EDIT: problem solved, it turned out to be the Ignitor inside the distributor!
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WELL, I fixed my charging problem,
car worked coo for 2 days, then it went kaput!

I was getting some hesitation/sputting, it came and went,
usually after some heated driving/boosting.

then the other day I took the car to go get it washed,
the hesitation showed up, then it got really bad and the car just straight died on me.
Now it will start up just fine, and will sometimes hold idle.
But if I try to drive it, it'll sputter and stall. (sometimes it'll just die while idling too)

It's quick short jerks where it loses power, feels like hitting the rev limiter, but at lower rpms. Usually partial throttle.

I have no CEL's, i'm getting fuel. I checked the cap/rotor, they look ok.
And the dizzy itself, with the cap off looks very good, all the internals are like new,
i see no metal flakes.. or powder anything in there.
I have a JRSC running the JR fmu, and thought maybe the fmu was the problem,
but I removed the fmu and it still does it.

Any clue? My plugs are pretty new, wires look good,
but i have new oem wires, and a new fuel filter on the way.
fuel filter has unknown mileage on it.

Anyone out there have similar symptoms? if so LMK what your problem was.

P.S. I want to make sure whether or not it could be this, i've been driving on a
shitty Throw out bearing for a while, it squeaks alot with the clutch out.
But I can get into/outa gear and shift just fine.

THANKS!


Modified by Tad at 6:20 PM 12/18/2004

 

up

 

Try and test the factory fuel pressure regulator or replace it if you have an extra. Also if your v-tec isn't working properly it will make it seem like your rev limiter is much lower than it should be. Low oil levels will lower the oil pressure and v-tec willl not engage. Check the v-tec solinoid wire and make sure it is intact. Good luck

 

i get no vtec cels though, and it dies are partial throttle and low rpms(sub 3k)
and even idle sometimes, so I dont think vtec is the problem.

I do have another fpr i can try.
I'll give that a shot!
thanks

 

up 4 more ideas.

 

Check your TPS. I had that problem on a CRX with a JDM B16. Found out the TPS was bad. If you know how and can, check the voltage at the TPS. At closed throttle it should be around .5 volts. WOT should be at 5 volts. Now remember that it wont be exactly at that voltage, but it should be very close. Also are you using a reprogramed ECU, or VAFC? If you are using a ACF, make sure that it is setup right. I am not talking about the fuel enrichment, but make sure that the sensor input/output is set to 6 (on both) and it shows 4cly and the arrow pointing up and to the right. Other than that, make sure your oil level is fine. If anything else, I would say the ignitor in the dizzy is going out. Check those and holla back.

 

i had a similar problem, found out my car was running way lean. got part throttle tuned, and i have no problem now.

 

well I checked my tps.
its at .37 closed, 4.3 open.

so it's not set perfectly, but definetely not completely out of wack. and it ramps up/down smoothly.

I think it's been set like that ever since I put the motor in.. I just got it close and left it at that.

Yeah I guess I've got to try swapping dizzy parts. unfortunately I have no spare map sensor to try.

P.S. i'm not using an AFC,
I have the jackson racing map controller, and FMU and thats it.

 

hey u need a map sensor, i can send you one if you need. i got a spare

 

I would try your dist. sounds like a weak coil or something of that nature,pull a plug wire and see if your spark looks weak if not I would still say its something to do with the dist.Just because it looks good inside doesn't always mean it is.

 

Figured it out!

It tuns out, it was the ignitor, inside the distributor!
I swapped in one out of a dizzy I had from my cx motor this morning, and the problem went away!

Thanks alot to everyone for their input.
looks like I won't be needing that map sensor( props to PrettyLude for offering one up though!).

A few people mentioned the ignitor,
what made me try that first, as opposed to the coil, or entire dizzy, or fuelpump, etc,
was that the car would start up perfect every time, and only after that and a moment, would problems begin to show up.

From what people have mentioned in here, another post, and some searches I did,
other parts of the dizzy going bad would make it hard to start the car.

thanks again!