check engine light came on
i have a 94 c1 and i was cruising normally and my check engine light came on. is there anything that normally makes that happen on the c1? whats most common? kinda freaks me out since it only has 5k.
thanks for any help
thanks for any help
If you're dealing with a Teg or Civic chassis short (run a wire from one pin to the other) the SCS connector (it'll "should" be inside of a little green rubber pouch) on the passenger side of the car tucked up towards the right side of the glove box... It will be the 2 pin connector... Then your CEL in your gauge cluster will flash a series of numbers... long pulses represent the 10ths place (10's) where as short pulses represent (1's)... So if you've never done this before let it run through a couple times and double check your numbers... For instance if you get a "long_long_short_short_short" then you have a "10+10+1+1+1" which gives you a total of 23... Once you get the number repost and I should be able to tell ya what the CEL is up for... Good Luck and let me know if you need anything else...
Oh okay, that's even easier... I assume it's running a nonOBD ECU but if it's converted to OBD1 then it's going to be a little more complicated... Pull back the carpet on the passenger side under the dash and look at the ECU, if you're running a PW0 or PR3 (the two nonOBD DOHC VTEC ECU's) you'll see a little red LED on the top which blinks the exact same way as an OBDI/II car does through the cluster... Read it the same way and get back to us if that's what you have... If not and it's converted to OBD1, let me know and I'll tell you which wire to run to ground, this will activate the CEL in your Rex's cluster... Again good luck...
haha, I gave you a 23 as an example because that's a common code that comes on when you're driving if your knock sensor isn't hooked up... First check to see if you even have a KS, if you do then check the wiring... It's always possible there could be a break in the wire (To test this I use a DMM with a continuity test)... And if everything checks out good I would first try testing another KS and second try swapping ECU's... If you are unsure of where the KS is located it will be high up on the middle of the back side of the block under the IN manifold, it's the only single wire sensor back there besides the oil pressure sender...
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It should be only a single wire connector but then again some people use a two pin connector (as it has the same clip) and only use one of the wires for the signal... Could you possibly take any pics??? That's always the easiest way for me to see what's going on... If not then I would just try tracing wires... The thing about the connector that you found is that if both wires are wired up then it's not the right plug...
ok well both are wired up. teh black is going to the same little harness that the tranny is and ect. the other goes in through the dash.
if your facing the car head on its more on the right side of teh block under the mani. i coudl find anything else there. i really can't see underneath and cant really reach back there as well but i'll look again.
if your facing the car head on its more on the right side of teh block under the mani. i coudl find anything else there. i really can't see underneath and cant really reach back there as well but i'll look again.
The other end of the wire should trace to pin B19 at the ECU... Like I said just use a DMM with a continuity setting (I would stick one end in B19 then probe the wires connectors you think may be for your KS)... Since a KS didn't come wired in your car there are a couple ways whoever installed it could have done it, if they were **** like me both harnesses (interior and engine) would have been completely stripped of loom, I would have run the wire inside of it, then completely wrapped it up making it look just like OE... If they didn't give a **** about how it looked (most people aren't like me) you can simply run a wire throught the firewall somewhere connecting one end to the B19 and the other to the KS connector... Ignore most of the info on this diagram (sorry, I'm just using it because I made it a LONG time ago)... It was mainly for converting from DPI to MPI and adding a KS in...
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