2000 hatch/ OBD2 JDM GSR Swap/ OBD1 P72
The other day I was driving and started losing power on the freeway. I made it home but the next morning the car wouldn't start. The car has been cranking but won't start. I had the battery tested and recharged. I took the alternator to get tested but noone around here could test it w/ it outta the car.

Today I put the alternator back in and me, my father, and rtpassini went through it. The fuel pump was turning on, no fuses were blown. We took off one of the spark plug wires from the dizzy cap and used a screwdriver to see if we could get spark and there was nothing.........

So...today I found out I have no spark. Can I put my money on my dizzy being bad...The wires, cap, rotor were all replaced about 3 months ago with my swap .
Is it my dizzy or should I be looking at the coil/ignitor?

I also was wondering about anyone that has dealt with Distributor King saw a lot of positive things about'em in other things?......

Luckily I can use my mom's car this next week...but would like this solved ASAP

 

I would be looking more into the wiring going TO the dizzy instead of the dizzy itself...who did your swap? Wouldn't hurt to double and triple check all the wiring from ecu/engine etc before going out and blowing money on a new dizzy.

 

I did the swap....the swap has been near perfect for 3 months......not sure which wiring would have fell apart going to the dizzy?...I swapped plugs and matched wires up correctly....My car just cranks and doesn't start and found there's no spark....so thinking it's like the igniter or coil inside of the dizzy?

 

Like honda_power69, recheck the wiring.

Take the cap off and check for red dust. Red dust = bad bearings. Honda dizzys have problems with bearings going bad. Take the dizzy off and check for play in the shaft.

 

take ur dist cap off
and visuallly inspect
the rotor screw may have came off!!!

or a wire may have broke if not check the coil
turn the key to on and tap a wire from ground to the neg on the coil
(but first put a spark plug wire on the coil to the valve cover and shove a screw driver in there again)

 

Well, inside the cap is fine...no dust no signs of wear. the rotor was intact. I'll have to take the dizzy off and look at the shaft. How much play should there be?......

Also could you say more about tapping this wire?....purpose?.....

 

to check the ignition coil.
ur giving it a signal to spark when u tap and release it sparks when u release.
if its still good it will spark.

 

so i'm just taking a wire grounding one end and touching the negative on the coil and it should spark with the key in the on position

 

I also have a multimeter here....isn't there some readings I should take with it....i forgot where i read what the current should be

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zm_dawg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so i'm just taking a wire grounding one end and touching the negative on the coil and it should spark with the key in the on position</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes
don t forget to put the spark plug wire on the coil r ur asking 4 a nice suprise

 

alright I tested the ignitor on the two terminals and there is voltage there and I also checked the resistance which checked out at .8 ohms and 17.4 k ohms which both checked out for the required specs.........I need this car to run i'm unsure of what to do next...
also should the positive battery lead to the alternator have voltage w/o car on?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zm_dawg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
also should the positive battery lead to the alternator have voltage w/o car on?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes

 

you get my PM.....or go on AIM

 

bro i didn t even get ur pm
but i just pm u back so u can im me

 

maybe u should go threw and rewire it because maybe something is touching or messing up u never know but like if you havent done it yet thats wat id do.

 

a guy on my team had the same problem and we just re-wired it and it ran like a charm. hasnt messed up yet so maybe thats wats wrong

 

what r u talking about?
rewire what?

zm dawg
found the problem no spark!
but needs to track it.

 

was gonna go check for spark at the coil by grounding a wire to it.....but it's all rainy and ****

I'm gonna get new spark plug wires and spark plugs but don't think this would cause the car to not start at all

 

could it be anythin with my ECU...i got a conversion harness to OBD1 p72

 

i think its the coil

 

and i'll know this by groudning a wire to the terminal with the yellow/black or yellow/blue

 

should I just ground a wire to the primary winder........and expect sparks......this along with new spark plug wires and plugs.......are my last effort then i'm taking it in.........i can't figure this out.......

 

u need to ground the primary
but plug a spark plug wire to the coil
and attach a spark plug to it then lay it on top of the valve cover

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PrettyLude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i think its the coil</TD></TR></TABLE>

or ignitor.

Can you be a little more specific than "loosing power." Did you notice your tach doing anything funny like jumping around. Also did your power losses come in spurts or were you just down on power all together? You can basicly say it is your dizzy thats giving you problems. You aren't running any aftermarket ignition are you?

 

no aftermarket ignition......and I don't recall my tach doin anything....once I got off of the highway in the city i downshifted into 2nd 2 times and tach would just go to 5k and wouldn't go farther....i'll be testing the coil in a little bit