I've searched and read through over 50 topics on bogging/hesitation but haven't found one like mine. Weird thing is, it happened on my 94 Integra RS as well. I never figured out what it was but ended up selling it.

Anyways, this is a 1993 Civic DX with a B18C1.

The car bogs/hesitates when I'm driving (regular or WOT) after it's been driven for a while or on very hot days (was bogging at the track in 1st and 2nd and it was a very hot day). In the mornings on my way to school, I don't have any problems what so ever. Driving down the highway for 10 minutes and the car still runs fine. It seems to only happen after driving for a long period of time or when the engine is hot.

I've read through posts and found some common areas that cause bogging:
-Spark Plugs
-Fuel Filter
-PCV Valve
-Clogged Cat
-Spark Plug Wires

I have brand new spark plugs (NGK V-Powers), brand new fuel filter (OEM), and the plug wires are pretty new (NGK Blue's). I don't think it could be a clogged cat since it only happens when the car has been driven for a long period of time or is really hot.

The car just basically bogs/hesistates when I give it gas. For example, getting onto the freeway in 4th gear the other day, I had the peddle probably down 15% and I could feel it bogging (wasn't going anywhere really). Pressed to about 50%, still bogging... pressed to 75%... still bogging. Once I get to very high RPMs, it usually goes away though (6k+). And again, this is only when the car has been driven for a long time or is hot.

So, would anyone know what would cause a car to bog only when it's been driven for a long time or when the engine is hot? Doesn't seem to be an overheating problem either since my temperature gauge never goes past the half mark.

EDIT: Another thing. Installed a Fuel Pressure Gauge yesterday and it's reading 50 at idle. It's due to my Walbro fuel pump probably so I'll get a FPR and adjust it down to like 40-45 at idle. I've read/heard cars will bog if the fuel pressure is too high because the car is running too rich... but, my plugs are white (car seems to be running lean). So I don't think it's a problem with my fuel pressure and even if it was, wouldn't it bog all the time and not only when it's warm?

 

I had this EXACT same problem on my 92 GSR. same symptoms you are having. Couldnt figure out what it was for like 6 months. I had no CEL's or nothin. then one day I felt something like pop while I was driving and I got a CEL. then I wasnt able to rev past 3k. Turns out the bogging was caused by my distributor. It hadnt totally busted until I felt that pop so no CELs came on. BUt once I replaced it, car was running like a champ. Hope I was some help and you get your car running like it should. later

 

haha had same problem with my 93 teg w/ b16a. i also could not figure it out but it went away after i had changed the ecu w/ a mugen chipped on that dumped more fuel. not sure if it was an ecu problem or lack of fuel. good luck.....

 

Thanks for the replies. I hope it's not the distributer.

I'm hoping it's the ECU. It's the stock P72 but it's been modified I think. VTEC kicks in at 5,000 (where stock GSR's kick in around 4500 from what I've been told/seen).

I already ordered a new ECU. Chipped P28 with a custom all motor program (from ih8ricerz). Hopefully it will fix the problem for me like it did with yours, raceinspired.

EDIT: Also, got my FPR installed today and turned down the fuel pressure to about 44 at idle (was at 50). Also fixed the timing.. was retarded. Perhaps that might have fixed the problem but I'm not sure yet. No bogging yet but I haven't driven it for a long period of time really.

 

hey 8000krev did your distributor make ticking noises b4 it finally went?

 

I am going through the same hell right now, hopefully someone out there can help

 

I am in the same boat!!! I have a b18c in a 93 cx, but Iam using the d15's injectors since the car is obd1 and engine was obd2. I have some 310's on the way. Does anyone know what size injectors the stock motor has? I added fuel all the way across the board on my vafc and my plugs still read its running lean!! Sorry didnt mean to hijack your post but I think its a fuel problem.

 

Don't worry 'bout the hijacking. Hope you get your problem fixed.

I believe the stock GSR injectors are 240cc?

I was also thinking maybe I have clogged/dirty injectors and was thinking about using some of that injector cleaner (techron) or whatever they sell at schucks... but I'm not too sure about using them. Is there any reason not to use them? I've heard people tell me they work great and others tell me it's a cheap and bad way to clean your injectors.

But anyways, for those experiencing random bogging. Check the following as these seem to be the most common parts that cause bogging:

-Spark Plugs
-Spark Plug Wires
-Distributer Cap
-Rotor
-Fuel Filter

And I've read some posts where the following fixed the problem for some people:

-Fuel Rail
-Clogged Catalytic Converter
-New ECU
-Dirty/clogged Injectors (fuel injector cleaner or take it to a shop that cleans them)
-Too much fuel (fuel pressure too high)

 

no never noticed any ticking. Just a pop that I felt when I punched it and suddenly got my CEL. which was my dizzy. replaced it and never had a problem since

 

You say your other car had the same problem. could this be a factor or am I on a cospearacy kick. What grade gas are you getting and is it from the same gas station every time. Cuz I heard of some gas stations not being up to par on the octain levles and in a high comp motor it is like tring to breath on a hot humid day. just thinkin out of the norm. Chang your chiped ecu and your dizzy I bet the problem goes away.

