Hey guys.. Hope someone can help me out here.
I have a 2000 Integra Gsr.

My Car does not have power when I try to start it. CEL code 20 Electrical load detector is present.

My battery is brand new, maybe a week old if that so not sure what the cause is
I bump started it and the car was fine. I checked my alternator, starter signal, meter, battery fuses. all were fine. My hazard fuse keeps blowing not sure if that may have anything to do with it. I bumped started my car again and disconnected both terminals, and my car still ran, so I believe my alternator is still good.

Today I want to try getting my car running but not sure were to start. Ive noticed that when i turn the key to the "on" position, the Right side of the cluster (parking brake, abs and seatbelt lights) are bright.... but the left side (oil, CEL and battery light) are very dull.
When I try to start it nothing happens, its as if my foot is NOT on the clutch when i try to start it..

Maybe someone has experience with this and could help me out. Thanks!

 

The Electrical Load Detector (ELD) is mounted on the bottom of the engine bay fuse box. You usually have to replace the whole fuse box to fix it.

 

oh really? okay. im gonna look now.. Any idea where I can get one?

 

For brand new OEM Honda try www.hondaautomotiveparts.com. Otherwise you can check parts stores or the cheapest option is a used one either from a parts/salvage yard or a private seller here on HT or some other classified.

 

ok, i checked it out and its making a ticking noise from there. som im pretty sure thats the problem. Im gonna check a scrap yard tomorrow or something. Thanks alot for your help!

 

No problem, that's what we're here for. Be sure to disconnect the negative battery cable prior to any electrical work. Before you replace the fuse box, you should check for shorts in the electrical system. If a short caused the ELD to go out, you don't want it ruining one you just bought. Disconnect both battery terminals and use a meter to check the resistance across the harness-side connectors. Anything but infinite ohms (what is on the screen when set to resistance and when the probes aren't touching anything) is a drain on the battery and possibly a shorted wire if the resistance is low enough. The head unit memory and any clock memory will be a drain. You can disconnect them if you want to be sure of where a drain is coming from. Checking the hazard lights circuits for a short would be a good idea as well. It's a bit arduous checking circuits, especially if everything turns out to be fine, but you're taking a risk otherwise.

 

If engine runs fine when "bump" starting, try a "by-pass jump" start.

Using a jumper wire, [12ga min.] connect one end to batt. pos.(+), unplug starter lead from starter solenoid and touch other end of jumper lead to solenoid terminal.

BE CAREFUL, make sure car is not in gear and set the hand brake, if starter and solenoid are good, engine will crank even if ign. switch is off or car is in gear.

A problem with the ELD would not prevent engine from cranking, starting maybe but not cranking. 94

 

The ELD isn't your only problem which is why I suggested you check for shorts. If you find any electrical problems, repair them and try out the old fuse box before you replace it. Personally, I would lean toward fixing the cause of your CEL before moving on to diagnosing other problems. The process of repairing what triggers the CEL often sheds some light on what is causing other problems.