i'm about to buy a 99 jdmb20 for 700 and the guy is also selling a mint 99 ls for the same price,i'm running a 00 b16(no torque)right now in my eg.so which one should i buy,btw how can i identify the yr of a jdm motor.i'm most likely to do n/a with pistons and head work

 

go with the ls. because the b20 has the one peice sleeves so you would need to get it resleeved if you plan one actually building it. even to like 200hp. but a ls can hold more on its stock bottom end.


even though any stock bottom will not last a real long time with alot of power.

 

B20 hands down.

sleeves are not a problem if you have it tuned right.

 

go ls

 

B20.

Theres no replacement for displacement, and the b20 has a larger stock bore piston than the LS which can yield more ponies

 

B20 with some high comp pistons and a balanced bottom end. You'll do good. Im

 

stock sleeves are plenty strong on a b20

h-t member chad had a b20TEC that put down over 220whp with stock sleeves bored to 84.5mm. he now has another one that has the exact same thing done to it that is awaiting my car to become chads so it can be installed. chad will be putting ITB's on it and i fully expect it to put down around 230whp.

i say if you plan to build it (and part of a correct build is tuning) go with a b20 hands down.

i am a LS junkie and i am telling you this
i am in the process of building a all motor LS with ITB's
i will have a built engine running ~12:1 compression and i will be lucky if i put down 200

you do the math

 

b20, go to theoldone.com stock sleeves on a NA motor 300whp! My boy has one it pulls so much

 

i think it is all up to you!
both botton ends have there down fall.
but bigger is better THAT IS WHY YOU ARE DOINGS THIS RIGHT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

b20, i have one and i can beat my friends ls/vtec.

 

b20 with some girdles so that there isnt to much vibration during high rpm on the bottom end and youll be ready to rock!

 

Does your friend have, the same build as you? And the same bolt ons?

 

you can get longer rods and pistons with raised wrist pins to add a little correction to the rod to stroke ratio and have a rev happy engine

contact endyn they can help you out with it

 

turbo= lsvtec ls sleeves are 11mm
all mota= crvtec b20 sleeves are 9mm

jus my opinion though

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Quitripin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">b20, go to theoldone.com stock sleeves on a NA motor 300whp! My boy has one it pulls so much</TD></TR></TABLE>

link please!!!
id like to see a 300 all motor b20, vtec or not

 

b20 all the way. i have a b20z2, jdm b16a and im beasting lsvtecs/gsr's. More importently if you go b20 make sure you put z10 bars in; off the line is just no joke w/ all that toq. just a few things im running is:
PP head, 3 angel valve job, itr cams, wiseco 12:1 pistons, ibspec ultralite rods, arp headstuds, itr springs/retainers, skunk2 manifold, jdm 4-1 dc headers, gsr trans w/ LSD, exedy stage 2 racing clutch, z10 bars, apex n1 exhaust, skunk p28 ecu. i rev up to 8800 and the stock sleeves are holding just fine. the trans gives me more problem then the motor does.

this car is very streetable/trackable

if your going NA the stock b20 sleeves are more then fine. just tune it right and make sure those rings are sealed right.

good luck mate.

 

not to get off topic, but you think z10s are needed on ls/vtecs? not as much torque as b20 but still with 12:5 to its gonna be jumpy huh?

 

z10 bars are great for any aplication. z10 will cut 90% of your wheel hop off the line thus giveing you a better launch and giveing you much much better 60 times. they basicly glue your wheels to the floor so when you have high RPM launches your wheels arnt jumping around like tigger.

 

you guys forgot about pistons, yes b20 will make more power, but if you are on a budget you gonna have to stick to the low compression unless you mill the head...to achieve higher compression with the b20 you gonna need aftermarket pistons.
For the b18a/b you have a variety of oem pistons to choose from to achieve higher compression and oem durability.

 

i know many people that have a stock USDM b20z2 bottom end and a worked head and put down 200whp+ if your going b20 use a b16 head, the flow is alot better then the GSR heads.

 

if u are looking to get a ls bottom I can get u one for about half the price w/o pistons and rods


and well I got the ls block sleeved to 85mm so I got the best of both worlds??

very fast bro but comes with probs can tell u now

if not tuned right

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by roc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i'm about to buy a 99 jdmb20 for 700 and the guy is also selling a mint 99 ls for the same price,i'm running a 00 b16(no torque)right now in my eg.so which one should i buy,btw how can i identify the yr of a jdm motor.i'm most likely to do n/a with pistons and head work</TD></TR></TABLE>

okay first of all, what car is it going into? Second you say you are getting the b20 for 700. I assume that is only the LONG BLOCK. Next you must buy mounts, and depending on what car it is going into might need some other slight fabracations to the bay. Next you will need to get a ECU (also remember that crv's did NOT come 5 spd) so after your knowledge of that then you will need to get wire harness (do a little converting) I actually dont know what tranny you could use with this. I am not really into B series that much but I am guessing its simalar to the D. Next step is getting the axles. b20 swap is not cheap, if you plan to spend a pretty penny, by all means go with the b20. If you are on a buget for the time being go with the LS just to drop in there, buy the b20, fully build the bottom and top end (also somewhere in building get the extra **** you need like ECU, harness, tranny, axles, and some other stuff). Then once the b20 is built drop it in and boost the hell out of it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SleepyHF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

okay first of all, what car is it going into? Second you say you are getting the b20 for 700. I assume that is only the LONG BLOCK. Next you must buy mounts, and depending on what car it is going into might need some other slight fabracations to the bay. Next you will need to get a ECU (also remember that crv's did NOT come 5 spd) so after your knowledge of that then you will need to get wire harness (do a little converting) I actually dont know what tranny you could use with this. I am not really into B series that much but I am guessing its simalar to the D. Next step is getting the axles. b20 swap is not cheap, if you plan to spend a pretty penny, by all means go with the b20. If you are on a buget for the time being go with the LS just to drop in there, buy the b20, fully build the bottom and top end (also somewhere in building get the extra **** you need like ECU, harness, tranny, axles, and some other stuff). Then once the b20 is built drop it in and boost the hell out of it </TD></TR></TABLE>


hey homie i was just wondering if you read
he already has a b16 so he has the head and the ecu, the mounts, the flywheel, clutch, axles the only thing he will need to do is build the b20 or ls and add an oil feed line then once he is ready to do the swap he will have to drill and tap a hole for oil and plug the vtec oil feed hole on the mating surface of hte head. also he can go cheaper by getting the eagle ls/vtec dowel pins so he does not have to get even more work done to the head

to me this would be a very easy swap since he already has everything he needs

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dirtyd463 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


hey homie i was just wondering if you read
he already has a b16 so he has the head and the ecu, the mounts, the flywheel, clutch, axles the only thing he will need to do is build the b20 or ls and add an oil feed line then once he is ready to do the swap he will have to drill and tap a hole for oil and plug the vtec oil feed hole on the mating surface of hte head. also he can go cheaper by getting the eagle ls/vtec dowel pins so he does not have to get even more work done to the head
to me this would be a very easy swap since he already has everything he needs</TD></TR></TABLE>

eagle dowal pins pwn!