<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by P1mpSlap &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Some people end up spending hella money on nitrous.

Like to do it right:
Remote bottle opener
Ignition system to retard timing inside the car
bottle wamer
Nitrous mastermind controller
etc... **** adds up

The boosted SOHC might not be all that bad. lol </TD></TR></TABLE>

Why a remote bottle opener? Also I would just get a Hondata instead of a nitrous mastermind controller and a MSD with ignition retard. I would just get the regular MSD 6A for a better spark maybe. I guarantee the extras you can buy for nitrous would cost alot less than the extras you need for the turbo such as: intercooler, blow off valve, standalone management, MSD, etc.

 

My friend Mike (jdmDXrex) best ET when his '88 Rex had a STOCK B16A (I mean stock airbox, header (open tho), stock cams, no sprockets, PR3 ECU, I guess he had his ACT clutch and MT 20x6x14 slicks) at 20 degrees of timing on 110 was a 13.62@101... That's full interior too, not that a Rex ways all that much... He's 130lbs and at this NHRA event his car and him weighed in at 2045lbs... A lot of people don't believe us for some reason but oh well... That's probably the absolute cheapest... My other friend got his '95 Si hatch 5 years ago when he was 14, the next year he dropped a B18C1 w/ little stuff intake, DC header (open too), ACT clutch, and the same slicks... His best full interior was a 13.75@100 but the car weighs a lot more... That was like four years ago, haha He got it down to a 13.03@103 with just a CTR IN cam, sprockets, and his P28 but the car got jacked and the ******* stole his motor, so it's time to go F/I... hehe Good Luck, it's not hard at all...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kataku2K3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My friend Mike (jdmDXrex) best ET when his '88 Rex had a STOCK B16A (I mean stock airbox, header (open tho), stock cams, no sprockets, PR3 ECU, I guess he had his ACT clutch and MT 20x6x14 slicks) at 20 degrees of timing on 110 was a 13.62@101... That's full interior too, not that a Rex ways all that much... He's 130lbs and at this NHRA event his car and him weighed in at 2045lbs... A lot of people don't believe us for some reason but oh well... That's probably the absolute cheapest... My other friend got his '95 Si hatch 5 years ago when he was 14, the next year he dropped a B18C1 w/ little stuff intake, DC header (open too), ACT clutch, and the same slicks... His best full interior was a 13.75@100 but the car weighs a lot more... That was like four years ago, haha He got it down to a 13.03@103 with just a CTR IN cam, sprockets, and his P28 but the car got jacked and the ******* stole his motor, so it's time to go F/I... hehe Good Luck, it's not hard at all...</TD></TR></TABLE>

I believe Mista Bone ran 13.02 with ZEX, a Kaaz LSD, MSD 6AL, and some slicks with his D16Z6. It was faster and probably about $800 cheaper than your B16 swap in a CRX. So I guess nitrous is still the absolute cheapest. Someone else on here named Singlecam Screamer ran 12.7 with his D16Z6 on a 60 shot. I'm not sure of the complete details of his setup though.

Also the 20 degrees of timing probably hurt performance acually. Advancing the ignition too far causes a loss of performance.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hybridvteceg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">not better than a 75 shot. thats instant 175 or so WHp, when the greddy kit, unintercooled is more like 150-170</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thats a greddy kit at stock psi, Who does that ??? And Im just saying SOHC turbo period. The greddy kit is the easy route if you have never put a turbo kit together before and you wanna keep it simple. 10 Psi intercooled and tuned is good for at least 200whp with decent torque for a honda, if you got traction 13's will be no sweat. If do all the options you''ll want to do with nitrous like p1mpslap said, bottle warmer, purge kit, pressure gauges, bottle opener, the price is equal to a junkyard turbo kit with some decent options.

 

Yea, that's true... As you have all said NITROUS will always be the cheapest... It does make good power but due to oxidizing nature when mixed with gas it burns extremely hot and for a long time... This over time will kill rings (especially OE) there's no way around it... You don't have as much of a problem even with high compression N/A... As for the timing how do you figure 20 degrees of static timing was too much??? From the time you launch till the time you let off your car is above that anyway, more likely around 40 degrees of advance... Yes too much advance is bad and will cause detonation, etc. but I just don't totally understand how you can say 20 is too much when on the high cam timing maps you go waaaaaaaay above that... Peace

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by omahaturbocivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> If do all the options you''ll want to do with nitrous like p1mpslap said, bottle warmer, purge kit, pressure gauges, bottle opener, the price is equal to a junkyard turbo kit with some decent options.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not a burning chance in hell. The nitrous will be cheaper no matter what. Especially if you want to start comparing your junkyard turbo, which probably consists of mostly used parts, so here is what the nitrous could be setup for then with used parts.
Zex kit......................$300 used
Bottle Warmer............$100
Purge kit....................$100
Fuel pressure guage....$30
FPR...........................$120

Can you piece together a junkyard turbo for $650?
Turbos are a better setup in the long run, I can't argue against that. They are more capable than nitrous, but nitrous is always going to be cheapest horsepower.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kataku2K3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yea, that's true... As you have all said NITROUS will always be the cheapest... It does make good power but due to oxidizing nature when mixed with gas it burns extremely hot and for a long time... This over time will kill rings (especially OE) there's no way around it... You don't have as much of a problem even with high compression N/A... As for the timing how do you figure 20 degrees of static timing was too much??? From the time you launch till the time you let off your car is above that anyway, more likely around 40 degrees of advance... Yes too much advance is bad and will cause detonation, etc. but I just don't totally understand how you can say 20 is too much when on the high cam timing maps you go waaaaaaaay above that... Peace</TD></TR></TABLE>

Oh sorry, I wasn't thinking static timing, I thought you meant ignition.

I have been running nitrous for a little over a year at a 75 shot and my rings are fine so far. I will be using JE rings with my 125 shot build up however, because yes nitrous does destroy rings and ringlands.