bump for mo info...id tried all the above,cleaning out the iac valve,adj the idle speed,id turn the white thingy underneth the throttle body,etc....still doin it...

 

Had the same problem.I thought it was a sensor,but the water pump was going bad,and not pushing coolant up to the sensors

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fam_mechanic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Had the same problem.I thought it was a sensor,but the water pump was going bad,and not pushing coolant up to the sensors
</TD></TR></TABLE>

i doubt it'll be my water pump...i drove it for 3 days and no over heating problems...just bad idling when its in neutral....

 

I dont know, could be the water pump... Yet I recently changed coolant without the car overheating and nothing has ever caused the car to overheat... Plus it isnt consistant at all, mostly when coming to a stop, stopped, or when I "touch" the gas pedal or throttle cable.
HELP US...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ILoveJDM. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I dont know, could be the water pump... Yet I recently changed coolant without the car overheating and nothing has ever caused the car to overheat... Plus it isnt consistant at all, mostly when coming to a stop, stopped, or when I "touch" the gas pedal or throttle cable.
HELP US...</TD></TR></TABLE>

yea its only when i touch the throttle cable or rev it up when its cold...so anytime after its been rev or touch it wont stop...or right when it get fully warm up, then it'll start to do it on its own...

 

You are still getting excess air into the intake either through a vacuum leak or because coolant isn't getting to the IACV or FITV and they think the engine is still cold. It doesn't do it when the engine is cold because the idle is supposed to exceed 1100 RPM when it is warming up and running on default. Once the ETC reaches temperature the ECU will cut off the fuel injectors when the RPM goes over ~1100 if the throttle plate is closed. The engine starves and the RPM falls and the cycle starts over. The same thing happens whether it is caused by a vacuum leak or the IACV or the FITV or by too much air bleed from the Idle screw being out too far. That's why everyone chimes in with different solutions and swear that they had the exact same problem and this is what fixed it. Just for the heck of it, pull the vacuum line off your fuel pressure regulator and see if the idle increases.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by amckee &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You are still getting excess air into the intake either through a vacuum leak or because coolant isn't getting to the IACV or FITV and they think the engine is still cold. It doesn't do it when the engine is cold because the idle is supposed to exceed 1100 RPM when it is warming up and running on default. Once the ETC reaches temperature the ECU will cut off the fuel injectors when the RPM goes over ~1100 if the throttle plate is closed. The engine starves and the RPM falls and the cycle starts over. The same thing happens whether it is caused by a vacuum leak or the IACV or the FITV or by too much air bleed from the Idle screw being out too far. That's why everyone chimes in with different solutions and swear that they had the exact same problem and this is what fixed it. Just for the heck of it, pull the vacuum line off your fuel pressure regulator and see if the idle increases.</TD></TR></TABLE>

when the car is fully warm, i felt the iac valve and its hot as ****...so i think its one or the other...and yea when i pull one of the vac line off(i.e fule pressure) the idle does increase...i just bought an iac valve so hopfully its the problem...

 

There are way too many people posting that have no idea what they are talking about. Like I said. If its not the coolant temp sensor, then its the IACV. Or you have plugs switched around on the IM.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boo bees &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Like I said. If its not the coolant temp sensor, then its the IACV. Or you have plugs switched around on the IM. </TD></TR></TABLE>You never said. This is your first post. If the ECT sensor was bad the engine would think it was still cold and it would not surge. It would just allow the high idle that is being caused by the real problem. Since it only starts surging once the engine is warm, something must be telling the computer that operating temperature has been reached ; the coolant temp sensor.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boo bees &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sounds like it could be either the IACV (idle air controll valve), or you collant temp sensor. Check those out and get back to us. And are you getting a CEL? (check engine light) If you are then find out what code it is.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Reaaaly, I believe the above was my first post. anyways, I dont want to argue. Thanks for playing tho

And to answer your post, Amckee, Thats why I posted differant solutions, incase I was worng with one.

 

I stand corrected on your # of posts.

 

Mine idles UP and DOWN warm or cold... Did the procedures? Checked power to CTS, IACV, MAP, TPS... All reading good.

 

this is simple It's the fast idle under the throttle Body, ignore the other crap. you can fix it of buy a new one. I just took mine out. I swapped throttle bodies with a LS that did not have one 2000 model. after that my issue was gone. I had Open DP too...horrible.

Or you may get lucky and fix it with a little honda bond. tighten it all the way down and thown honda bond on it should work

 

found something for you
https://honda-tech.com/zero...81222

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HybridcivicLS-T &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">found something for you
https://honda-tech.com/zero...81222 </TD></TR></TABLE>

tried it..dont work...

 

lol I experience this same ******* problem. Did you repace your IAV yet? You said you bought a new one, but you didn't say that you put it on.....you can test for an IM leak or TB leak by spraying the gasket with WD40. Make sure your car is running when you do this and if you hear a chance in the idle, that means you found a leak. ******* hondas and their idle, jesus. I did not bleed my coolant system though.

I replaced vacuum lines, coolant lines, CTS, new throttle body with new map and tps sensor. No fix yet. Also, if you messed with the idle stop screw underneath the throttle body, then you need another throttle body

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B16aSir2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lol I experience this same ******* problem. Did you repace your IAV yet? You said you bought a new one, but you didn't say that you put it on.....you can test for an IM leak or TB leak by spraying the gasket with WD40. Make sure your car is running when you do this and if you hear a chance in the idle, that means you found a leak. ******* hondas and their idle, jesus. I did not bleed my coolant system though.

I replaced vacuum lines, coolant lines, CTS, new throttle body with new map and tps sensor. No fix yet. Also, if you messed with the idle stop screw underneath the throttle body, then you need another throttle body </TD></TR></TABLE>

yea id installed the iac valve and its still surging...id sprayed everything w/ carb cleaner(IM,tb,vac hose,etc...) and doesn't have a change in the idle...so im out of idea...im gonna tried the iat(idle air temperture valve) and see if that hlp...and yes id tighten up the srew thinng in the fitv and it didn't work too...oh and somehow my vac on my boost gauge is reading at 10n/hg...this **** ******* suck *****

 

just solved this on my 92 accord, yes could be different answers but mine
was definite coolant flow. check the total path from tstat housing past the
iac valve , fast idle etc, check the hoses and bottom parts of these valves
for any blockage rust etc,

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbochargeb18c &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...oh and somehow my vac on my boost gauge is reading at 10n/hg...this **** ******* suck ***** </TD></TR></TABLE>Proof that you have a vacuum leak or serious internal engine problems which seems unlikely given the limited scope of your complaint. You may need to get a vacuum hand pump w/guage to find your leak. This way you can pull a vacuum on any diaphram or valve or sensor that vacuum is running to and see if it holds. Vacuum leaks inside these things don't cause hissing sounds and aren't susceptible to the carb spray trick. Have you changed the PCV valve lately? Does your throttle cable have the proper slack? Does that model have an EGR that could be stuck slightly open?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by amckee &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Have you changed the PCV valve lately? Does your throttle cable have the proper slack? Does that model have an EGR that could be stuck slightly open?</TD></TR></TABLE>

pcv is block off because im runing a catch can...and yes my tb cable got a slight slack on it...im not sure bout the egr valve...need to check it tho