i have a built h22a which is still on an engine stand. i just finished putting an h23 tensioner setup on it so it has a pulley tensioner instead of the hydraulic tensioner. so i put the timing belt and balancer belt on, and i turned the crank over to tension the timing belt while the adjuster bolt was loose (this is how you tension the belt). then i found a spot where i liked how tight it was, and tightened the adjuster bolt. but as i turn the crank, (with everything tight), the belt gets looser in some areas at some part of the crank rotations than at other parts. for example, when at TDC, the belt will be tight on top of the cam pulleys, and at 90 degrees after TDC, the belt will be a little looser on top of the cam pulleys. not loose enough to come off, just looser than before.

is this normal or is something wrong?

 

Hmmm. Not certain, but it doesn't seem right. Can you put the original tensioner back on -- just to see how that one behaves?

 

actually, i had the original one on before i got the h23 tensioner, and it didn't do this. someone on importreview said this happened to his b16 and he just said "fudge it" and has been driving like that for the past year and a half. i really don't want to do that because this is a full race motor.

 

yea and if you break a belt you break alot more
i would put the old tensioner back on.

 

are you sure you're not just turning the engine the wrong way?

 

i'm sure i'm turning the crank the right way (counter-clockwise), and i'd rather not put the hydraulic tensioner back on. they don't work very well with high hp h22's.

anyone else have any ideas?

 

mines like that on my h23

 

has it always been like that? and it runs fine?

 

yeh and makes some poo poo of noise when the timing belt cover is off

 

what kind of noise?

 

a loud as flaping noise at about 1000-1200rpms then when u rev it it stops

just a loud belt flap

 

Do you have both springs installed that attach to the H23 tensioner?

This way is a little different than I told you the first time, you must have a lot of slack.

1) Put the #1 piston at TDC.
2) Loosen the tensioner nut 2/3's of a turn.
3) Tighten tensioner nut.
4) Rotate crankshaft 3 teeth on the cam gears.
5) Reloosen tensioner nut to create tension on the belt.
6) Tighten the tensioner nut.

 

there are supposed to be 2 springs on the h23 tensioner pulley?

 

Before I go making any recomendations, does this layout reflect that of a B series motor?


Jason

 

Make sure the slack is after the tensioner and before intake cam gear, before tightening the tensioner.

 

Yes! Part # 19 and part # 12 on this diagram.

 

Part #19 basically replaces the auto tensioner.

 

oh yeah i have both of those. i thought you meant 2 springs go to the si tensioner pulley itself. the other spring (one on the right) is for the balancer belt tensioner.