building an ls/vtec, some ???'s
Well i am building an ls/vtec in my hatch heres the parts I already have.
gsr head
b18a1 block
ctr pistons
shotpeened rods
arp b18a/b rod bolts
arp b18a/b headstuds
gsr oil/water pump & timing belt
all new bearings
skunk2 valvetrain retainers/ springs
skunk2 stage2 cams
Everything is going to balaced this weekend, and i will get a pNp within the next month. Well my question is i have been hearing that two of the ls headstuds are going to be to long. Is it really that long? Also what headgasket do you guys reccomend? I am looking to get the most compression out of this, octane is not going to be the issue.
Thanx
Mike
[Modified by dwn-shift, 4:48 AM 3/23/2003]
gsr head
b18a1 block
ctr pistons
shotpeened rods
arp b18a/b rod bolts
arp b18a/b headstuds
gsr oil/water pump & timing belt
all new bearings
skunk2 valvetrain retainers/ springs
skunk2 stage2 cams
Everything is going to balaced this weekend, and i will get a pNp within the next month. Well my question is i have been hearing that two of the ls headstuds are going to be to long. Is it really that long? Also what headgasket do you guys reccomend? I am looking to get the most compression out of this, octane is not going to be the issue.
Thanx
Mike
[Modified by dwn-shift, 4:48 AM 3/23/2003]
three layer for safety. best way to add compression is pistons otherwise you are affecting reliability and the ever so popular with lsvtecs....oil leaks. so just get a stock ls head gasket slap it on there with the appropriate dowel holes and ur set.
You're going to need to machine the rod caps for the new rod bolts.. chamfered I guess. Threw me for a loop when I was building mine, had to stop and take the stuff out to the machine shop for a day or two.
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b16a headbolts work fine
b16 or LS headgasket work fine
just make sure to torque everything to specs. i wouldnt shave the head more than .30-.40 thou..
b16 or LS headgasket work fine
just make sure to torque everything to specs. i wouldnt shave the head more than .30-.40 thou..
i dont think i'd mill the head at all, you should clay before also. ctr pistons with stage2 cams, that can be pretty close. also, you might want to consider a girdle for the bottom end for the high rev's, are you using arp rod bolts too?
i dont think i'd mill the head at all, you should clay before also. ctr pistons with stage2 cams, that can be pretty close. also, you might want to consider a girdle for the bottom end for the high rev's, are you using arp rod bolts too?
Mike
I hope u have oil squirters from a GSR....
I have the oil squiteres. To get he gsr girdle to work with the ls block i either need to gsr main caps or i have to get the main caps on the ls drilled to get the dowel pin, i am correct or i do i need maching regardless if i have the gsr main caps.
just to be on the safe side you should install the pistons in the block.my friend found out that the ctr pistons created positive piston to deck clearence.when using the gsr head it doesnt have the relief in the bowl of the head. just something to check before installing the head. piston to head contact is a bad thing!!!!! good luck
You want to use the LS studs simply because they are longer, and will hold better to prevent any leaks.
You want to use the LS studs simply because they are longer, and will hold better to prevent any leaks.
b16a headbolts work fine
b16 or LS headgasket work fine
just make sure to torque everything to specs. i wouldnt shave the head more than .30-.40 thou..
b16a headbolts work fine
b16 or LS headgasket work fine
just make sure to torque everything to specs. i wouldnt shave the head more than .30-.40 thou..
Torque ARP headstuds to 66ft/lbs w/ the ARP moly lube, if u are using motor oil, torque to 80ft/lbs
i dont think i'd mill the head at all, you should clay before also. ctr pistons with stage2 cams, that can be pretty close. also, you might want to consider a girdle for the bottom end for the high rev's, are you using arp rod bolts too?
I hope u have oil squirters from a GSR....
Dumb question....but you only need GSR squirters for GSR head right? For example b16 head uses b16 squirters??
Im very curious as to where u people get your information.
You want to use the LS studs simply because they are longer, and will hold better to prevent any leaks.
b16a headbolts work fine
b16 or LS headgasket work fine
just make sure to torque everything to specs. i wouldnt shave the head more than .30-.40 thou..
