My AC has never been cold, so I decided to do a "walmart self-charge kit". I charged it using that, and noticed it made my AC pretty cold - however, as I was putting stuff away the engine started to "choke".

After more testing, this is what happens when I turn the AC on(minimum or full blast) - a high-pitched noise comes from passenger side and my engine starts to idle real low and I lose a lot of power...then the noise goes away and I get the engine power back...then it switches on again, etc.

Is this the compressor shitting itself? Strange because I charged it successfully and got my AC cold, then this started happening and the AC is warm once again.

 

I'm not super knowledgable with ac but with that said, theres a reason your 1:suppose to use guages and 2:pull a vacuum on the system to check for leaks and evacuate any moisture, those kits are a quick cheap fix. Your system is probably overcharged and its causing problems for your compressor. It's warm again because you most likely have a leak somewhere. The switchin on and off again is probably some type of pressure switch to regulate and protect the system.

 

Ditto the above^^^
Please tell me you did not use Red Tek or any other hydrocarbon based product.

It sounds like an over-charge, cold at first then warm, compressor noise and cycling, an over-charge will result in cold air at first and as head pressure goes up air temp. will warm up, [cooling is lost with high head pressures].

As mentioned, the only correct way to charge the A/C system is to recover any refrigerant in the system, do a nitrogen pressure check for leaks, a min. 45 minutes on a vacuum pump to boil off any moisture, then recharge with proper amount of refrigerant, [R134a] probably 16oz in your Civic.

Need more info on what exactly happens. 94

 

I used some charge kit from Walmart, EZ Charge or something.

I charged it barely to the "acceptable" amount - so I don't really think it's an overcharge. Here's what is happening at idle:

1) turn on ac, any speed, it does get colder than outside air
2) idle drops real low for a few seconds, and a high-pitched noise comes from passenger side
3) idle shoots back up to normal, and the noise goes away

If I'm driving:
1) same as above
2) engine feels like it's under stress, car slows down a little and lags, noise comes from passenger side
3) noise goes away, car returns to normal power

What is the sound coming from the passenger side?

 

Not sure what that sound is, [blenddoor motor maybe].

Does the A/C clutch engage when you turn on the A/C?
Does it stay engaged, [is it still engaged when engine RPMs go back up to normal]?

This stuff... http://www.id-usa.com/product.asp?CID=27&PID=20

Or this... http://www.brightsautocentre.co.uk/Aircon.htm

Either way, both contain sealers, that are not good for the system, tend to plug up the expansion valve, refrigerant will not circulate, head pressure will go up fast and put drag on engine, then the compressor will turn off.

So watch the compressor and have someone turn on the A/C, see if compressor stays on. 94

 

Like this..http://www.brightsautocentre.co.uk/Aircon.htm

I'll have to check if compressor says on, it sounds like it turns on/off (almost lift shifting gears)

What would be the best way to address this you think..most affordable?

 

At this point there is no way to know, will need to find out what the problem is first.

If engine bogs when compressor engages and then compressor disengages, the problem may be the compressor, [going west] expansion valve, [plugged] or an overcharge, [high head pressure].

The link is broken, but if it is like the ones I linked it will contain the sealers and possibly hydrocarbons that will contaminate the system.

Let me know what the compressor does. 94

 

check for leaks