Car overheats when thermostat is installed
Hi all,
My car has been running without a thermostat for over a year now and I've been reading up on its importance so I went to get a new one fixed in. But when a thermostat is installed, the car overheats!
It only runs fine without one. Besides the point that perhaps (unluckily) that the brand new thermostat is spoilt (din have a chance to test it), does anyone know if there is any other reason for this to happen?
My car has been running without a thermostat for over a year now and I've been reading up on its importance so I went to get a new one fixed in. But when a thermostat is installed, the car overheats!
It only runs fine without one. Besides the point that perhaps (unluckily) that the brand new thermostat is spoilt (din have a chance to test it), does anyone know if there is any other reason for this to happen?
It was installed by my mech and he told me about the problem when I went to collect my car. Hmm, mebe he did. Thanks for the info, at least that's one thing I can look out for.
Have you checked your coolant level? One nasty thing about thermostats is that they make it harder to fill your cooling system without air pockets since they don't let coolant flow all the way through when cold. It could be that your system was nt properly bled. Especially if whoever installed it did not loosen the bleeder screw when filling the radiaotr. Or if your engine does not have one (and some don't).
Hmm... I get what you mean. Another point for me to note. Think I'll go get it fixed this weekend and see if I can highlight these 2 points to them.
Thanks!!
Thanks!!
You don't say what year, but on mine you can't put the T-stat in backwards. It just won't fit. But you CAN get the gasket farbed up around the outside of the T-stat.
When it's cold, squeeze the upper & lower radiator hoses. If there's air bubbles, you should hear it sloshing. The hoses feel different when they're completely full, & all you should hear is a little pin rattling in the thermostat.
When it's cold, squeeze the upper & lower radiator hoses. If there's air bubbles, you should hear it sloshing. The hoses feel different when they're completely full, & all you should hear is a little pin rattling in the thermostat.
Aight, roger that. Will go test for some sloshing...
btw, the car is a 92' Civic VTi (EG9), running B16A2. Mebe I should just put in a B18c, tat should fix the problem if its block related
haha...
btw, the car is a 92' Civic VTi (EG9), running B16A2. Mebe I should just put in a B18c, tat should fix the problem if its block related
haha...
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did your mechanic flush the whole tunnel?
when i install my new thermostat(was using a Mugen, now using SARD) I did a flush to the system. shitload of build-ups came out (can prolly fill up a coke can)..and it did help a lot on water temp..
when i install my new thermostat(was using a Mugen, now using SARD) I did a flush to the system. shitload of build-ups came out (can prolly fill up a coke can)..and it did help a lot on water temp..
I have a '98 accord lx 4cyl and looking into changing the thermostat. I know where the thermostat is located (basically, where the lower radiator hose end at the engine block. However, i am having difficulty removing it. One annoying thing, is the big black pipe that goes from the Air filter to somewhere. If someone have some instuctions from any of the manuals, would be very appreciative. (I am looking for some steps to take).
Thanks in advance
Modified by eauto at 7:44 AM 11/1/2004
Thanks in advance
Modified by eauto at 7:44 AM 11/1/2004
That air intake pipe is easy to take off, that gets it out of the way. There's a metal tube sticking into it, unclamp that & pull it out. The 2nd metal tube that's attached, runs alongside it; that has coolant inside so don't disconnect that. Then there's a big band clamp around it at the throttle body.
I sorta remember one of the thermostat housing bolts wasn't real easy to get to, I had to reach underneath something to get a wrench on it??
I sorta remember one of the thermostat housing bolts wasn't real easy to get to, I had to reach underneath something to get a wrench on it??
U can check the radiator by using a light and see it from the top. If its clogged it can be easily seen.
If it looks bad enough, and you DIDNT use radiator coolant but water. after a while those build ups will start flowing around in your system. EVEN if u use radiator fluid, after a while you should flush it.
just prepare a water hose, disconnect the upper hose from the rad, open the cap.. start the car.. open the water and start pouring it from the top. keep it going to 15 mins, you can actaully see if your fan works.. then after while u could prolly see **** load of brown colour sand looking **** comming out from the disconnected hose. when u feel clean enough, or nothing more is commin out. stop the engine. connect the hose and fill it with regualr radiator fluid. let it run for 10k Km then do a flush again, after that your cars cooling systems efficiency should be wayyy better then before.
If it looks bad enough, and you DIDNT use radiator coolant but water. after a while those build ups will start flowing around in your system. EVEN if u use radiator fluid, after a while you should flush it.
just prepare a water hose, disconnect the upper hose from the rad, open the cap.. start the car.. open the water and start pouring it from the top. keep it going to 15 mins, you can actaully see if your fan works.. then after while u could prolly see **** load of brown colour sand looking **** comming out from the disconnected hose. when u feel clean enough, or nothing more is commin out. stop the engine. connect the hose and fill it with regualr radiator fluid. let it run for 10k Km then do a flush again, after that your cars cooling systems efficiency should be wayyy better then before.
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