the bleeder screw - so any air that comes out of the bleeder screw flows upward away from the bleeder screw. I open the bleeder screw, and then pump the pedal enough times to see fluid completely filling the line from the bleeder screw to the bottle, and making sure I don't see any air bubbles, and also making sure that I keep enough fresh brake fluid so the master cylinder doesn't go low. I usually don't have anyone to help me, but this usually works fine.
One problem that I recently had, was that the brakes on my 2000 Ford F150 just wouldn't seem to bleed using this method, but I eventually realized that there was enough clearance on the brake bleeder screw threads to allow air to be sucked back in when I let up on the pedal. I then removed the bleeder screws and put a little Teflon tape on the threads, and the brakes then bled great,
I also had an issue with my clutch master cylinder where if I let the car sit for a while, then the clutch pedal would basically go to the floor when I first pushed it, but it would eventually pump up and start working, but then again have problems after it sat too long. I put on a new master cylinder, and that solved that issue. - Jim
One problem that I recently had, was that the brakes on my 2000 Ford F150 just wouldn't seem to bleed using this method, but I eventually realized that there was enough clearance on the brake bleeder screw threads to allow air to be sucked back in when I let up on the pedal. I then removed the bleeder screws and put a little Teflon tape on the threads, and the brakes then bled great,
I also had an issue with my clutch master cylinder where if I let the car sit for a while, then the clutch pedal would basically go to the floor when I first pushed it, but it would eventually pump up and start working, but then again have problems after it sat too long. I put on a new master cylinder, and that solved that issue. - Jim
#4
Re: clutch bleed. need help ASAP
Well, I'm for sure not removing the slave cylinder. It was too much a pain in the ads to get in. After about 16 hours I got enough air out that it's drivable. I still have to toe up the clutch but only that last bit after the clutch engages. It shifts just a tad rough, but just at tad bit. The clutch fully engages and disengages. I'm assuming this means I don't have that much more to go. How much air can a few feet of 4mm line have in it?
#5
Old Fart
Join Date: May 2004
Location: kelowna, bc, canada
Posts: 26,173
Likes: 0
Received 14 Likes
on
14 Posts
Re: clutch bleed. need help ASAP
Your problem may be the piston seal in the master clutch cylinder, a problem I had on my 94 RS, I did the bleed for an hour when a friend that was helping noticed fluid on the carpet just below the clutch pedal.
I stuck my head up there with a light and sure enough the pin off the lever goin into the master clutch cylinder was "wet" with fluid.
I replaced the master clutch cylinder and the problem was solved. 94
I stuck my head up there with a light and sure enough the pin off the lever goin into the master clutch cylinder was "wet" with fluid.
I replaced the master clutch cylinder and the problem was solved. 94
#6
Re: clutch bleed. need help ASAP
I replaced the master along with the slave so both are new. I think I solved the problem though. Air was seeping in from the hydrolic line where the flairnut connects to the slave. My roommate tried to help hold the slave cylinder from above while I threaded the bolts from below and she bent the he'll out of the hydrolic line making it he'll to connect. I got it back in place but it didn't seal right. All that time I was just adding more air to the system every time I lifted up on the clutch. I used a little liquid gasket to seal it up since it was the top of the flare nut and not through the threads. I also used thread tape on the bleeder nipple for good measure. I bought a vaccuum bleeder from harbor freight and got most the job done but had to go to work. I'll finish up tomorrow. I did drive the car today and though you can tell there is some air in the line it drove ok. Now I gotta see why the AC I fixed isn't working. Good thing there's a post about that next to this one.
Someone told me that on a Honda you can gravity bleed the system by loosening the bleeder nipple, ginger tighten it and leave the car overnight and it will bleed itself. He's a mechanic for the county so he should know what he's talking about but something about that doesn't seem right. Anyone have any insight on that. If I wasn't on a tight schedule I'd try it but I just can't afford to let air in the system again if it doesn't work. He said it will only empty your reservoir half way but again, can't risk it right now testing it. Maybe after the move.
Someone told me that on a Honda you can gravity bleed the system by loosening the bleeder nipple, ginger tighten it and leave the car overnight and it will bleed itself. He's a mechanic for the county so he should know what he's talking about but something about that doesn't seem right. Anyone have any insight on that. If I wasn't on a tight schedule I'd try it but I just can't afford to let air in the system again if it doesn't work. He said it will only empty your reservoir half way but again, can't risk it right now testing it. Maybe after the move.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
KRAP DIVAD
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
2
09-04-2005 05:10 PM