Well after reading thoroughly the guide on c-speedracing.com, I have a pretty good idea of how to install cams. Never done it before, only mod i've done to my car was aem cai. The instructions and everything seem simple enough for me to do at home...I only have a few questions though. There were terms in the article that i didn't know. TDC, what is that?

If i don't change my ecu, my rev limiter will be 8200rpms (or was it 8100rpms?). With that in mind, do i need to change out my valve springs? Lastly, my vtec engagement will be stock 4400rpms. Is that ok? Will i feel any bumpy changeover?

I do plan on changing my valve springs when i get a new ecu or a chipped OBD 1 ecu. To install valve springs, do you need to remove the head? If so, is that a relatively simple task?

Current mod list:
aem cai/JDM 4-1 header(this sat.)/Carsound cat (this sat.)/Apex N1 cat-back (this sat.)

I'm just basically wanting to have something to play with. I heard that with ITR cams my car will feel much faster and will rev much quicker to redline. For now that'll be ok for me, but in the summer i plan on getting valve springs/ecu/vtec controller/camgears/and dyno tuning.

Edit: Forgot to list camgears for the summer.



[Modified by B-18C1, 2:13 PM 12/31/2001]

 

TDC=Top Dead Center

And as long as the ECU is stock,I believe the electronic rev limiter should take care of any over-revving.

IMO,whenever aftermarket cams are use,it's always a good idea to upgrade the valve train. I personally like the dual spring more so than any other,very nice,I have them in my Prelude,titanium retainers are a good addition as well,but the use of titanium is an overkill in most cars,IMNSHO.

Hope that helps.

Knight

 

Ohh...Also I was wondering where i could get honda bond(from the dealer?) and assembly lube?

 

I don't think I ever used that persay,but the regular stuff from http://www.AutoZone.com or O'Reiley's.com should be sufficient.

It is kind of like them telling you to ONLY use Honda Power Steering fluid,I don't and I've NEVER had a PS problem.

But I'm sure the dealer has it if you are just playing it safe.

 

you dont need to take off the head to install the valve springs, you can hook up an air compressior threw your spark plug holes and fill the cyl. up w. air, so your valves wont drop.

 

interesting. Any instructions on how to do this or know where i can find out?

 

Some aftermarket valve springs have to be installed with the head off because u need to cut the spring perch. IMHO, run the new cams until you're ready to make ecu changes. Pull the head and have it freshened up at a good machine shop and install new springs. Not any easy task for a rookie to change springs while head is on the car.

 

thats what i was thinking. The thought of me trying to do that with the head off hurts my brain. I still have alot to learn.

 

That, and if you screw up, you could drop a valve into the cylinder... hehe.. then the head HAS to come off

 

How much does this process usually run if i take it toa shop?? I have CTR cams, ITR valvetrain, and a Mugen head gasket, just waiting to be installed. I just nee to know the cost of labor. any ballpark figures for price range??

 

cams can be pretty cheap to put in. ranging from about 75-120 dollars usually. For the vavletrain, it just matters how the person installs them. Usually they like to remove the head instead of using a compressor. Then they can charge you over 200 bucks for that.

 

Hondabond is worth the $5 you've got to spend on it. One tube will last you forever....well, lets say that I've gone through 1-1/4 tubes in 10 years. THat's countless valve cover gaskets, cam seals, tranny rebuilds.....