Hi, first let me ask that only people with experience respond to this thread as I am very concerned about what to do with this. 3 years ago I completed my H22 build, but since I was already making 366whp on the stock one, I decided to wait until the stock one blew up before I put in the built one. Long story short, this stock h22 lasted over 3 years of 366whp and never blew up! Still leaks down less than 5% and has perfect compression. I have decided to put in the built one regardless, and now have realized that this thing has been sitting for over three years, and was afraid that there would be rust on the iron sleeves. I had a look and saw that everything looks clean. Now what should I do? I was thinking that I should go over everything again with assembly lube, and was also told to pour a capfull of marvel mystery oil down each spark plug hole... Please let me know what would be the best way to make sure everything will be ok. If it matters the engine is jdm h22 with darton sleeves, weisco 9.5:1 89mm pistons, BC Stroker kit, P&P head w/ titanium valvetrain, BC stage 2 turbo cams. Thanks so much for your help!

 

i would just put a cap full of oil down the plug holes like you said. maybe rotate it by hand once or twice and then just fire it up. im sure it will be fine.

 

What did you originally use for assembly lube? I would be hesitant to use that engine without proper relubrication after sitting that long if you used some sub-par assembly lube initially. I always use Lucas Assembly lube since it stays in its natural state (so to speak) for a long time. I hate to say, if it were me, I'd at least take off the oil pan and get the rod and crank bearings as good as i could. Also take off the valve cover and get the cam lobes good. Now, you can just risk throwing it in and starting it up, as it will only take several seconds for the oi pump to get oil up in there, but if it's bone dry, you risk damaging the engine.

(note: I'm new at this Honda stuff, I'm a Ford guy, but my point still stands! Good Luck!)

 

thanks guys... Im still open to more suggestions, but I would like to add another question, the engine has all arp bolts including head studs. When, or do they need to be retorqued? When do I set the valve lash? Whats the best oil for break-in?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by posthuman63t &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Now, you can just risk throwing it in and starting it up, as it will only take several seconds for the oi pump to get oil up in there, but if it's bone dry, you risk damaging the engine.

(note: I'm new at this Honda stuff, I'm a Ford guy, but my point still stands! Good Luck!)</TD></TR></TABLE>

i always unplug the dizzy/fuel stuff and crank the motor a few times to build oil pressure before i start any fresh build

 

Blinkx, that is the smart way to do it always. But a freshly built engine that just had been lubed maybe a month or less before install will still retain a well-lubed surface. Now compare that to something that has been sitting for years.

Here's my way of looking at it. You spend the time and the money building an engine, you dont want to risk running lube free and damaging al the work you've done. Spend a little more time to re-lube main components, and have that extra assurance that something won't go wrong.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by posthuman63t &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Here's my way of looking at it. You spend the time and the money building an engine, you dont want to risk running lube free and damaging al the work you've done. Spend a little more time to re-lube main components, and have that extra assurance that something won't go wrong. </TD></TR></TABLE>

true, 3 years is a loooong time, i have no idea how long assembly lube stays in its original form. i would pop the valve, remove the cam caps, if the cams still had a good mount of lube on them i would assume the crank/rods do too and just start that **** up after building some oil pressure

 

the rust on the cylinder walls shouldnt bee too bad if it was in a bag. i had a built engine sitting for over a year, i put a capfull of atf (has lots of detergents in it) each spark plug hole rotaed it a few times than started it up, ran good after that for 2 years w/o any bearing/cam problems

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oneludesol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks guys... Im still open to more suggestions, but I would like to add another question, the engine has all arp bolts including head studs. When, or do they need to be retorqued? When do I set the valve lash? Whats the best oil for break-in?</TD></TR></TABLE>

You set the valves before you start the engine.

On a B series you don't generally need to re- torque anything. On a D series, I have found and a lot of us D guy's will re-torque the head after 10 heat cycles, a few times until none of the nuts move.

Yes, prime the oil system with the sparks plugs removed & fuel shut off. You don't want to build compression until you know you have oil pressure.

Hint it can take up to a minute to get oil pressure the first time.

Another hint, after a week or so go back and make sure all the external bolts are tight. You'll find some things of loosen up, like oil pan bolts, motor mounts, just about any bolt you can get to easily. You'll want to do that again before winter gets here.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1992Si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Another hint, after a week or so go back and make sure all the external bolts are tight. You'll find some things of loosen up, like oil pan bolts, motor mounts, just about any bolt you can get to easily. You'll want to do that again before winter gets here.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

lol so true, my friend came over to show me his K swap, it went like this:

friend: bro check out my mad tyte k swap!!
blinx9900: nice nice, but why then hell are three of your trans bolts backed out all the way??
friend: do you have a wrench lol.

 

I've had some engines sit a while, never run, and the main issues are the rod/crank bearings and valvetrain. I usually make sure a full quart is dumped over the cams (VC removed), then be possitive there is lube on the bearings. I do my best to prime the oil pump (with it sideways, dump oil right into the oil galley via filter hole), spin it a few times and get some oil moving. THen crank till I get pressure, then light it up. My experience with ARP's is that they don't back out unless you only torque them once. I like to torque them in & out 3 times with properly cleaned/lubed surfaces, then its set. Very few have ever loosened on me, and if done right, you won't have a single backed out bolt or seal leak.

If its not broke in, then even a little rust won't hurt the walls. Your rings actually knock down the ridges when they seat, and the iron is harder than rust. Make a checklist, get it all ready, then let it rip.

 

the valve lash will be alot easier to set before it in the car, but as long as its done before start up,

when it comes to priming your new motor with oil i would take the VC off and dump some oil on cams but before that i would take off the oil pan and check torque on everything and take a good look around, if you take off the oil pick up too (2 10mm bolts and 2 10 mm nuts) get some vaseline and pack some of it in the hole leading into the pump, and replace the oil pick up tube, i know this sounds crazy but i know from experience that it works, the oil pump will prime its self immediatly and the vaseline dissapates immediatly, i have done this when replacing pumps, and several different motor builds and has always done me well....