cannot set timing right need help
D16y8, stock everything, sent head to get surfaced
Problem im having is setting the distributor adjustment if that's what you call it.
The cam is at 9 and 3oclock (to the surface of the head), the up arrow is pointed up like the manual says.
the crank pulley I removed to line the crank sprocket to the oil pump mark.
So im sure its aligned.
Placed the belt around left to right, when I start the engine it runs well due to the car being cold, but when I put the timing gun to it where the notches are I do not see them, the knotches are actually by the power steering pump.
What could I be doing wrong??
Problem im having is setting the distributor adjustment if that's what you call it.
The cam is at 9 and 3oclock (to the surface of the head), the up arrow is pointed up like the manual says.
the crank pulley I removed to line the crank sprocket to the oil pump mark.
So im sure its aligned.
Placed the belt around left to right, when I start the engine it runs well due to the car being cold, but when I put the timing gun to it where the notches are I do not see them, the knotches are actually by the power steering pump.
What could I be doing wrong??
Sorry but I think that would be a negative value (-35449), or did you accidentally add a phone number in front of the number "06"? 
If you milled the head and used the STOCK cam gear, your cam is retarded a few degrees. It depends on how much was milled. The distributor will also have it's range of adjustment reduced by that amount. Say the cam is 6 degrees retarded - if you could target 8 to 16 degrees before, now you can only target 2 to 10 degrees. Retarding the timing would put the mark further toward the front of the car. The only way to get it back if the distributor is maxed out is to grind the distributor's ears out or get an adjustable cam gear.
IIRC that motor's pulley is marked a 0, 10, 12, and 14 degrees. A d16z6 pulley is marked at 0, 14, 16, and 18. Make sure you have the engine warmed up and the service connector jumped. That should lock it at the base timing your ecu & engine are set for.

If you milled the head and used the STOCK cam gear, your cam is retarded a few degrees. It depends on how much was milled. The distributor will also have it's range of adjustment reduced by that amount. Say the cam is 6 degrees retarded - if you could target 8 to 16 degrees before, now you can only target 2 to 10 degrees. Retarding the timing would put the mark further toward the front of the car. The only way to get it back if the distributor is maxed out is to grind the distributor's ears out or get an adjustable cam gear.
IIRC that motor's pulley is marked a 0, 10, 12, and 14 degrees. A d16z6 pulley is marked at 0, 14, 16, and 18. Make sure you have the engine warmed up and the service connector jumped. That should lock it at the base timing your ecu & engine are set for.
The y8 with a P2P ecu will lock timing at 12*
I have a shaved y8 head and block, it's retarded 4 degrees on a stock cam. you're retarded like 20 degrees, so you're definitely a tooth off.
with a shaved head your cam shouldn't be straight up.
clock the cam CCW a little, get the belt on, clock the cam CW until the front of the belt is tight, relieve the tensioner bolt, clock forward 3 teeth, and tighten.
If your distributor is pinned all the way to the left or right to hit the timing mark, try shifting one cam tooth in the opposite direction.
I have a shaved y8 head and block, it's retarded 4 degrees on a stock cam. you're retarded like 20 degrees, so you're definitely a tooth off.
with a shaved head your cam shouldn't be straight up.
clock the cam CCW a little, get the belt on, clock the cam CW until the front of the belt is tight, relieve the tensioner bolt, clock forward 3 teeth, and tighten.
If your distributor is pinned all the way to the left or right to hit the timing mark, try shifting one cam tooth in the opposite direction.
The y8 with a P2P ecu will lock timing at 12*
I have a shaved y8 head and block, it's retarded 4 degrees on a stock cam. you're retarded like 20 degrees, so you're definitely a tooth off.
with a shaved head your cam shouldn't be straight up.
clock the cam CCW a little, get the belt on, clock the cam CW until the front of the belt is tight, relieve the tensioner bolt, clock forward 3 teeth, and tighten.
If your distributor is pinned all the way to the left or right to hit the timing mark, try shifting one cam tooth in the opposite direction.
I have a shaved y8 head and block, it's retarded 4 degrees on a stock cam. you're retarded like 20 degrees, so you're definitely a tooth off.
with a shaved head your cam shouldn't be straight up.
clock the cam CCW a little, get the belt on, clock the cam CW until the front of the belt is tight, relieve the tensioner bolt, clock forward 3 teeth, and tighten.
If your distributor is pinned all the way to the left or right to hit the timing mark, try shifting one cam tooth in the opposite direction.
Sorry but I think that would be a negative value (-35449), or did you accidentally add a phone number in front of the number "06"? 
If you milled the head and used the STOCK cam gear, your cam is retarded a few degrees. It depends on how much was milled. The distributor will also have it's range of adjustment reduced by that amount. Say the cam is 6 degrees retarded - if you could target 8 to 16 degrees before, now you can only target 2 to 10 degrees. Retarding the timing would put the mark further toward the front of the car. The only way to get it back if the distributor is maxed out is to grind the distributor's ears out or get an adjustable cam gear.
IIRC that motor's pulley is marked a 0, 10, 12, and 14 degrees. A d16z6 pulley is marked at 0, 14, 16, and 18. Make sure you have the engine warmed up and the service connector jumped. That should lock it at the base timing your ecu & engine are set for.

If you milled the head and used the STOCK cam gear, your cam is retarded a few degrees. It depends on how much was milled. The distributor will also have it's range of adjustment reduced by that amount. Say the cam is 6 degrees retarded - if you could target 8 to 16 degrees before, now you can only target 2 to 10 degrees. Retarding the timing would put the mark further toward the front of the car. The only way to get it back if the distributor is maxed out is to grind the distributor's ears out or get an adjustable cam gear.
IIRC that motor's pulley is marked a 0, 10, 12, and 14 degrees. A d16z6 pulley is marked at 0, 14, 16, and 18. Make sure you have the engine warmed up and the service connector jumped. That should lock it at the base timing your ecu & engine are set for.
The y8 with a P2P ecu will lock timing at 12*
I have a shaved y8 head and block, it's retarded 4 degrees on a stock cam. you're retarded like 20 degrees, so you're definitely a tooth off.
with a shaved head your cam shouldn't be straight up.
clock the cam CCW a little, get the belt on, clock the cam CW until the front of the belt is tight, relieve the tensioner bolt, clock forward 3 teeth, and tighten.
If your distributor is pinned all the way to the left or right to hit the timing mark, try shifting one cam tooth in the opposite direction.
I have a shaved y8 head and block, it's retarded 4 degrees on a stock cam. you're retarded like 20 degrees, so you're definitely a tooth off.
with a shaved head your cam shouldn't be straight up.
clock the cam CCW a little, get the belt on, clock the cam CW until the front of the belt is tight, relieve the tensioner bolt, clock forward 3 teeth, and tighten.
If your distributor is pinned all the way to the left or right to hit the timing mark, try shifting one cam tooth in the opposite direction.
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