Okay, totally wrong, the LS head is designed different so it requires 2 longer studs. USE THE GSR studs, the LS studs are the wrong ones, B16 studs are shorter and have a GREATER risk of failing then GSR studs
Torque ARP headstuds to 66ft/lbs w/ the ARP moly lube, if u are using motor oil, torque to 80ft/lbs
i dont think i'd mill the head at all, you should clay before also. ctr pistons with stage2 cams, that can be pretty close. also, you might want to consider a girdle for the bottom end for the high rev's, are you using arp rod bolts too?
Have you ever clayed a motor before? I doubt it... A girdle is a total waste, dont waste your time nor money unless ur reving higher then 9k. As stated in his original post, he is using arp rod bolts.
I hope u have oil squirters from a GSR....
total waste, buy a GSR block if u want oil squirters, or buy some fordged pistons so we cant even argue about this.
Dumb question....but you only need GSR squirters for GSR head right? For example b16 head uses b16 squirters??
This is the stupidest thing i have ever heard, do u know what the oil squirters do? They are right below the cylinder and they point in a very exact position to spray oil right underneath the pistons to cool the pistons down. Hence the lack of needed them for forged pistons. IT has NOTHING to do with the head, and the oil squirters are identical. They are more commonly known in heavy deisel motors, where high compression creates alot of heat.
Who brought the cool kid?
Im very curious as to where u people get your information.
b16a headbolts work fine
b16 or LS headgasket work fine
just make sure to torque everything to specs. i wouldnt shave the head more than .30-.40 thou..
Okay, totally wrong, the LS head is designed different so it requires 2 longer studs. USE THE GSR studs, the LS studs are the wrong ones, B16 studs are shorter and have a GREATER risk of failing then GSR studs
Torque ARP headstuds to 66ft/lbs w/ the ARP moly lube, if u are using motor oil, torque to 80ft/lbs
i dont think i'd mill the head at all, you should clay before also. ctr pistons with stage2 cams, that can be pretty close. also, you might want to consider a girdle for the bottom end for the high rev's, are you using arp rod bolts too?
Have you ever clayed a motor before? I doubt it... A girdle is a total waste, dont waste your time nor money unless ur reving higher then 9k. As stated in his original post, he is using arp rod bolts.
I hope u have oil squirters from a GSR....
total waste, buy a GSR block if u want oil squirters, or buy some fordged pistons so we cant even argue about this.
Dumb question....but you only need GSR squirters for GSR head right? For example b16 head uses b16 squirters??
This is the stupidest thing i have ever heard, do u know what the oil squirters do? They are right below the cylinder and they point in a very exact position to spray oil right underneath the pistons to cool the pistons down. Hence the lack of needed them for forged pistons. IT has NOTHING to do with the head, and the oil squirters are identical. They are more commonly known in heavy deisel motors, where high compression creates alot of heat.
Who brought the cool kid?
Im very curious as to where u people get your information.
Ok so let me get this right i plan on revving to 9k max, so you do think the block girdle and oil squirters won't be that important. None the less, i have already have gsr squirters and a girdle. I also switched my studs from ls to gsr.
Thanks
Mike
Thanks
Mike
You want to use the LS studs simply because they are longer, and will hold better to prevent any leaks.
thats funny i always thought the GSR studs were longer...
thats funny i always thought the GSR studs were longer...
[Modified by Dark_Sol, 4:16 PM 3/26/2003]
B16A and LS studs are the same length. I have compared them both on my own, aswell as comparing them to B18C studs, which are about 1/4" longer than the B16A/LS head bolts.
um, are u sure, because the LS head is different and the 2 middle bolts are longer then the rest, as you said u compared them to a b16, and they were the same length, thats impossible because the b16 motors have the same length rod bolts, and the LS doesnt, perhaps you were comparing hte wrong ones.
edit: When I get home today I will take some pictures and compare them for you.
[Modified by irev210, 3:04 AM 3/27/2003]
edit: When I get home today I will take some pictures and compare them for you.
[Modified by irev210, 3:04 AM 3/27/2003]


