okay so my friend decided to rebuild himself an ITR ...bought a 2000 ITR shell (completely stripped down to the bones) and build it from there...now here the problems

car won't start!!

no check engine light
has fuel in the injectors/fuel rail
distributor is fine
car does crank
99 engine wiring harness (checked the wires all same as 00-01)

therefore, no power going to the injectors

would this have anything to do with the immobilizer?
he bought a complete set of immobilizer/keys/ignition switch from the dealer (which is the original one for the car)
but the ECU is not the same one (bought it off a H-T member)

any help would be great...hate to see a nice itr sitting in the garage and not able to drive it...!!!!
if need anymore details/specs let me know

oh yeah if i help him fix it i get to drive it too

 

what year is the ECU? does the CEL go off after 2 seconds of the key being on the ON position?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbogixxer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what year is the ECU? does the CEL go off after 2 seconds of the key being on the ON position?</TD></TR></TABLE>

the ECU is 00 or 01 i forgot which (im sure either one will work)

and yes the check engine light (CEL) goes off after 2 second

 

You need the Keys/Imoblizer,and ecu the are a matched set Acura does however have a specal code to disarm the imobilizer...

 

What does the immobilizer light do? Is it on steady or is it flashing?

 

I remember reading an article in SCC mag in the past about the security measures on the newer (2000+)cars. If I remember correctly, when doing swaps, the ECU and the key/immobilizer have to match -

I believe you have to go to a dealer, show them the reciept of the legal purchase of the engine, and they'll make sure the immobilizer/ECU will agree with each other - (don't know if they make new keys ???)

That article in Sport Compact Car was for a newer CTR I believe -

Good Luck -
Tom

 

i called the dealer again and they said that the whole car would have to be brought in so they can reprogram the immobilizer/key/ignition switch to work with the ecu...for 86 dollars..but the car is about 60 miles from the dealer!!!
anyone else has a better solution or an easier way?
no the dealer wont reprogrammer it if we just bring in the immobilizer and ecu....

 

theres someon here on this board that posted a while back that they could disable the immobilizer in the ecu so u wouldnt have that problem. im not sure who it was though

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nextelbuddy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">theres someon here on this board that posted a while back that they could disable the immobilizer in the ecu so u wouldnt have that problem. im not sure who it was though</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes i read about that but i also read somewhere that its a pain in the *** to start the car w/out the immobilizer ..you got to key on key off etc...of course its cheaper but my friend wants it to be exactly like "stock"...he spent way less than how much a typical 00 itr would cost anyways

 

katman can disable an immobilizer, but it will always throw a CEL every time the car is started with code "internal circuit failure" because the ECU knows the immob has been disabled. just tell your friend to get an obd2--&gt;obd1 conversion harness, and a chipped P28 ECU and he'll be good to go. otherwise the dealer is your only option.

 

why don't you just disable it long enough to get it to the dealer, then re-enable it and have them fix it?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by YumVTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">katman can disable an immobilizer, but it will always throw a CEL every time the car is started with code "internal circuit failure" because the ECU knows the immob has been disabled. just tell your friend to get an obd2--&gt;obd1 conversion harness, and a chipped P28 ECU and he'll be good to go. otherwise the dealer is your only option.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah i read about katman here and on jdmhondaparts.com
my friend is thinking about getting rid of the immobilizer...cheaper i guess

thanks for all the help!!!

 

Looks like the problem is most likely fixed. Keep us posted.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ion_four &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why don't you just disable it long enough to get it to the dealer, then re-enable it and have them fix it?</TD></TR></TABLE>
once you immobilize an ecu thats it. no more fixing it. you have to buy a new one if you want the immobilizer again.


and as for converting to OBDI i would suggest against this. it will make the car emissions illegal and will never pass.

just suck it up and get it to the dealership some how.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SLOW4drINTEG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
no the dealer wont reprogrammer it if we just bring in the immobilizer and ecu.... </TD></TR></TABLE>
It's not so much they wont do it, they can't do it without the car. They have to plug their scantool into the DLC.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chiovnidca &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
It's not so much they wont do it, they can't do it without the car. They have to plug their scantool into the DLC.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah thats what they told us...i guess we going to bring the car to the riverside dealer...since the car is around there

thanks for all the help!!