Car grinds into third gear.
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Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Sep 2001
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From: Dirty South y0, United States
Whats up guys. My car grinds when shifting into third gear. It only does this when I am really on it, like shifting anywhere above 5000rpms it grinds and anything below that it doesn't. It only does this when shifting into 3rd. What do you guys think it could be? Any ideas would be helpful. Thanks.
Syd
Syd
Could be the synchros...what kind of milaege is on the transmission?
Have you have the fluid flushed recently? That might fix it.
Have you have the fluid flushed recently? That might fix it.
since your sig sez B16 on the way, that means your still running SOHC setup.
Third gear grind will likely be from worn motor/tranny mounts, if not the shifter fork inside the tranny.
Third gear grind will likely be from worn motor/tranny mounts, if not the shifter fork inside the tranny.
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jdm trannys are not worth rebuilding i would be easier and probably cheaper to just get another one and i dont see why a cable tranny would grind more than a hydraulic tranny, also i have a s1 with my b16 and its starting to grind the 3rd also all honda trannys suck there gonna grind eventually.
Welcome to the club! Does the gear at least get there or how bad is the grind.
On mine the 2-3 grinds, but I rip it off anyway but 1-2 won't even engage unless I take my foot (briefly) off the gas & worse as the revs climb so had to get sneady to get around the prob just a little bit.
I know everybody wants there $.02 in, but I would suggest going with Shockproof Ultralite Redline (70w0) for the tranny - that may be enough to help out on the grinds but gotta ask SPECIFICALLYfor it and not just regular Redline MTF fluid...
On mine the 2-3 grinds, but I rip it off anyway but 1-2 won't even engage unless I take my foot (briefly) off the gas & worse as the revs climb so had to get sneady to get around the prob just a little bit.
I know everybody wants there $.02 in, but I would suggest going with Shockproof Ultralite Redline (70w0) for the tranny - that may be enough to help out on the grinds but gotta ask SPECIFICALLYfor it and not just regular Redline MTF fluid...
jdm trannys are not worth rebuilding i would be easier and probably cheaper to just get another one and i dont see why a cable tranny would grind more than a hydraulic tranny, also i have a s1 with my b16 and its starting to grind the 3rd also all honda trannys suck there gonna grind eventually.
Hydro trannies are designed a bit better than cable trannies. That's why they're a bit superior to the cable tranny. But, with cable tranny's, you'll have a better chance with YS1 rather than a Y1/S1/J1 tranny. The YS1 trannies uses a hydro trannies internal design (gears, synchros, diff, etc) but on a cable platform.
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 59
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From: somewhere between the motor and tranny, putting power to the wheels...
im having the same problems. ive got a 95 ex coupe, on the upshift 2-3 grinds unless i let the rpms fall all the way and go EASILY into gear, and on downshift, 3-2 grinds really bad all the time no matter what. oh yeah, i dont have reverse either. and opinions? also, is the si tranny have different gear ratios (ie., should i go to that tranny instaead) or is it tha same as i have now? what trannysshould i look at to replace it or should i have it rebuilt? im also looking at putting in a phantom-grip limited slip unit in it. anyone had good or bad luck with these?
some times when the motor is under load it moves and causes the tranny to grind when shifting. some friends had this problem at the track, the tranny would grind from 2 to 3. put a polyurethane busing in the rear mount and the problem went away. just another option
Do you have difficulty (i.e. - increased effort) going in to all gears?
Does your clutch "take up" and start to move the car with the pedal still very close to the floor?
If these are the case, then your clutch has lost some or all of its "reserve" and is no longer fully disengaging, even with the pedal on the floor. This would be likely due to the hydraulics leaking, or a bad cylinder (master or slave).
When your clutch loses reserve, your synchros have to work much harder than they should -- causing increased wear and premature failure.
[Modified by allenp, 6:03 PM 12/19/2001]
Does your clutch "take up" and start to move the car with the pedal still very close to the floor?
If these are the case, then your clutch has lost some or all of its "reserve" and is no longer fully disengaging, even with the pedal on the floor. This would be likely due to the hydraulics leaking, or a bad cylinder (master or slave).
When your clutch loses reserve, your synchros have to work much harder than they should -- causing increased wear and premature failure.
[Modified by allenp, 6:03 PM 12/19/2001]
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