How am I supposed to do this? If I set my base timing to 12* in Uberdata (it's a y8 motor), I can't advance the distributor enough to match it. It's almost there, maybe 2* off. Should I dremel out the slots in the dizzy so I can turn it more? Is this common?

 

you need to check your physical timing. make sure when you check the physical timing that the mark on the crank pully is the white one lined up not the red.

 

The timing belt isn't off. This is strictly an issue of trying to sync up my timing maps with my distributor. When I set the maps to 12*, I can't make the distributor advance enough to reach 12*.

 

is it an aftermarket dizzy?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Legion &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How am I supposed to do this? If I set my base timing to 12* in Uberdata (it's a y8 motor), I can't advance the distributor enough to match it. It's almost there, maybe 2* off. Should I dremel out the slots in the dizzy so I can turn it more? Is this common?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Every one i've seen like this has been the cam off a tooth.

 

It's not the belt. To test, I even swapped in a factory ECU and moved the dizzy back to the midway point. The timing was spot-on.

The problem seems to be with Uberdata. I've been running these maps for years, but I had my base timing in Uber set to 14* at idle when the actual timing was 12*. So I just had to keep in mind during tuning that all my ignition values were really 2* off.

But now I'm trying to sync them up. I want to subtract from all my ignition maps so that they show 12* at idle. I just can't move the dizzy enough to actually reach 12*. It's close though, maybe 2* off. I think I'm just going to dremel out the dizzy slots. I only need a few more mm of movement.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mmuller &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is it an aftermarket dizzy?</TD></TR></TABLE>

OEM

 

Im no expert, but it has something to do with these things I believe:

1.) stock timing read with timing gun should be 12 degrees with stock ecu (obd2)

2.) The cam gear is off .5 tooth creating a 9.72 degree difference I believe.

3.) stock p2p (obd2 ecu) reads 21.75 degrees idle.

so the ecu says 21.75, and the cam tooth is off .5 which can be figured to be 9.72 or 9.75 degrees off, and maybe thats why the real base timing is 12 degrees. So I think the 9.72 degree needs to be remembered when dealing with a y8 motor. I dont know exactly how the basemap needs to look, but Im starting to get an idea i think. just take a look at pgmfi or hmt, jdavis had a thread on hmt that I think may help you out