 

I know the b series motor has 240's but what about the d series??
I rec'd my injectors today so I will let you know if that helped. Also if you think about it the best fuel injector cleaner is fuel in my opinion!!! I try to stay away from additives personally. Sorry here I go tryin to hijack you again

 

I am pretty sure all hondas have the same size injectors except for the preludes, wich are bigger. I have checked my plugs, wires, cap, rotor, ignitor, coil, fuel pressure......i am thinking injectors so i am running some injector cleaner through the system. A buddy of mine swears by an injector cleaner called BG 44K. Its worth a try i guess.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by highcomp &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You say your other car had the same problem. could this be a factor or am I on a cospearacy kick. What grade gas are you getting and is it from the same gas station every time. Cuz I heard of some gas stations not being up to par on the octain levles and in a high comp motor it is like tring to breath on a hot humid day. just thinkin out of the norm. Chang your chiped ecu and your dizzy I bet the problem goes away.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well, on my Integra I use to just get regular (87 octane I think it is). I'm pretty sure I know why my Integra was bogging though. I pulled off the distributer cap and it was pretty much melting. Green liquid stuff and red powder everywhere. The distributer was going out and I think that's what was causing the bogging. But on my hatch, I'm using 92 octane now (b18c1).

I don't think it's a problem with gas though, since I know of many other people who gas up at the same places that I do (cheveron, 76, and shell usuall) and don't experience any problems.

I haven't drove any 20+ minute drives yet but I think the bogging might have went away. I adjust the fuel pressure down to 40 at idle and set the timing back to factory (was retarded by quite a bit).

But yeah, I think the ECU comes in today. Car needs a valve adjustment really bad too so I'll probably do that today as well.

 

all gas stations get there gas from the big gas company's like shell,exxon,etc. so its all about the same...the bog hesitation is from too much fuel,weak spark or air/vacum leaks...along with a lot of little things from spark plugs to ground connections to timing...good luck with your rides

 

Well for anyone that might have been wondering, I'm running the new ECU now and it feels a little better. So far I haven't experienced any sort of bogging/hesitation and it was very hot for Washington yesterday (80's I think it was). So somewhere along adjusting my fuel pressure, setting the timing back to stock, and getting a new ECU, I think my problem has been fixed.

 

Well I installed my 310 injectors in an put my vafc back to factory settings and it's gone car runs so strong now!! I am very happy except my exhaust is broken now!

 

Glad you fixed it. Just wanted to share that I had the same problem. Mines was due to the timing being to retarded. Set it back to 18 btdc and it runs fine.

 

Old thread, but I recently had this issue and wanted to share, since it's also a cause of bog. My 2011 CRV was bogging when hot and pulling away from a standstill. It was hesitating on first acceleration. I ended up replacing exhaust components / cats, but that didn't fix it. Cleaned throttle body, that didn't work. The issue was actually the cold air intake I had installed a few years prior. The issue didn't arise, though, until after I did a valve adjustment and opened up the intake valves slightly, which increased intake air flow into the engine even more. Further, I did the valve adjustment in the winter and the issue didn't come up until it was hot in the summer, so that further perplexed me, but it all made sense in the end. With a cold air intake (CAI), your engine is running too lean. Despite the marketing BS, your car isn't going to run better with a CAI, UNLESS you get it tuned in / you get a professional (assuming you don't have the skill) to re-flash your PCM to handle the new air flow. They have to re-program the MAP sensor inputs. I have another car, honda accord, that I put a CAI in and it never really ran better, until I took it to Xenocron tuning solutions, outside NYC, and they flashed the PCM with Ktuner software. After that, it ran so much better / faster. In the case of my CRV though, Ktuner didn't offer re-flash compatibility, so the solution was to remove the CAI.

Anyway back to the problem with the CRV. What happens is, when your engine is running lean (too much air) it's also running hotter than normal. Too lean = too hot. That issue gets exacerbated by it being hot outside. Throw in factors like sitting idle with the A/C cranked, waiting to pull out into traffic, and you're really heating up the cylinders. When you're engine is running that hot, you start to get engine knock. Your knock sensor will sense this and the ECU will retard the timing to prevent pre-ignition and knock. Essentially, the ECU causes the engine to slow / hesitate for self protection (prevent knock). In my CRV, the ECU was so good at this it never through a code / CEL for knock or anything, so I couldn't tell what was happening at the time. I eventually took it to the honda stealership and they recommended putting the stock intake in. I doubtful, since the CAI wasn't an issue for the first few years after install, but they were right. So what I learned was, don't put a CAI on your car, unless you plan on getting it dyno tuned in. Further, I wouldn't even put a high-flow air filter in. I recommend keeping it all stock, if you aren't getting it tuned.